Been thinking about something...
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Orange County, CA
W124's
Been thinking about something...
Lately I've been wondering if I should replaced the factory shims I have right now and replaced them with new ones. Does anyone think I should do it? I don't even know what these shims do. So perhaps someone can educate me. 
Also, I'm really curious about my cars idling characteristics right now. It's running lower than it should be. In drive it's around 500-600 rpm...sometimes will drop below and the car will knock at a stop. How could I go about getting this fix or what could be the problem. I'm sure there is one.
Also, I'm really curious about my cars idling characteristics right now. It's running lower than it should be. In drive it's around 500-600 rpm...sometimes will drop below and the car will knock at a stop. How could I go about getting this fix or what could be the problem. I'm sure there is one.
Last edited by CDP; Apr 9, 2005 at 12:06 AM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 193
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From: Miami, FL
ex 300E driver
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Have you cleaned that idle control valve?
When was the last time you did the cap and rotor?
Is you throttle cable tight enough?
One of those might be the culprit.
BTW: My car idled at 500 rpm in drive, but never stumbled. 500-750 rpm is the normal range.
Have you cleaned that idle control valve?
When was the last time you did the cap and rotor?
Is you throttle cable tight enough?
One of those might be the culprit.
BTW: My car idled at 500 rpm in drive, but never stumbled. 500-750 rpm is the normal range.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Orange County, CA
W124's
Originally Posted by mike690003
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Have you cleaned that idle control valve?
When was the last time you did the cap and rotor?
Is you throttle cable tight enough?
One of those might be the culprit.
BTW: My car idled at 500 rpm in drive, but never stumbled. 500-750 rpm is the normal range.
Have you cleaned that idle control valve?
When was the last time you did the cap and rotor?
Is you throttle cable tight enough?
One of those might be the culprit.
BTW: My car idled at 500 rpm in drive, but never stumbled. 500-750 rpm is the normal range.
How do I clean the idle control valve?
What exactly is the cap and rotor?
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 193
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From: Miami, FL
ex 300E driver
OH NOW YOU'VE MADE ME MAD!! 
Just kidding!
I cleaned the idle control valve on my car by removing it (you have to remove the air cleaner housing on my car, a 1987 300E, to access the valve) and squirting a bunch of carburetor cleaner into it and shaking it repeatedly (cover the ends with your fingers while shaking it). If you can hear valve inside freely moving back and forth when you shake it, you probably don't need to replace it. If it is dirty, it should be moving more freely after you clean it.
Pic of it:
Anyone correct me if I am wrong here:
The cap a.k.a distributor cap is where the ignition wires plug into. The distributor rotor is located underneath the cap. The rotor spins, when the engine is running and makes contact with little metallic parts in the rotor. That in turn makes electricity, which provides current to the ignition wires. The current is then transferred into the spark plugs and spark is created.
Just kidding!
I cleaned the idle control valve on my car by removing it (you have to remove the air cleaner housing on my car, a 1987 300E, to access the valve) and squirting a bunch of carburetor cleaner into it and shaking it repeatedly (cover the ends with your fingers while shaking it). If you can hear valve inside freely moving back and forth when you shake it, you probably don't need to replace it. If it is dirty, it should be moving more freely after you clean it.
Pic of it:
Anyone correct me if I am wrong here:
The cap a.k.a distributor cap is where the ignition wires plug into. The distributor rotor is located underneath the cap. The rotor spins, when the engine is running and makes contact with little metallic parts in the rotor. That in turn makes electricity, which provides current to the ignition wires. The current is then transferred into the spark plugs and spark is created.
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Orange County, CA
W124's
Thanks for the info!
I think I possibly might just need a tune up. Do you agree? God knows when the last time was.
Just wondering if thats a easy DYI job if I just buy the kit.
I think I possibly might just need a tune up. Do you agree? God knows when the last time was.
Just wondering if thats a easy DYI job if I just buy the kit.
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Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 193
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From: Miami, FL
ex 300E driver
The tune up on the 300E is easy. The inline six gives ample room to access and remove/replace parts. The tune up will take you about 2-3 hours of a Saturday morning to complete, that includes a few breaks and beers. I recently did the tune up to my Monte Carlo, and replacing the plugs and wires on that 3800 motor took me about 3 hours!
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,816
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From: Orange County, CA
W124's
Is there anything important I should know when doing the install. If I buy the hit...it should cost around 250-300 which includes the following:
103 Engine Power Tuning Guide
Bosch Ignition Wire Set
6 Bosch Spark Plugs
Bosch Distributor Cap and Gasket
Bosch Distributor Rotor
Bosch Spark Plug Gap Gauge - a cool tool
Suppressor Housing (original is always cracked)
Cosmetic Distributor Cover
Ignition Wire Holder (plastic cover)
Vacuum Hose for routing
Spark Plug Installation Hose Tool
6 Tie Wraps for Vacuum Line
Special Allen Tool for Distributor Cap
Allen Wrench for Mixture Adjustment COMGKU
Sound good? Knowing me, I probably won't have a idea on what to do. I just hope this will improve the car overall and possibly fix that idling problem.
I think a tune up is a good investment right now, since the fact that sometimes I need to start my car two times.
oh, is the cap and rotor in this picture?
103 Engine Power Tuning Guide
Bosch Ignition Wire Set
6 Bosch Spark Plugs
Bosch Distributor Cap and Gasket
Bosch Distributor Rotor
Bosch Spark Plug Gap Gauge - a cool tool
Suppressor Housing (original is always cracked)
Cosmetic Distributor Cover
Ignition Wire Holder (plastic cover)
Vacuum Hose for routing
Spark Plug Installation Hose Tool
6 Tie Wraps for Vacuum Line
Special Allen Tool for Distributor Cap
Allen Wrench for Mixture Adjustment COMGKU
Sound good? Knowing me, I probably won't have a idea on what to do. I just hope this will improve the car overall and possibly fix that idling problem.
I think a tune up is a good investment right now, since the fact that sometimes I need to start my car two times.
oh, is the cap and rotor in this picture?
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL
ex 300E driver
I wish they had that tune up kit available when I needed it for my 300E. That is a great price, if you want proof, try to buy each item seperately! It will cost you well over $300. If you have any problems, or need help with the tune up, I will give you my phone number, and I will guide you through it. Trust me, it is straightforward and simple. Have faith in yourself, If I can do it, you can too.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Orange County, CA
W124's
haha thanks mike. I'm pretty sure I can do it with a help of a friend.
Does that kit have everything I need for a tune up?
I should buy a new filter as well.
Also, anyone have information about the shims situation and if I should replace them with new ones. I still dont know what the purpose of them.
Does that kit have everything I need for a tune up?
I should buy a new filter as well.
Also, anyone have information about the shims situation and if I should replace them with new ones. I still dont know what the purpose of them.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,816
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From: Orange County, CA
W124's
So I'm assuming that the tune up kit is complete? haha
Yeah, the Shim is suspension related, but just dont know what it does and its purpose. Mine right now looks pretty *****ty.
Yeah, the Shim is suspension related, but just dont know what it does and its purpose. Mine right now looks pretty *****ty.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: So CAli/L.A
88 260 E
Originally Posted by ChrisDPham
Is there anything important I should know when doing the install. If I buy the hit...it should cost around 250-300 which includes the following:
103 Engine Power Tuning Guide
Bosch Ignition Wire Set
6 Bosch Spark Plugs
Bosch Distributor Cap and Gasket
Bosch Distributor Rotor
Bosch Spark Plug Gap Gauge - a cool tool
Suppressor Housing (original is always cracked)
Cosmetic Distributor Cover
Ignition Wire Holder (plastic cover)
Vacuum Hose for routing
Spark Plug Installation Hose Tool
6 Tie Wraps for Vacuum Line
Special Allen Tool for Distributor Cap
Allen Wrench for Mixture Adjustment COMGKU
Sound good? Knowing me, I probably won't have a idea on what to do. I just hope this will improve the car overall and possibly fix that idling problem.
I think a tune up is a good investment right now, since the fact that sometimes I need to start my car two times.
oh, is the cap and rotor in this picture?
103 Engine Power Tuning Guide
Bosch Ignition Wire Set
6 Bosch Spark Plugs
Bosch Distributor Cap and Gasket
Bosch Distributor Rotor
Bosch Spark Plug Gap Gauge - a cool tool
Suppressor Housing (original is always cracked)
Cosmetic Distributor Cover
Ignition Wire Holder (plastic cover)
Vacuum Hose for routing
Spark Plug Installation Hose Tool
6 Tie Wraps for Vacuum Line
Special Allen Tool for Distributor Cap
Allen Wrench for Mixture Adjustment COMGKU
Sound good? Knowing me, I probably won't have a idea on what to do. I just hope this will improve the car overall and possibly fix that idling problem.
I think a tune up is a good investment right now, since the fact that sometimes I need to start my car two times.
oh, is the cap and rotor in this picture?
~Cali
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
From: Northern Cali
W124
You mentioned replacing the air filter. My 260 has a K&N in it not so much for horsepower but more for fuel economy although the extra ponies it gives are a fun addition. It also helps that you never have to replace it and the cleaning and oiling kit will last you at least 4 cleanings. I'm curious to the timing on the 124s. The normal rule of thumb is that when you replace the cap and rotor you reset the timing to its proper degree from TDC. I've done timings in other cars before but never in a 124. Does anyone know how to go about doing that?
Last edited by NorCal124; Apr 14, 2005 at 06:41 PM.
