Lately I've been wondering if I should replaced the factory shims I have right now and replaced them with new ones. Does anyone think I should do it? I don't even know what these shims do. So perhaps someone can educate me.

Also, I'm really curious about my cars idling characteristics right now. It's running lower than it should be. In drive it's around 500-600 rpm...sometimes will drop below and the car will knock at a stop. How could I go about getting this fix or what could be the problem. I'm sure there is one.

 

hmm...i think you mean 5-600 rpm idle?

 

fixed. thanks!

Anyone have any ideas?

 

bump.

 

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Have you cleaned that idle control valve?

When was the last time you did the cap and rotor?

Is you throttle cable tight enough?

One of those might be the culprit.

BTW: My car idled at 500 rpm in drive, but never stumbled. 500-750 rpm is the normal range.

 

lol. hopefully this doesn't make you mad.

How do I clean the idle control valve?

What exactly is the cap and rotor?

 

OH NOW YOU'VE MADE ME MAD!!

Just kidding!

I cleaned the idle control valve on my car by removing it (you have to remove the air cleaner housing on my car, a 1987 300E, to access the valve) and squirting a bunch of carburetor cleaner into it and shaking it repeatedly (cover the ends with your fingers while shaking it). If you can hear valve inside freely moving back and forth when you shake it, you probably don't need to replace it. If it is dirty, it should be moving more freely after you clean it.

Pic of it:


Anyone correct me if I am wrong here:
The cap a.k.a distributor cap is where the ignition wires plug into. The distributor rotor is located underneath the cap. The rotor spins, when the engine is running and makes contact with little metallic parts in the rotor. That in turn makes electricity, which provides current to the ignition wires. The current is then transferred into the spark plugs and spark is created.

 

Thanks for the info!

I think I possibly might just need a tune up. Do you agree? God knows when the last time was.

Just wondering if thats a easy DYI job if I just buy the kit.

 

The tune up on the 300E is easy. The inline six gives ample room to access and remove/replace parts. The tune up will take you about 2-3 hours of a Saturday morning to complete, that includes a few breaks and beers. I recently did the tune up to my Monte Carlo, and replacing the plugs and wires on that 3800 motor took me about 3 hours!

 

Is there anything important I should know when doing the install. If I buy the hit...it should cost around 250-300 which includes the following:

103 Engine Power Tuning Guide
Bosch Ignition Wire Set
6 Bosch Spark Plugs
Bosch Distributor Cap and Gasket
Bosch Distributor Rotor
Bosch Spark Plug Gap Gauge - a cool tool
Suppressor Housing (original is always cracked)
Cosmetic Distributor Cover
Ignition Wire Holder (plastic cover)
Vacuum Hose for routing
Spark Plug Installation Hose Tool
6 Tie Wraps for Vacuum Line
Special Allen Tool for Distributor Cap
Allen Wrench for Mixture Adjustment COMGKU

Sound good? Knowing me, I probably won't have a idea on what to do. I just hope this will improve the car overall and possibly fix that idling problem.

I think a tune up is a good investment right now, since the fact that sometimes I need to start my car two times.

oh, is the cap and rotor in this picture?

 

I wish they had that tune up kit available when I needed it for my 300E. That is a great price, if you want proof, try to buy each item seperately! It will cost you well over $300. If you have any problems, or need help with the tune up, I will give you my phone number, and I will guide you through it. Trust me, it is straightforward and simple. Have faith in yourself, If I can do it, you can too.

 

haha thanks mike. I'm pretty sure I can do it with a help of a friend.

Does that kit have everything I need for a tune up?

I should buy a new filter as well.

Also, anyone have information about the shims situation and if I should replace them with new ones. I still dont know what the purpose of them.

 

The air filter is a good item to replace also. A Bosch unit sells at AutoZone for $14.
I thought that shims were suspension related?

 

So I'm assuming that the tune up kit is complete? haha

Yeah, the Shim is suspension related, but just dont know what it does and its purpose. Mine right now looks pretty *****ty.

 

That's funny Chris I just bought that same kit for my car. I'm thinking of having the plastic covers painted or powdercoated. If you want, I can wait till you order yours, so I can help you with yours..

~Cali

 

Hey Cali, thanks for the generous offer.

I possibly won't order them for awhile since I have to budget my money now. You can always just write up a tutorial.

 

You mentioned replacing the air filter. My 260 has a K&N in it not so much for horsepower but more for fuel economy although the extra ponies it gives are a fun addition. It also helps that you never have to replace it and the cleaning and oiling kit will last you at least 4 cleanings. I'm curious to the timing on the 124s. The normal rule of thumb is that when you replace the cap and rotor you reset the timing to its proper degree from TDC. I've done timings in other cars before but never in a 124. Does anyone know how to go about doing that?