E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Has anyone ever tried slotted and/or drilled brake rotors in W124?

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Old 06-02-2005, 03:30 AM
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W124
I think maybe you're missing the point that this a 300TE for road use?
Drilled/slotted rotors reduce the tendency to fade under repeatedly extreme braking (ie on a track). The trade off is reduced braking force for a given rotor size.
Race brakes only work well at high temperatures which is not much use if you're just popping to the shops.
The only sensible upgrade is to go with 24v brakes which are 10mm larger in diameter with twin pot calipers.
Old 06-02-2005, 04:42 AM
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E430 Sport W210, 500E W124, E320 Wagon W211
I have it on my E320 coupe

Can not tell the difference, just for the look ..... :p
Attached Thumbnails Has anyone ever tried slotted and/or drilled brake rotors in W124?-crossdrill.jpg  
Old 06-02-2005, 06:52 AM
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99 ML 320, 97 Porsche 993 C2S, 92 300E
Originally Posted by AMG_Eric
lol those are not mbz rotors for a w124.

You're right about that They are from two different Porsches.

I think the point is kind of decide how you want to use the car and from there decide how much and what type of brake pads and rotors you need. Of course for looks both the slotted and drilled rotors look cool.
Old 06-02-2005, 10:34 AM
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Ok, regardless if X-drilled or slotteds help or don't help your vehicle, do the brembo cross drilled rotors they have up for auction on ebay any good? I've been told they cross drill them afterwards from factory brembo rotors. If these are whack, any suggestions on a good brand.
Old 06-02-2005, 04:12 PM
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Back to the point. Do not buy them on ebay unless you just want them for looks. They are O.E brembos with holes in them. If you want -x-drilled i would got with a porsche set up or if you don't want to change the calipers then buy some x-drilled zimmerman rotors.

AMG ERIC Is not a conspiracy but they main word you are using is RACE! Do all your buddies at the race shops use the same brake setup on their cars? Unless you are racing in your benz i do recommend you using slotted rotors.

Im not going to lie I'm going to put them on my car to make it look cool after i get my wheels!!
Old 06-02-2005, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by YNVDIZW124

AMG ERIC Is not a conspiracy but they main word you are using is RACE! Do all your buddies at the race shops use the same brake setup on their cars? Unless you are racing in your benz i do recommend you using slotted rotors.

Im not going to lie I'm going to put them on my car to make it look cool after i get my wheels!!
yes all the race dudes use similar setups...x drilled and vented/slotted.

i am promoting venting/slotted rotors. drilled ones will crack like the above pictures. amg i believe now runs all x-drilled and slotted brakes on all the new amg models....correct me if i am wrong.

all rice rockets/super bikes stock come with x-drilled rotors. all the moto-x bikes i see have x-drilled at the bare minimum. additionally the cracks just dont happen overnite. as with all things as the rotor wears thinner it will produce discolorations, cracking, warping and the like. your goal is to maximize cooling, decrease rotor wear and increase braking efficientcy. i have no idea what brand is the best or the worst. i only know what they use in the race industry, the bike industry and what my car has on it. ofcourse simple reasoning skills dont hurt either.
Old 06-02-2005, 05:38 PM
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91 300E, 93 Blazer full size 4x4, 01 GSXR 1000
I have the zimmerman cross drilled on mine. Now when doing 100 to 0 mph braking, there are less black hot spots on the rotors. I have been roadracing motorcycles for over 10 years and have never had rotors crack.....but they were OEM.
When you guys talk about "braking power" im assuming you mean the force it takes your foot/pedal to stop the car. I think every mbz out there has the actual braking power to lock up all four if it werent for the abs. Tires and brakes are what you need. I have 18's with Falken 451's that improved the brakes ability to slow the car down without locking up/ abs coming on. When the abs comes on, you pretty much just made the limit of your stopping power/ traction. So you get bigger tires and so on, till you push the brakes all the way and cant get the abs to come on.........then you need either a bigger master cylinder bore or bigger rotor/calipers, not to mention tape to keep your eyeballs in. Of course with solid rotors the gas cant escape and you float the pads across the rotors kinda like hydraplaning. There you get a kind of fade.
Old 06-02-2005, 08:23 PM
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Talking

of course simple reasoning skills dont hurt either
If you use this method then how come you don't have a ram air system and a rear wing to get more down force at higher speeds? EVERY RACING CAR HAS THEM HOW COME YOU DON'T?

yes all the race dudes use similar setups...x drilled and vented/slotted.
Do they all have stock calipers and regular pads?

Amg i believe now runs all x-drilled and slotted brakes on all the new amg models....correct me if i am wrong.
Yes they do. But they don't have a one piston caliper like we have on the 300e's they are now using 4 piston calipers.

The point im trying to make is that rotors alone are not the only thing you need to have better braking power and gpracer is right about the ABS. You need to upgrade your whole braking setup to see a real difference.
Old 06-02-2005, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by YNVDIZW124
If you use this method then how come you don't have a ram air system and a rear wing to get more down force at higher speeds? EVERY RACING CAR HAS THEM HOW COME YOU DON'T?



Do they all have stock calipers and regular pads?
a cool rotor = better braking and longer rotor life.
Originally Posted by YNVDIZW124

Yes they do. But they don't have a one piston caliper like we have on the 300e's they are now using 4 piston calipers.
did u miss the post where i said i have 4 piston calipers??? also you have 2 piston calipers. no way for a single piston to push 2 pads.
Originally Posted by YNVDIZW124
The point im trying to make is that rotors alone are not the only thing you need to have better braking power and gpracer is right about the ABS. You need to upgrade your whole braking setup to see a real difference.
not true. u can see the difference immediately because the pads have a place to OFF GAS. you are missing one huge point here. your brake pads off gas as they are used. with stock rotors u have no where for that gas to go. with a vented rotor the gas can expand into the slot thereby releasing the gas.

i basically am done trying to convince anyone of anything. get them for looks, get them for performance, get them because you have money to burn or dont get them.
Old 06-02-2005, 11:14 PM
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91 300E, 93 Blazer full size 4x4, 01 GSXR 1000
By the way, they are one piston calipers on the 300e fronts. Thats why its important to make sure the caliper pins or other sliding surface where it mounts has lube on it. Otherwise the inboard pad gets wasted first on the fronts. Most cars are single piston...its cheaper. Thats also why the pad that touches the piston, usually the inboard, has the brake squealers/wear indicators, cause they go first.
Old 06-03-2005, 03:31 PM
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also you have 2 piston calipers. no way for a single piston to push 2 pads.
Thank you GPRACER!. I have done a few 4 disk conversions on classic mustangs using baer, wilwood, pbr, and brembo brakes but then again i don't know how many pistons a benz have.

not true. u can see the difference immediately because the pads have a place to OFF GAS. you are missing one huge point here. your brake pads off gas as they are used.
What pad are you using? Performance pads do have a slot in the middle to vent off some excess gases that are created. Anyways no one is saying anything about gases except you. We all agree that gases are created but in a daily drive situation with stop and go traffic you will have not enough gases to where you have major brake fade. look at the pads below

I COULD GET REALLY TECHNICAL ABOUT IT BUT GPRACER TAKE IT AWAY!!!
Attached Thumbnails Has anyone ever tried slotted and/or drilled brake rotors in W124?-rotex-gold-box-pads.jpg  
Old 06-03-2005, 04:02 PM
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91 300E, 93 Blazer full size 4x4, 01 GSXR 1000
The slot will vent gasses and one other thing. The more edges a pad has, the more initial "bite" you get. Im not sure why. All the superbikes now use multi pads, some 4 or 6 pads per caliper. The street zx6-636 has 4 pads per caliper. And those brakes rock. But I think we have exhausted this thread to death.....like worn out cracked warped rotors. Hahahahaha
Old 06-03-2005, 05:41 PM
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Mercedes-Benz w124
ive been thinking of replacing brakes... how do i know when i need to replace brakes??? and which should i get? im not looking for amazing performance. maybe some that won't give off that much brake dust would also be helpful. how much do they run for? ( cost )
Old 06-03-2005, 07:45 PM
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91 300E, 93 Blazer full size 4x4, 01 GSXR 1000
I made the mistake of getting OEM pads. Waaaay too much brake dust all over the 18's. Not to mention brake dust squeal. I shoulda got the ceramic pads. They say better performance, no sqeaks and barely any dust.
I replace the pads when they are less than 3/16 or 1/8" left just to be safe.
Rotors only if they are warped or galled (thinner in the middle than the top and bottom, kinda wave like). Otherwise the new pads wont even touch the middle and overheat and glaze the top and bottom portion with crappy effective braking.

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