E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Head Gasket Replacement

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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 04:18 AM
  #1  
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W124's
Head Gasket Replacement

I have a question for those of you that are knowledgeble in this area...

I was wondering if any of you have done your own Head Gasket Replacement, rather than having a Mechanic do it.

I was talking to a buddy of mine earlier, who is rather pretty good in that area of expertise has offered to help with the work.

So, I'm wondering what steps did you guys have to go through and do you have any advice, precautions, steps or anything that might help me out if I do decide to do this.

- Chris
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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1993 300CE Sportline
where are the directions

I've read a posted description of the process.
Go to http://www.mercedesshop.com/ and then to the do it yourself, DIY, section: http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf ; here you will find a M104 Head Gasket Replacement section with the following article.

Head Gasket Replacement
on the M104 Engine
by Steve Brotherton
First Published in: ImportCar∞
It is a very in-depth article including Job Risks which is a way of saying it will be more complicated and cost more than you originally budgeted for.
Good luck and keep us posted.
kurt
1993 300CE Sportline
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:01 PM
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1993 300CE Sportline
oil in coolant

I just remembered what my mechanic suggested. I asked about traces of ooil in the coolant, which I have at 80,000 miles, remember a tiny amount of oil in water can look worse than it is. Just look outside in a parking lot when it is raining and it looks like a major spill. ANyway, mechanic suggested removing the radiator cap when engine cool and inserting a strip of this grey oil absorbing material. I did this every night for about a week and the strip, which I attached a clothes pin to so it would not fall in the overflow tank (learning curve) is a bit slimy when removed. Now I noticed my cap is not as oily when i remove it. So maybe i cheated father time on this one for a bit. Doesn't fix anything, however if it is a tiny loss of oil via the head gasket I can live with it for quite a time.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:21 PM
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1990 300ce
One thing I know is that you have to machine the head to make sure it seals back up well. I guess if you found a good reliable machine shop that has experience doing that, it shouldn't be too much trouble.

I don't know, man. Most people with a goal of long-term ownership will get a valve job at the same time. That's the kind of stuff I'd rather leave up to a professional. I know it's a lot of cash, but I'd say take it to a pro... Luckily it's more of a chronic problem, so you can drive around on it while you save up the money. It's just too important of a thing to risk it.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 04:11 PM
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88 260 E
yeah, do the valve job while you're at it. When it's my turn I'm going to have them port and polish as well. Not trying to make it speed racer but every lil bit helps.

~Cali
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 06:15 PM
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91 300E
ug I remember that milestone. UGLY.

Yes valve job at the same time however if there is evidence of oil in the coolant lines replace them all. I replaced some, not all initially, but then the coolant line I did not replace initially at the heater in the back burst within 2 weeks. Green blood all over the garage.

This was the single most expensive fix to the car in one shot that i know of.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 08:42 PM
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Piece of Cake

If you are at all a DIY kinda guy it really isn't a big deal. Just make sure you have some sorta hoist systen to lift it off the block. Don't bother with valves and machining the head. MB head rarely need it..unless you cooked it!! Just put a straight level on it...if it is not warped then don't worry about it. Buy the gasket set and new head bolts so they are handy if you need them, the bolts that is. Measure the old ones and if they are within the limits then re-use the old ones and return the new ones to your dealer. This is not rocket science..it isn't hard and alotta fun if you have someone to help. Make sure you have a good torque wrench and the correct hex head to fit your head bolts. Also, if this is a M104 engine expect that you will probably need to replace the wiring harness as well 'cause it will crack as you remove it. Be VERY careful and gently with it (wiring harness) as it is moved. Good luck and have fun. And you don't need to replace coolant lines...just clean them out. Flush the engine and put the correct MB coolant back in.....you'll be fine. It looks like you have a M103 engine...easier still...so the wiring harness may not be an issue. But don't spend alotta money unneccessarily with valve jobs and head planning....you probably don't need it. Do the gasket and move on.

Last edited by Brian McL; Apr 25, 2006 at 09:00 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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Yeah I did exactly what you said brian and I wasn't fine with the coolant lines...It really depends on the severity of the degredation it seems...it's a crap shoot.

Last edited by zahkunst; Apr 26, 2006 at 09:02 PM.
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