E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

My new '88 300 E

Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:11 AM
  #1  
Bassist's Avatar
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From: Maine
'88 300 E
My new '88 300 E

What's up everyone. I just bought myself a 88 300 E a couple weeks ago and have been completely amazed at how unique these things are engineered. Everything seems tip top so far but my question is are there any specific things I should be keeping a close eye on during routine DIY servicing that might lead to problems down the road (pardon the pun.) I am a college student and am trying to stay as far away from the dealership as possible. Any help would be much appreciated.
Can't wait to get it on the road.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 03:03 AM
  #2  
CDP's Avatar
CDP
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Orange County, CA
W124's
Driveshaft flex disks - Expect the front ones to last about 80-100K miles and the backs to last at least 150K miles. First symptom is clunking sound while coasting to a stop. Center bearing supports can wear out, causing droning vibrations at cruising speeds.

Climate Controls - Most climate control systems (ACC) on MBs do not seem to be as long-lived as the counterpart American systems. Don’t know why, but since most Mercedes systems are automatic, an extra layer of complexity has been added to the mix. ACC systems seem to need service at least every 50K miles. A/C parts that tend to wear out are: Compressors, Pushbutton Control Units and control relays. Non-operating aux fan can cause compressor failure. In most cases, just a coolant recharge is all that is needed. Many of the flaps controlling venting are activated by vacuum elements that tend to develop leaks at about 150K to 200K miles. Blower motors typically last about 150K miles. The brushes wear out and the first symptom is intermittent operation. Squealing is caused by the bearings in need of lubrication – use ATF.

Shocks/Struts - They tend to be more robust and last much longer than people expect, which may lead to unnecessary replacements. Expect to get at least 125K miles or more out of a set of shocks and struts.

Gas Engines - Expect to replace the valve seals at 125-150K miles on gas engines. First symptom is increased oil use. Head jobs are typical at 180-200K miles. Bottom ends should last at least 250K miles as long as oil is changed regularly. Expect oil leak problems on the 190E 2.6/300E/E320 engine at the head gasket, front timing cover and valve cover gasket. Timing chains and tensioners (and maybe rails) should be replaced at 100K miles. Owners of 91 or older 4.2 liter V-8s should especially heed this advice or your engine could be trashed. Big $$$$

Diesels Engines - Most of the Mercedes diesels are very robust and do not require much internal service for 250K miles. Timing chain “stretch” should be monitored and changed if beyond 4 degrees retarded. Chains generally are shorter and last longer in diesels. Expect a set of injectors to last at least 100K miles and glow plugs typically last 75K miles. Older diesels (in 123s) require valve adjustments every 15K miles. Vacuum pumps last 125-150K miles. Failures in certain 123 vacuum pumps can result in oil being sucked into ALL the vacuum lines. $$$$ to clean and replace all the lines.

Exhaust Systems - Tend to be more robust (and heavy!). Expect 100K miles at least. Keep the engine in tune and get longer life from the catalytic converter and the muffler. Rust is usually the culprit for failures.

Bushings - 150K miles is a good estimate. The rubber just gets hard or shrinks, resulting in excessive vibrations, squeaks, and harshness. This is one of the most neglected service items and yet it plays such a pivotal role in ride comfort.

Cruise Control (CC) - Is there anyone who has owned a Mercedes at least 5 years who has NOT had CC problems? Typically it is the amplifier under the dash that causes the most problems. The servo and the stalk switch can also cause problems. The amplifier tends to have solder joint cracks that cause intermittent operation, the typical first symptom of trouble. Make sure all linkages at the engine are cleaned and lubed with transmission fluid. There are testers that can quickly diagnose CC problems.


Motor Mounts - Typically last about 100K miles. First symptom is excessive vibration at idle. Mounts for diesels typically last less than their gas counterparts.

Hydraulic Suspensions - Nitrogen cells last about 75-100K miles. First symptom is very hard ride because hydraulic fluid permeates the nitrogen gas cells. Most other parts are robust, but make sure fluid is drained and filled at recommended intervals. Use only MB fluid. Older air suspension systems have characteristic sag as a first symptom and can be very expensive to maintain. 2000 S-Class? Too early to tell.

Airbags- There may be a sticker on your car that says to replace the airbag after 10 years. The change interval has been extended. Check with Dealer if unsure. NOT a DIY item.

Transmissions - B2 piston failure causes no forward gears but reverse works. Overhaul is usually not required in this case. Most transmissions last 150K miles or more. Some transmissions will go 250-300K miles without problems, assuming regular fluid/filter changes. 722.2/3 transmission flairing/hard shifts can be a misadjusted Bowden cable, vacuum modulator leakage or modulator out of adjustment. Long delays in engaging reverse can signal an overhaul is due, but if all else is OK, drive it until it fails.

Turbos - Can last the life of the car with proper care. Diesels with Trap Oxidizers can have catastrophic turbo failures. Check dealer for campaign to replace Traps and inspect /replace turbos for free.

Fuel Pumps/Fuel Pump Relays - The relays typically last about 100K miles. Carry a spare. Easy to replace. Fuel Pumps often last the life of the car. Fairly expensive but not hard to replace.

Diesel Fuel Injection Pumps - Typically last the life of the car. Expensive to have rebuilt or replaced.

Wheel Bearings - Not unusual to last life of the car if re-packed at 90,000-mile interval. Make sure grease levels are strictly maintained and runout is within specs. Don’t mix greases.

Brakes - Pad wear is too dependent on driving style. Fronts can last from 10K-60K miles.

Rear pads can last 30-70K miles. Front rotors last about 50K miles. Backs last longer. Do not have them turned; replace them. Original equipment is highly recommended. ABS systems are fairly robust, with exception of the sensors/wires at the hubs. First symptom is ABS activating when wheels aren’t sliding.

Cooling Systems - Plastic radiators crack at upper hose mount. Usually last only about 75K miles. All-metal radiators can last 100-150K miles. Fan clutches last about 100K miles. Water pumps last about 100K miles too. Thermostats last about 40-50K miles.

Electrical - Alternators last indefinitely but regulator brushes should be changed at about 100K miles. Bearings cause squeal. Regulators can fail but are cheap and easy to replace.

Fuses tend to corrode over time. Clean and or replace all fuses at regular intervals to prevent intermittent operation of electrical devices. Make sure battery posts and grounds are clean and connections are tight.

Hope this helps you out with all your questions.

- chris

Last edited by CDP; Jun 18, 2006 at 03:05 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 10:05 AM
  #3  
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Maine
'88 300 E
Thanks

Thanks a lot Chris. All the help is much appreciated. I'm going to go pick up an extra fuel pump relay right now.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:27 PM
  #4  
crr1612's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
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From: marlboro, nj
Mercedes benz 1991 300ce(RIP), now an 89 300ce
Originally Posted by ChrisDPham
Driveshaft flex disks - Expect the front ones to last about 80-100K miles and the backs to last at least 150K miles. First symptom is clunking sound while coasting to a stop. Center bearing supports can wear out, causing droning vibrations at cruising speeds.

Climate Controls - Most climate control systems (ACC) on MBs do not seem to be as long-lived as the counterpart American systems. Don’t know why, but since most Mercedes systems are automatic, an extra layer of complexity has been added to the mix. ACC systems seem to need service at least every 50K miles. A/C parts that tend to wear out are: Compressors, Pushbutton Control Units and control relays. Non-operating aux fan can cause compressor failure. In most cases, just a coolant recharge is all that is needed. Many of the flaps controlling venting are activated by vacuum elements that tend to develop leaks at about 150K to 200K miles. Blower motors typically last about 150K miles. The brushes wear out and the first symptom is intermittent operation. Squealing is caused by the bearings in need of lubrication – use ATF.

Shocks/Struts - They tend to be more robust and last much longer than people expect, which may lead to unnecessary replacements. Expect to get at least 125K miles or more out of a set of shocks and struts.

Gas Engines - Expect to replace the valve seals at 125-150K miles on gas engines. First symptom is increased oil use. Head jobs are typical at 180-200K miles. Bottom ends should last at least 250K miles as long as oil is changed regularly. Expect oil leak problems on the 190E 2.6/300E/E320 engine at the head gasket, front timing cover and valve cover gasket. Timing chains and tensioners (and maybe rails) should be replaced at 100K miles. Owners of 91 or older 4.2 liter V-8s should especially heed this advice or your engine could be trashed. Big $$$$

Diesels Engines - Most of the Mercedes diesels are very robust and do not require much internal service for 250K miles. Timing chain “stretch” should be monitored and changed if beyond 4 degrees retarded. Chains generally are shorter and last longer in diesels. Expect a set of injectors to last at least 100K miles and glow plugs typically last 75K miles. Older diesels (in 123s) require valve adjustments every 15K miles. Vacuum pumps last 125-150K miles. Failures in certain 123 vacuum pumps can result in oil being sucked into ALL the vacuum lines. $$$$ to clean and replace all the lines.

Exhaust Systems - Tend to be more robust (and heavy!). Expect 100K miles at least. Keep the engine in tune and get longer life from the catalytic converter and the muffler. Rust is usually the culprit for failures.

Bushings - 150K miles is a good estimate. The rubber just gets hard or shrinks, resulting in excessive vibrations, squeaks, and harshness. This is one of the most neglected service items and yet it plays such a pivotal role in ride comfort.

Cruise Control (CC) - Is there anyone who has owned a Mercedes at least 5 years who has NOT had CC problems? Typically it is the amplifier under the dash that causes the most problems. The servo and the stalk switch can also cause problems. The amplifier tends to have solder joint cracks that cause intermittent operation, the typical first symptom of trouble. Make sure all linkages at the engine are cleaned and lubed with transmission fluid. There are testers that can quickly diagnose CC problems.


Motor Mounts - Typically last about 100K miles. First symptom is excessive vibration at idle. Mounts for diesels typically last less than their gas counterparts.

Hydraulic Suspensions - Nitrogen cells last about 75-100K miles. First symptom is very hard ride because hydraulic fluid permeates the nitrogen gas cells. Most other parts are robust, but make sure fluid is drained and filled at recommended intervals. Use only MB fluid. Older air suspension systems have characteristic sag as a first symptom and can be very expensive to maintain. 2000 S-Class? Too early to tell.

Airbags- There may be a sticker on your car that says to replace the airbag after 10 years. The change interval has been extended. Check with Dealer if unsure. NOT a DIY item.

Transmissions - B2 piston failure causes no forward gears but reverse works. Overhaul is usually not required in this case. Most transmissions last 150K miles or more. Some transmissions will go 250-300K miles without problems, assuming regular fluid/filter changes. 722.2/3 transmission flairing/hard shifts can be a misadjusted Bowden cable, vacuum modulator leakage or modulator out of adjustment. Long delays in engaging reverse can signal an overhaul is due, but if all else is OK, drive it until it fails.

Turbos - Can last the life of the car with proper care. Diesels with Trap Oxidizers can have catastrophic turbo failures. Check dealer for campaign to replace Traps and inspect /replace turbos for free.

Fuel Pumps/Fuel Pump Relays - The relays typically last about 100K miles. Carry a spare. Easy to replace. Fuel Pumps often last the life of the car. Fairly expensive but not hard to replace.

Diesel Fuel Injection Pumps - Typically last the life of the car. Expensive to have rebuilt or replaced.

Wheel Bearings - Not unusual to last life of the car if re-packed at 90,000-mile interval. Make sure grease levels are strictly maintained and runout is within specs. Don’t mix greases.

Brakes - Pad wear is too dependent on driving style. Fronts can last from 10K-60K miles.

Rear pads can last 30-70K miles. Front rotors last about 50K miles. Backs last longer. Do not have them turned; replace them. Original equipment is highly recommended. ABS systems are fairly robust, with exception of the sensors/wires at the hubs. First symptom is ABS activating when wheels aren’t sliding.

Cooling Systems - Plastic radiators crack at upper hose mount. Usually last only about 75K miles. All-metal radiators can last 100-150K miles. Fan clutches last about 100K miles. Water pumps last about 100K miles too. Thermostats last about 40-50K miles.

Electrical - Alternators last indefinitely but regulator brushes should be changed at about 100K miles. Bearings cause squeal. Regulators can fail but are cheap and easy to replace.

Fuses tend to corrode over time. Clean and or replace all fuses at regular intervals to prevent intermittent operation of electrical devices. Make sure battery posts and grounds are clean and connections are tight.

Hope this helps you out with all your questions.

- chris


hey chris, the whole vacuum elements thing....i think thats the problem i am having. how can you check where the leak is and fix it. i can hear my blower motor blowing hard, but air isnt coming out of the vents as much as it should
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