E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Possible Modifications to 1991 300ce?

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Old 04-23-2011, 12:12 PM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
When I was doing the PBX rally, I was watching my lights dim as my rpms slowed. That was only with some interior lights on. I plan on adding my rally light setup eventually, so it'd certainly be needed then.

lastly, I have the hope that the higher charging rate at idle will help me with keeping my battery charged next winter. I had several instances when I needed jumps despite having driven quite a bit.
Old 04-23-2011, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bsmuwk
When you're using a the radio, blower motor, windshield wipers, headlights, foglights, seat heaters, moving the power seats, have lights on in the interior....it's a lot of strain on that tiny alternator.
But wasn't that alternator designed with those loads in mind? The W124 is one of the most over engineered cars, I'm sure they'd take that into consideration!

Besides, you only move the seats once. And did W124's come with seat heaters?
Old 04-24-2011, 04:15 AM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Yeah, w124s did come with butt warmers. Either not many options came on the 90 300ce or the people who bought it went for the bare-bones version because I have none of the fun gadgets, but hey. Whatever.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bucky Update:
Car is at the shop, surgery begins Monday. I'm taking out a personal loan (bank willing lol) to cover the cost of the rebuild. Mechanic says he's almost 100% positive its all top-end problems (seals/gaskets), and the bottom end is fine. We'll be doing headgasket + valve cover gasket + valve seals + (Possible) valve guides/valves + Intake/exhaust manifolds + alternator.

I'm fairly hopeful that the car will be much better after all this work, though I realize there are many other components I need to fix (entire EGR system, Air Injection/Idle Speed Control). Pending a full recovery, I will begin saving anew for my Koni Yellows as I've the H&R Sports waiting along with new Strut mounts.

Last edited by Saijin_Naib; 04-24-2011 at 04:19 AM.
Old 04-24-2011, 06:20 AM
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Good luck, my friend!

My car is bare bones too. The way I see it, less weight. :P I went and weighed it and it topped the scales at 1540kgs.
Old 04-24-2011, 10:19 PM
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300D, 500E, E420
Originally Posted by Shoomakan
But wasn't that alternator designed with those loads in mind? The W124 is one of the most over engineered cars, I'm sure they'd take that into consideration!
Back in the mid-80's, the alternator technology was still pretty weak, and there simply wasn't much available from Bosch that put out over 70-80 amps peak (and only 30-40 at idle). This was definitely one area that MB did NOT over-engineer things. Electrical loads increased in the early 1990's and MB gradually increased alternator capacity. The largest unit used on a W124 from the factory was 110-120A. The 143-150A units can put out over 90A at idle, more than the stock 70-80A could put out peak! Again, I want to see 14+ volts at idle, not 11.5-12.0 when idling at night in summer heat with the AC on, radiator electric fan going, headlights on, etc. The stock units are just plain undersized.

Thought I had already posted this link, but in case not, here's my full write-up on the alternator upgrade:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ad.php?t=53236

Old 04-24-2011, 10:21 PM
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300D, 500E, E420
Originally Posted by Saijin_Naib
Bucky Update:
Car is at the shop, surgery begins Monday. I'm taking out a personal loan (bank willing lol) to cover the cost of the rebuild. Mechanic says he's almost 100% positive its all top-end problems (seals/gaskets), and the bottom end is fine. We'll be doing headgasket + valve cover gasket + valve seals + (Possible) valve guides/valves + Intake/exhaust manifolds + alternator.
Saijin, please have the mechanic use a bore gauge on all cylinders once the head comes off, to at least verify the cylinder walls are ok. If they are out of spec, or cross-hatch is worn/missing on some cylinders, cut your losses and don't put another dime into that engine. Hopefully it's not rings, as that's much more difficult to detect without actually pulling pistons (which he ain't gonna do). Here's hoping your mech is correct...

Old 04-24-2011, 11:22 PM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Originally Posted by AMGDave
Saijin, please have the mechanic use a bore gauge on all cylinders once the head comes off, to at least verify the cylinder walls are ok. If they are out of spec, or cross-hatch is worn/missing on some cylinders, cut your losses and don't put another dime into that engine. Hopefully it's not rings, as that's much more difficult to detect without actually pulling pistons (which he ain't gonna do). Here's hoping your mech is correct...

Thanks, I'll try and talk to him about it. I feel kind of awkward asking for stuff like that because well, I don't really know anything to be honest. But yeah, I'll ask and see if that is part of the process.

Fingers crossed
Old 04-26-2011, 04:08 PM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Personal loan denied due to a previously existing past-due account. I closed/paid it in full, but it is on my record for a period of 7 years (should disappear by this time next summer). Doesn't help me today however :P

FAFSA time baby >_< I've enough money in loans that I could have bought this.
Oh well, right?
Old 04-26-2011, 07:56 PM
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Depends on the day
Originally Posted by Saijin_Naib
Personal loan denied due to a previously existing past-due account. I closed/paid it in full, but it is on my record for a period of 7 years (should disappear by this time next summer). Doesn't help me today however :P

FAFSA time baby >_< I've enough money in loans that I could have bought this.
Oh well, right?
Pff, I get my FAFSA out of the way Jan 2nd every year.
Stupid $35k tuition.


Start a save Bucky fund?
Old 04-27-2011, 05:47 AM
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Have a box with "Help me modify my car!" on it.

ORRRRRRRRRR

Print a "Save Ferris!" box and walk around with it. :p
Old 04-27-2011, 12:54 PM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Yeah, I'm going to try and skip panhandling but I may have no choice haha.

I think bucky goes under the knife today, provided parts arrived at the shop. Calling in a min for a status update, will post here.
Old 04-27-2011, 02:18 PM
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300D, 500E, E420
"Bucky? Um, he's sick. My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with the girl who saw Bucky pass out at 31 Flavors last night. I guess it's pretty serious."

SAVE BUCKY!!!!!
Old 04-27-2011, 03:33 PM
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AMGDave, check your email. :P
Old 04-27-2011, 04:14 PM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Originally Posted by AMGDave
"Bucky? Um, he's sick. My best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with the girl who saw Bucky pass out at 31 Flavors last night. I guess it's pretty serious."

SAVE BUCKY!!!!!
One of the best posts thus far. Wish I could +1 this haha
Old 04-28-2011, 02:17 AM
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I'm with you on that. I laughed, then coughed. Then laughed, then coughed again. Screw smoking. :P
Old 04-28-2011, 12:35 PM
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300D, 500E, E420
Originally Posted by Shoomakan
AMGDave, check your email. :P
Checked & replied to. Sorry for the delay!

Old 05-10-2011, 02:04 AM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
Financial aide kicked in, I found a paycheck I never claimed (lolwut?) and yeah.

Got the alternator ordered, contemplating doing a raft of other repairs/upgrades now that the car is off the road and I've got a bit of funds to play with.
Old 05-10-2011, 11:09 PM
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Anyone have any suggestions for any "while you're at it" type work while the headgasket/alternator/valve cover gasket/valve seals/exhaust+intake manifold gaskets are being done?
Old 05-23-2011, 03:55 PM
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limped the car home to NJ. Going to get the head off thurs. Provided its not totally shot, i'm resolved to go through with fixing it. If not, it looks like I may be able to grab a c230k coupe, in burgundy.

looks like the front gasket where the timing chain is let go. Oil is spraying from there. That's what apparently did my alternator in.
Old 05-24-2011, 02:50 AM
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I sent you a PM, but whatever...

Most heads come with a little ridge inside the ports where the moulds joined. It's usually no more than 2 mm thick. Get a grinder, polish it up.

I did that on my old KA-24-DE (Nissan 240SX DOHC) and it picked up nicely. It's something you can do yourself, if you're careful and have a steady hand.

Oh, and about the C230K Coupe:

My girlfriend has one. They're stiffer than our cars, stock. Much more economical, although a bit slower. A nice one with a nice set of wheels and most importantly a 6 speed manual is in my opinion the best little high class RWD car you can buy.

My only problem with the thing is the damn noise of the actual powerplant. It sounds very coarse.

The W124 feels MUCH more planted, though. And it has aged better. And it has LSD. :P

And you can fix it for cheaper. And it's more significant. And it has a gem of an engine. And, and, and.....
Old 05-26-2011, 01:05 AM
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I'll ask about polishing, I'm reading porting can kill low-end torque because of decreased velocity. Want more tq :P

Stiffer is nice, the gas mileage (reading 34ish?) is awesome. Slower? Surprising the 2002 2.3l SC is rated for 7.5 0-60 and Benz is typically conservative. Should be much faster than Bucky has been in recent times (0-60 in 14s :P ).

Have not found any manuals, just the 722.6, but whatever, its a step up from what I'm rocking anyway I'm sure.

Coarse as in how? Strained? Or just not smooth like the m104?

Yeah, the weight of the w124 does offer it a lot of presence on the road. I rather like it. A bit more stiffening to control lean/roll and I think I'll be set with it.

LSD?! I certainly do NOT have one. Been trying to figure out what car has the 210mm 3.27 carrier I'd need for easiest swap.

Cheaper? In terms of what? Relays and such are still a killer on the w124. Significant... Yes, maybe. The c230k doesn't give me that smile when I stand back and look at it. The w124 coupe is just a gorgeous piece of kit. I need to shape it more to what I envision, but its nearly there.

Yeah, I'm rather enthralled with the sound of the m104, especially when I had the open exhaust. Brutal, clean, and aggressive. Too damned loud though, needed ear plugs over 15mph :[

I know, I'm stuck on this damned car. I'm such a ****ing loyalist, its not even funny. I can jump 12 years into the future, have the hot-hatch I always lusted after, have a blown engine (in the good way!), and have bolt on stuff for ECU/etc from places like Kleemann yet I'm still dragging my feet and reluctant.

What the **** is wrong with me?
Old 05-26-2011, 05:33 AM
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Slower than MY W124. :P

I drag raced my girl before and after the tranny swap. With the auto, it was close but I pull a car length ahead at the quarter.

After the swap, almost double the distance.

I need to take a video of a nice 2-3rd gear roll. Mine isn't modified in any way besides de-catting.

It doesn't sound smooth. Clickety, I don't know how to explain it... Don't get me wrong, it's a great car. I just enjoy driving my car more, and on many occasions I drive both of them in the same day.

Dude, LSDs are a dime a dozen over here for our cars. 160$ for the diff. I'm sure you can find them there as well.
Old 05-26-2011, 10:16 AM
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Ah, do you have the 3.4l or was that Chlippo?

Have any slips for that race, or was it more informal? I'd like to compare to the slips I have for my 300ce.

Videos are always good :P According to the Benz service book, de-catting on the m104 is good for taking 0-60 from 7.8s to 7.5s (+- .3s). Pretty cool stuff. Have you change the engine timing retard by adjusting the EZL trim switch/resistor cap?

Ah, okay. So far from the youtube videos I'm watching, it actually sounds pretty nice. I can hear the SC whine (which I love so that doesn't bother me). Does your GF have the 2.3L m111 or the 1.8L m272? The m111 was only in the 2002 I believe. I like the idea of the m111 as its been around since the w124, and has (apparently) less computer control and "nanny" issues than the fuel system + ECU of the m272.

There also appear to be some mods for the m111, so that could potentially make it a fun platform for me.

Are you talking factory LSDs or aftermarket or what? They're hard to find here, especially the 210mm 3.27. As far as I know, only the 300ce in 90 had it in the US, and maybe an SL or an S-Class around the same time. I think I'm convinced from what I read from AMGDave that the Quaife is the way to go, but I don't know what unit to get and I'd need to find a shop that has the skillz for that.
Old 05-26-2011, 04:12 PM
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No, I've got the 3.0 M104, same as yours. No, it was informal. Approximately 400 meters, seaside boulevard we all drag at here. :P

Yes, I've played with the timing slightly, but I didn't notice much of a difference. My car doesn't have the EZL trim switch. JayRash and I found that very odd!

My girl has the 2.3l m111. It's a good torquey engine, same power as the 1.8 with slightly more torque. Like you said, bigger and better upgrades though. Today we were discussing chipping it and getting it a smaller S/C pulley.

Factory LSD's. If all you want is the inner gearing, I can and will send it to you. Although I believe 3.27 wasn't imported here. Mine is a 3.65 or thereabouts. My fifth gear isn't an overdrive with the manual tranny.

The entire diff costs between 150 and 180$, I believe. I can take it apart and send you the parts, but I have no idea how much it'll cost to ship. I think it'll be way cheaper than spending 900-1000$ on a new diff, though. Way cheaper.

Look, the C230K is a good car, don't get me wrong. I just don't find it to be worth it if it wasn't a manual, and they have made 6 speed versions of that car. It's small RWD hatchback with decent power, they don't really make those anymore.

Hell, besides the new 1 series I can't think of a better RWD little hot hatch. The E46 mini coupe thing maybe, but I believe it was weaker. Infinitely more moddable, though.
Old 05-27-2011, 10:39 AM
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AFAIK, there was never any LSD in the USA for 3.27 gears in a 210mm carrier. Worldwide, yes, but not USA. The Quaife only fits 2.65/2.82/3.06 gears without shimming (not recommended)... pretty sure we already discussed this earlier in the thread?

If you want 3.27 LSD you'll need the factory unit, either new ($$$$) or sourcing a used one overseas. All you need is the center carrier, but remember that a used one will need new clutches (~$300 + labor) prior to installation. The carrier weighs about 20 lbs packed and is fairly small, so if someone could find one for you across the pond, it may not be too expensive to ship. But figure $300 delivered, plus $300+ for a refresh, plus labor if you don't DIY, and the price goes up quick.

I'm also not sure how long the clutch pack will survive with autox use; if it wears quickly you'll not be a happy camper. I'd go with 3.06+Quaife for that application.


BTW, 124 relays are dirt cheap via Pick-n-Pull or fleaBay. Please tell me you're not buying new ones...!



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