E500
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From: UAE
As listed in my sign
E500
My friend faced heat problem with his E500 1992, he changed the radiator and the thermo (71 degree ) but still the temp over 100, what he can do, as i know the US Mercedes comes with large radiator that the German car.
Any help well be appreciate
Any help well be appreciate
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 134
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From: Southern California
1994 E500
Re: E500
Originally posted by MKB-C32
My friend faced heat problem with his E500 1992, he changed the radiator and the thermo (71 degree ) but still the temp over 100, what he can do, as i know the US Mercedes comes with large radiator that the German car.
Any help well be appreciate
My friend faced heat problem with his E500 1992, he changed the radiator and the thermo (71 degree ) but still the temp over 100, what he can do, as i know the US Mercedes comes with large radiator that the German car.
Any help well be appreciate
MercedesShop
There is a wealth of 500E/E500 information there. If you can't find the answer in the archives, someone should be able to help you out. Good luck! High temps are the curse of all 500E owners.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 33
From: Germany
'00 S320 W220, '98 A160 W168/ sold in 2005 '86 260 E W124 '90 260E W124
Have you guys checked the fluid coupling of the radiator fan? I had the same problem with my 6 cyl. engine. I guess the V8 comes with the fluid coupling arrangement as the I6. To test this baby is a problem for those who do not have stroboscobe on hand. Normally the fan runs at idle speed or about 1500rpm at normal temp. conditions. If it gets hotter the liquid in the fluid coupling couples up the pulley and the fan to increase fan speed to about 3000rpm max. If the liquid coupling is bad than this speed will not be reached or at least too late and the engine temp. rises. Exchanging the fluid coupling is no big deal. It's just a one bolt in the center. Not even the belt has to be taken off.
Another do-it-your-self test is to turn the fan when the engine is COLD and NOT running. Push the fan, and if it turns further than 180 degrees on its own, it's a bad sign for the condition of the fluid coupling.
Watch out, all I'm describing here goes for thr I6 engines, but I'm pretty sure this goes also for th V8's
Another do-it-your-self test is to turn the fan when the engine is COLD and NOT running. Push the fan, and if it turns further than 180 degrees on its own, it's a bad sign for the condition of the fluid coupling.
Watch out, all I'm describing here goes for thr I6 engines, but I'm pretty sure this goes also for th V8's
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 21
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From: Milford, NH
The problem with the viscous fan coupling is it does not come on
until 110C.
There is an easy $1 modification you can make to the High speed electric fan to lower its cut-in point by putting a resistor in parallel with the existing ECT aux fan sensor. This changes the temp/resistor specs for high fan to come on at 95-100C, dependent on R value.
Works well , but the 500 are hot running and many guys are going to electric puller fan in place of the viscous. The advantage here is even if the viscous is in lock , you still have low air flow at idle, and that is where you are most prone to over heat [ high thermal load in traffic].
until 110C.
There is an easy $1 modification you can make to the High speed electric fan to lower its cut-in point by putting a resistor in parallel with the existing ECT aux fan sensor. This changes the temp/resistor specs for high fan to come on at 95-100C, dependent on R value.
Works well , but the 500 are hot running and many guys are going to electric puller fan in place of the viscous. The advantage here is even if the viscous is in lock , you still have low air flow at idle, and that is where you are most prone to over heat [ high thermal load in traffic].
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 21
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From: Milford, NH
Originally posted by MKB-C32
Dear Arthur Dalton
What’s the OHM and the watt of the resistor and if you can drew me a simple graph where and how to do this mode
Dear Arthur Dalton
What’s the OHM and the watt of the resistor and if you can drew me a simple graph where and how to do this mode
are not stable at temp variants], 1500-1800 ohm.
Value is to suit your needs - lower value= lower fan cut-in.
Don't go too low , as you over-tax the fan/alt, etc..
R goes in parallel [ across ] the ECT sensor 2 wires [ simple solder job at the connector]
ETC is the Blue temp sensor at the thermostat housing area..
This is the Aux fan sensor for coolant temp...
All is the R does is to lower the OHMS of the sensor [ resulting in fooling the computer for fan cut-in point]
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