E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

why is it always me who has to bring up boring topics..

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Old 10-27-2006, 07:14 PM
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why is it always me who has to bring up boring topics..

Hiya,
I'm in the process of planning a new stereo setup for my 1994 W124.. I am a bit glad that I don't have the door speakers (weird ain't it?) to deal with..

I already have an AVI 12" subwoofer in the trunk of my car (see pics).. However, it is powered by a ridiculous 350w MBQuart 2ch amplifier..





What kind of amplifier would you guys recommend for the sub? I'm in the market for something not too dear but would still power the sub to its full potential.

As mentioned earlier, my car has a total of 4 speakers (front and rear deck) and 2 aftermarket tweeters. Since the speakers are all knackered I would like to upgrade them to something better, but have no idea yet since I am not sure about the sizes (I've been searching but there seems to be no definite answer ) I was wondering, would I need to run two extra 2 channel amps to power the upgraded front and rear speakers (Since I would already have the MBQuart 2ch amp lying around, I would only have to buy another 2ch amp, hence saves $$)? If so, I would be running 3 amps in my car.. Will the stock W124 need any modifications?

Oh, just to note. I'm probably going to buy the headunit pictured below. Does it support all the 3 amps? It's model KD-552 or something along those lines (the touchscreen JVC)..



Lastly, I read about the factory amplifier in the W124s. I'm really not sure if I have such a thing.. How do I find out and how do I bypass it? Also, is there likely to be any difficulty in the install of this proposed system?

Any input is grately appreciated.. Any recommendations as to my speaker choices and amp choices are also very welcomed..

Jeff
Old 10-27-2006, 07:41 PM
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W124, 320E, 1995.
In my opinion:

1) For your Sub, get a clas "D" aplifier with a minimum of 500 watts RMS (Make sure the watts are RMS and not "Peak"). WITH EXTERNAL REMOTE VOLUME CONTROL

2) for your spekers if you go with an European brand (Ex. Focal, Swiss Audio, ect) they will be a direct fit in size since they come Metric Size.
if you go with an American or Standar speaker you will need some fabrication to make the speakers fit properly. MAKE SURE ALL 4 SPEAKERS ARE THE SAME BRAND AND SAME LINE.

3) To run all four speakers get a 4 channel amp. (if you want to use the the 2 channel amp you have, run the fron speakers with the amp and the rear speakers with the power from the stereo).

4) You stereo will work with 1,2 3, 4 ,5...or 50 amplifiers, that is not a problem but when it comes to audio running 3 amps is nopt a very good idea un less they are the same brand and type, so they will produce the same armonic voice or peach, the same is thrue with your speakers.

5) 2 AMPS are not a problem with 3 amps you may have to upgrade the alternator, which can be real pain.

6) An additional recomendation would be to use top hgrade RCA cables for the amps as well as power and ground wire in 4ga. in your speakers use some good "Oxygen Free" 16ga wire; and in your sub use also "Oxygen Free" 12ga wire.

7) To have greater control in the audio distribution and quallity, you can get a Parametric equalizer, this is up to you.

I hope that my recomendations are usefull to you, again this is only my opinion and I am sure all the forum mebers can give you great advice!!
Old 10-27-2006, 08:04 PM
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Does your sub make good popcorn? It looks like a microwave. I wish I had answers for you, but I don't know a thing about car audio.
I guess I just have to comment on everything I see.

Maybe it's the Torret's Syndrome kicking in.
Old 10-27-2006, 11:31 PM
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1990 300ce 24v I6
I am also toying with the idea of just upgrading the speakers in my car as of right now. I am going for Rockford Fosgate t142c (front deck) and t152c (rear deck) speakers because they are supposedly a direct fit replacement for the speakers that are currently there. Of course, my current head unit probably cant power them but I plan on getting a new becker Mexico Pro (really hard to get for reasonable money) which will be able to power the speakers even without and amp. Thats just my 2cents. I also dont plan to have any sub-woofers at all. I dont need any boom-boom, just what the rockfords will be able to put out on their own.
Old 10-28-2006, 01:14 AM
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If you want to use your sub to its full potential, figure out its RMS... say its 350watts... get a 400watt class d mono amplifier and call it a day.. as for the speakers.. i recommend you sell the 2 channel amp and put the money towards a 6 channel amp... allows for future upgrades in case you want more? Anyway, im curious as to how your touch screen will perform... i just bought a clarion dxz855mp touchscreen and its great!
Old 10-28-2006, 07:43 AM
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Thank you all for the replies.. blackdog's suggestions are great I might just power the rear speakers off the headunit..

However, do I have to bypass the factory amp and is it compulsory for me to change the speaker wires and power wires etc?

Oh and I've just been on eBay and saw some Monoblock amps there. There's one called "The Loudest" http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3000w-Subwoofe...QQcmdZViewItem 3000w with RMS 1000w... Will this work in my car along with my 2ch amp? I am trying to stay away from upgrading the alternator.

Cheers
Jeff

Last edited by jeffreyli86; 10-28-2006 at 07:58 AM.
Old 10-28-2006, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by JrJammin
If you want to use your sub to its full potential, figure out its RMS... say its 350watts... get a 400watt class d mono amplifier and call it a day.. as for the speakers.. i recommend you sell the 2 channel amp and put the money towards a 6 channel amp... allows for future upgrades in case you want more? Anyway, im curious as to how your touch screen will perform... i just bought a clarion dxz855mp touchscreen and its great!

Cheers. Will do.. What's a good (and cheap) monoblock amp?
About the headunit, I'm sure yours would be better.. I always prefer Clarion over JVC..

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