Timing resistor
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the resistor value is changing the ignition timing a little. It's not worth playing with it. If the gas qualitiy is varying you are fine with the factory setting. If you are swapping to premium only you can change the resistor setting towards "S" but the changes in fuel economy and performance are not convincing at all.
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For the European style no tools are required to change the timing. Just pull the plug and turn it step by step. One step is 6 degrees of timing change (if I'm not mistaken, don't hold me accountable for that)
Last edited by bamberger_1; Dec 15, 2006 at 10:12 AM.
i'll finish this tank with it out, looking real closely at the temp gauge. initial opinion----performance increase so slight it's not worth it, but, the starting improvement is good, and if the mpg improves & NO temp increase I'll keep it out, otherwise I'll put it back....will report in a day or two, when tank is finished and I can judge MPG....
1. buy from Major suppliers only, no Mom & Pop's, no Race-trac (that's spec.gas bought on spot market w/o any additives)
2. buy at HIGH-VOLUME stations, for fresh gas
3. if you can... but at company stations, due to strict testing and frequent tank sumping (less water/trash issues)
and 4. never buy when the tanker is there dumping a new load off, stir the junk up that settles at the bottom of the tank....
fortunately, there are many refineries here, so the distance from refiner, to distribution point, to station is shorter& the fuel is a bit fresher....(days old, not a few months!)
, valve timing and ignition timing are seperate things...while the ign. timing will advance +6deg from reference, it will still respond to knock sensor and pre-set timing curve. valve timing is adjusted through other means, and is usually just a overlap duration variable for torque enhancement.
, valve timing and ignition timing are seperate things...while the ign. timing will advance +6deg from reference, it will still respond to knock sensor and pre-set timing curve. valve timing is adjusted through other means, and is usually just a overlap duration variable for torque enhancement.It also has variable valve timing but that's got nothing to do with the ignition.
I don't see why a resistor would be needed if the engine (like the M104) has a knock sensor. After all, the function of the knock sensor is to set the timing on-the-fly to an optimal point just before knocking begins, depending on the gasoline (octane) running through the system.
I wish there was some definitive answer out there written in some reputable book or even a forum. Reading through the threads on this subject on mercedesshop, it seems like some see results, and others don't. No one really knows the best way to go. Hmm...
Ideally you want 10-12 degrees initial advance to get the most efficient burn.. These resistors set the timing around 3-4 degrees initial...ie, Far from ideal.
On all my CISE cars (103/117/116) I remove or fiddle w/ the R16 to get my 12 degrees initial..always helps down low

Jonathan
My advice: Leave it alone. The placebo effect is hard at work here...
Ideally you want 10-12 degrees initial advance to get the most efficient burn.. These resistors set the timing around 3-4 degrees initial...ie, Far from ideal.
On all my CISE cars (103/117/116) I remove or fiddle w/ the R16 to get my 12 degrees initial..always helps down low

Jonathan
Last edited by bjay51d; Dec 19, 2006 at 05:48 PM.


