Ok so i took my lowered 300E to my local alignment shop....they told me to take it to the Mercedes Stealership so they can use the "Sandbag" weights to do it correctly.

I called teh dealership and they said they wont touch it because the number of miles and the age. THe Service writer said "It will most likely need parts" i told him I just rebuilt teh front end...Struts, tie rods, bushings, springs, also did the same on the rear. He then said they definately wouldnt touch it because "Denuine Mercedes parts werent used because I did not buy them from teh dealership". What an ***......I bought Genuine oem tie-rods from ebay.

I took teh car back to my local alignment shop where my usual alignment tech. was on duty, (this guy is amazing, he put my Ford/Cosworth SVT Contour back into specs when no one sles could!) he put it on teh rack and couldnt find the right chassis code on the car to match the computer. The computer had like 35 different 124.XXX.XXX codes but none that matched mine.

ANY IDEA WHERE THE CHASSIS CODE COULD BE? We used the number on the inside of the drivers door pilllar.

 

isn't there a data plate on the top of radiator support? next to the hood latch?

 

Come on!!! I know someone knows

 

Yeah, my stuff is on the driver pillar. I donno what that means if the computer cant find a match for that one....

 

Take it to a tire shop that also does suspension work or take it to a pep boys, they'll align just about anything if it isn't lowered too much.

 

I wouldnt trust pepboys to even put my car on the rack more less align the thing!

 

x1,000,000

 

I took my car to the alignment shop, a fancy 4way laser guided deal. I bought OEM struts and told them to replace ANY part that was worn w/ OEM stuff. I also told them I wanted it aligned with the proper air pressure in the tires. They said they use 35psi for ALL cars, apparently they know more than the manufacturers know. Afterward I was at dealer for brake fluid change and they showed me a worn tie rod, it also had wrench marks on it like someone (gee I wonder who) had tried to adjust it, even with a torn boot. They suggested a new tie rod and talked about the alignment problems the tweaked tie rod would/could cause. I also had brand new tires. So, my lesson is sometimes the dealership IS the best place to go. They would have installed all OEM parts, I decided not to bother going back to the other shop and dealing with them, I paid the huge sum of $79.95 and had it done right.
always another lesson to learn...
kurt
1993 300CE Sportline

 

the dealer charged you $80 for a four wheel alignment?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

 

the dealer charged you $80 for a four wheel alignment?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

Yes. Same as the body shop/alignment shop.
I suppose all your "?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?" means you can get it done MUCH cheaper. In this area, that's the going rate for a 4wheel alignment, printout of the driveshaft angles to the diff etc.
kurt

 

No, my ?!?!?!?!?!?! meant that I thought that was a great price! I think that most performance shops here in Houston charge around $200 for a good 4 wheel alignment. Firestone charges $69 for their POS alignment.

 

I hear that.

I was quoted $160ish for a four wheel alignment.

 

I took your comment to the negative side...thank you for responding. I apologize if i came back harshly.
I never rule out pricing the dealer...you just never know.
Thanks!
kurt

 

No apology needed, I didn't take it that way at all.

 

Well, if you live in southern california the guy that services my benz does my 4 wheel alignment for 60 bucks and my car is lowered, his work is always perfect

Some places will quite you 60-80 then tell you that it will cost double if your car is lowered, this seems like a scam to me . . .