Tie Rod / Center Link / Idler Arm - are these DYI???
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 229
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio, Texas
2006 E500 AMG PKG/2010 Camaro SS/RS - 2007 F-150 - 2007 Suburban
Tie Rod / Center Link / Idler Arm - are these DYI???
OKAY - Please DO NOT kick my as$ for asking a couple of questions that may or may not have been asked.... just want your opinion....
Getting some work done on the 400. Informed my loose steering and the knocking in the front end on bumps is due to worn tie rods/center link and idler arm (idler arm? - sounds strange). Can I get these parts and do it myself?
I am pretty good at DYI stuff - but have never messed with the front end.
Mechanic (who I trust a great deal) quoted me $390.00 for parts & Labor.
Good price?
Easy enough to do myself?
Part deux - I need new front rotors - mine are warped out of spec - bad vibration on breaking. For rotors - I would imagine they can be removed just like any other rear wheel drive car. I am almost positive i removed the ones off my 400E back in 1999 - I know I did the brakes myself.
Are the rotors on e-bay any good? Drilled versus non drilled?
Thanks
BTW - there is a 500E for sale 20 miles from my house - if you have a spare arm and/or leg - it can be yours!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...90298808QQrdZ1
'Wip
Getting some work done on the 400. Informed my loose steering and the knocking in the front end on bumps is due to worn tie rods/center link and idler arm (idler arm? - sounds strange). Can I get these parts and do it myself?
I am pretty good at DYI stuff - but have never messed with the front end.
Mechanic (who I trust a great deal) quoted me $390.00 for parts & Labor.
Good price?
Easy enough to do myself?
Part deux - I need new front rotors - mine are warped out of spec - bad vibration on breaking. For rotors - I would imagine they can be removed just like any other rear wheel drive car. I am almost positive i removed the ones off my 400E back in 1999 - I know I did the brakes myself.
Are the rotors on e-bay any good? Drilled versus non drilled?
Thanks
BTW - there is a 500E for sale 20 miles from my house - if you have a spare arm and/or leg - it can be yours!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...90298808QQrdZ1
'Wip
Last edited by Koolwipski; Mar 5, 2007 at 04:21 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Houston,TX
2001 W208A
YES, it's all DIY.....before you get complete tie-rod assy, check if you just need one end...you can but inner, outer, or both with tie-rod attached... be sure to count exposed threads on old set up and match the new on....it will be close (you will still need alignment afterwards..
you will need a tie-rod fork and heavy hammer to remove old ones (called a pickle fork, avail cheap <$10>at NorthernTool, HarbourFreight, ect or maybe AutoZone will loan one)...center Drag link is easy too, might go ahead and get steering damper shock at same time<$35>...Idler-arm is a bit harder, but still OK...it's the link opposite the Steering link (it's on pass. side vs driver side) GET UNDER CAR (use jack stands vs ramps) and it will all make sense...LH vs RH threads (if you go with just the tie-rod end) is ref. to how end screws INTO the tie-rod. check out autohausaz.com.
good luck, about 2hrs......oh, rotors are no biggie either.....
you DO have a torque wrench, right?.....
this pic was when I did mine, btw......so easy a Caveman could do it (or even a 2 y/o....
you will need a tie-rod fork and heavy hammer to remove old ones (called a pickle fork, avail cheap <$10>at NorthernTool, HarbourFreight, ect or maybe AutoZone will loan one)...center Drag link is easy too, might go ahead and get steering damper shock at same time<$35>...Idler-arm is a bit harder, but still OK...it's the link opposite the Steering link (it's on pass. side vs driver side) GET UNDER CAR (use jack stands vs ramps) and it will all make sense...LH vs RH threads (if you go with just the tie-rod end) is ref. to how end screws INTO the tie-rod. check out autohausaz.com.
good luck, about 2hrs......oh, rotors are no biggie either.....
you DO have a torque wrench, right?.....
this pic was when I did mine, btw......so easy a Caveman could do it (or even a 2 y/o....
Last edited by marco402; Mar 5, 2007 at 03:50 PM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Washington, the State
1993 300CE Sportline
dealer price
I am taking my 93 CE to the dealer for a rightside tie-rod replacement and 4 way alignment. I posted some time ago about the problems at an independent shop. They just didn't want to follow the book. 
They said they always set the air pressure in tires at 35psi no matter what the manufacturer notes. Now after 7500 miles i have some tire wear and clunking sounds. They did not even replace the tie-rod end with the torn boot. Soooo, I'll try the dealer. I'll post with the costs, maybe that will help you decide. I was quoted $79.95 for the 4 way alignment. I'll soon find out the cost of the tie-rod.
kurt
1993 300CE Sportline
1967 230S 4 speed
They said they always set the air pressure in tires at 35psi no matter what the manufacturer notes. Now after 7500 miles i have some tire wear and clunking sounds. They did not even replace the tie-rod end with the torn boot. Soooo, I'll try the dealer. I'll post with the costs, maybe that will help you decide. I was quoted $79.95 for the 4 way alignment. I'll soon find out the cost of the tie-rod.kurt
1993 300CE Sportline
1967 230S 4 speed
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 509
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, GA and Richmond, VA
1991 300E
i bought my tie-rods off of ebay for like 50 bucks including shipping. they were made by sachs, so they are oem grade. some little merc shop here in richmond put them in for 70$. Honestly, i don't know if that would be a diy.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 1
From: Orange County, California
1993 040 500E
Not a tough job.
My only comment is do not use the pickel fork. Instead invest in the proper Mercedes tool to remove the tierod ends. You should be able to purchase one from Mac Tool or Proto or somebody like that.
I have used the pickle fork which beats the hell out of the suspension when you start hammering. Also if you ever want to remove a tierod and replace it without damage to the rubber grease cup you need the correct tool. If you use the pickle fork you damage the rubber and it has to be replaced.
You might spend a little more for the MB tool but if you plan on doing more work on your present car or maybe another one it is a good investment.
Take Care
My only comment is do not use the pickel fork. Instead invest in the proper Mercedes tool to remove the tierod ends. You should be able to purchase one from Mac Tool or Proto or somebody like that.
I have used the pickle fork which beats the hell out of the suspension when you start hammering. Also if you ever want to remove a tierod and replace it without damage to the rubber grease cup you need the correct tool. If you use the pickle fork you damage the rubber and it has to be replaced.
You might spend a little more for the MB tool but if you plan on doing more work on your present car or maybe another one it is a good investment.
Take Care
