Help Please!!
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Almost a Member!
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Kentucky
1992 300E 3.0 liter White Ext. Gray Int.
Help Please!!
Okay...so heres the down low. THe other day i was driving and i put my back right window down for a little while to let some breeze in. Well, sometime later i tried to put it back up, and the window wouldnt budge. It would go down and up, but only up to the spot where i had left it. I put it all the way down and tried to see if it would ge all the way up, but again it stopped short about two inches from closing. It did this time an time again, so being the ignorant person i am, i put the window all the way down, and rocked the switch back and forth while the window was in its lowest position in the door. Well....guess what happened. I guess the window came off whatever device raises and lowers it, because i can hear it in the door, but it wont move any. So heres my question.
Anybody ever had this happen to them?
Anyone know how to get the back door panel off?
Once its off, is this going to be hard to fix?
Thanks
Anybody ever had this happen to them?
Anyone know how to get the back door panel off?
Once its off, is this going to be hard to fix?
Thanks
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,042
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From: Bellevue, NE
1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold) 2007 CLK350 Cabriolet 2014 ML550
http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/W124DoorPanel
This is for front and rear doors so read it to the end before you start. Let us know how it goes.
This is for front and rear doors so read it to the end before you start. Let us know how it goes.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,042
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From: Bellevue, NE
1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold) 2007 CLK350 Cabriolet 2014 ML550
Yes. I tried to follow this procedure once and everything I touched broke off. Silicon sealant works well for gluing everything back together. The procedure tells you to start at the front and gently pry it off, but good luck. Just be careful with it and it should come off. The problem is that these cars are biodegradable and everything becomes brittle with age.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Anaheim, CA
a TVR Cerbera Speed Twelve
Originally Posted by shdoug
Yes. I tried to follow this procedure once and everything I touched broke off. Silicon sealant works well for gluing everything back together. The procedure tells you to start at the front and gently pry it off, but good luck. Just be careful with it and it should come off. The problem is that these cars are biodegradable and everything becomes brittle with age.
Thread Starter
Almost a Member!
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Kentucky
1992 300E 3.0 liter White Ext. Gray Int.
Good news!! and bad new i guess.
Well I gathered up some courage and attempted to remove the door panel. I used the directions on the website above. Even tho they were for the front doors, they were still great. The black trim came off easy. And unclipping the door handle was a snap. And eventually, with some force, the door panel was pulled up and out. However, it took a little more umph then i expected. And heres a note to everyone that tries to take the rear panel off. MAKE SURE, you remove the ash try from the panel first. There's two J clips on those that are the opposite direction as the ones on the panel. Which is why the door panel was so hard to pull up. So the only thing I ended up breaking was on of the J clips on the ashtray. Other then that...removing the panel went much smoother then I imagined.
As far as the window. Id never taken the panel off one of these cars before so I didnt know what to expect as far as the system used to raise and lower the window. There is a cable inside that raises and lowers the, I guess you could say "cradle", that the window lies in. This cable has two ends both with springs at the tip. Well, the end that runs up over a pulley in the top of the door and pulls the window up...is loose inside. There were a few pieces laying inside the door at the bottom so I am not sure what the deal is. So...feeling pretty proud of myself for actually getting the panel off in decent fashion. I decided I would just take the car up to the dealership, and let them figure it out. But to all that are thinking about removing a panel. Its okay, just take your time and follow the directions on that website. THanks for all the help!
Well I gathered up some courage and attempted to remove the door panel. I used the directions on the website above. Even tho they were for the front doors, they were still great. The black trim came off easy. And unclipping the door handle was a snap. And eventually, with some force, the door panel was pulled up and out. However, it took a little more umph then i expected. And heres a note to everyone that tries to take the rear panel off. MAKE SURE, you remove the ash try from the panel first. There's two J clips on those that are the opposite direction as the ones on the panel. Which is why the door panel was so hard to pull up. So the only thing I ended up breaking was on of the J clips on the ashtray. Other then that...removing the panel went much smoother then I imagined.
As far as the window. Id never taken the panel off one of these cars before so I didnt know what to expect as far as the system used to raise and lower the window. There is a cable inside that raises and lowers the, I guess you could say "cradle", that the window lies in. This cable has two ends both with springs at the tip. Well, the end that runs up over a pulley in the top of the door and pulls the window up...is loose inside. There were a few pieces laying inside the door at the bottom so I am not sure what the deal is. So...feeling pretty proud of myself for actually getting the panel off in decent fashion. I decided I would just take the car up to the dealership, and let them figure it out. But to all that are thinking about removing a panel. Its okay, just take your time and follow the directions on that website. THanks for all the help!
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From: Houston,TX
2001 W208A
that's the part that always break on the 124's...the plastic 'rail guide' on the vertical rail gets brittle with age....and that is where the 2 cable ends connect with a small cover piece....there is no good fix.....and i haven't found a replacement slider either.....btw....after the cable got loose, it slipped on the motor drum, kinked, and thats why the cable jams before full travel was reached.....also the top pulley will allow the cable to come out if constant tension isnt applied, so the other side of the cable is messed up in the motor drum too!!!!......new regulator time....I raised my window, and tied the loose "UP" cable end to the rail (tie-wraps
), removed one of the window power leads (its on the exterior, 2 wire block) and just keep that window up until $$ is found for new regulator....beside---that the car-seat position, so I don't use it anyway
good luck....
), removed one of the window power leads (its on the exterior, 2 wire block) and just keep that window up until $$ is found for new regulator....beside---that the car-seat position, so I don't use it anyway good luck....
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Thread Starter
Almost a Member!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
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From: Kentucky
1992 300E 3.0 liter White Ext. Gray Int.
CraP!! Lol, last time I went to the dealership I asked them what was wrong with my front right window, an they said prolly a regulator, which is a couple hundred dollars apparently. But my front right wont go down at all...how is that, if it has the same problem as my back window.
And the back window would go down before I banged on it and pushed and pulled, yea yea, i know guys...bad idea. But it was getting ready to rain really hard and I was pretty desperate. So....you think that regulator is bad??
RIght now I still have the door panel off and I just ran some wire down beside the window and have it hooked to the bottom of the window with a J. Then I bent the other end around the cut out in the door. So thats what holding it for now....
Hmm....so if I dont have the money to fix it...does anybody know of a good way to rig up the window hardware and make it stay in the up position??
And the back window would go down before I banged on it and pushed and pulled, yea yea, i know guys...bad idea. But it was getting ready to rain really hard and I was pretty desperate. So....you think that regulator is bad??
RIght now I still have the door panel off and I just ran some wire down beside the window and have it hooked to the bottom of the window with a J. Then I bent the other end around the cut out in the door. So thats what holding it for now....
Hmm....so if I dont have the money to fix it...does anybody know of a good way to rig up the window hardware and make it stay in the up position??
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 717
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From: Manassas, VA, USA
2011 VW cc, 2004 ML350
The front ones are less expensive as it's a scissor type with a detachable motor. The rears do have to be replaced totally. Getting the panel off is the hardest part of the job. Well, other than paying for the regulator assembly it is. I paid about $330 for my right rear, and it only took about an hour total to install.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Anaheim, CA
a TVR Cerbera Speed Twelve
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 118
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From: Edmonton
300 E
so many people have has this problem already havent they.. i can totally remember reading and writing about this...
happened to mine as well...
save yourself the trouble and get someone else to fix it
happened to mine as well...
save yourself the trouble and get someone else to fix it
