I know from having done several vintage Mustang restorations that you need to be VERY careful about how you configure a custom exhaust so it does not acoustically drone at a given RPM withing the car. Flowmaster is a great muffler manufacturer, but is famous for droning exhausts that sound awesome OUTSIDE the car, but are too loud IN the car.

In the case of my V8 powered car (makes a difference) it may be necessary to retain a resonator to keep that from happening. I have the original CAT on my car, and with 157K miles on it, it is waaay past the point where it should be replaced. Likely it is clogged and is causing at least some restriction. So, running a Magnaflow Spincast CAT with a similar configuration to what 2Phast did on his E500 seems like a pretty good bet. One thing he did that I will not do is add several bends at the end to get the tips tucked under the valance. I think I will trim the valance so the pipes get more of a straight exit path. Bends = losses in flow = less power. The other thing he did was go 3" from the CAT back. I will go no more than 2.5", which is considered ideal for any engine with less than 5.4 liters displacement in terms of backpressure, which equals torque.

 

Hey Chris, care to share what you are intending to run...my fellow E420 pilot???

 

Thank you! People just don't seem to understand you can't just pick any size tubing for your exhaust. I've been thinking about getting a full system on my 94 e320...however, for now, I think I'll just eliminate the resonator. You seem to know your stuff on exhaust...so here's one for ya.

I'm looking for a deep, low tone that you can still hear at idle. But I don't want it to sound like some fart can on a honda civic. What should I do with the cats? Any ideas on muffler's that produce this sound that won't run my wallet out? LOL

 

My opinion:

I don't know what your budget is, but I can tell you that almost all of the sound you are describing is accomplished at/through the rearmost muffler and with the tips you run.

For the health of what I assume is a pretty stock six cylinder, you should be sure your CAT is clear, so it offers no restriction. Replace a worn one with either stock/stock replica or go with the correct fitting one from a company like Magnaflow. Be sure you understand how many sensors (i.e. o2, etc.) and that it is a three-way converter. Magnaflow's site goes into detail about these specifics. From the cat, you should probably be running nothing larger than 2" pipe all the way to the muffler. This will ensure you maintain proper backpressure. naturally aspirated six cylinders typically make better torque than horsepower numbers, and backpressure will ensure you keep/improve your torque-based performance.

I agree that the resonator can be omitted, BUT, it might be a good idea to install some Dynapad onto the bottom of the floorplan directly above where the resonator was installed so that you don't get that acoustic guitar effect that the open space can create. This is why so many car owners that have cars equipped with custom exhaust systems complain of increased internal noise or "droning". Honestly, I doubt you will see much delta in performance by omitting the resonator due to flow restriction. You will realize a slight weight reduction and maybe some coin for not having to buy a resonator if yours is a rusty heap.

Now then, back to that deep resonate sound you are after: a good aftermarket universal muffler from Magnaflow, Flowmaster or Borla will give you a sweet sound. The key is to get it mounted as close to the tips at the rear of the vehicle as possible (for acoustics) and then to run balanced tips. By balanced tips I mean two tips no larger in diameter than your primary exuast pipe diameter of 2", and with equal length pipe from the muffler body to the tip. One last thing: for V8 and V6 cars, it is really important to run a cross-over or X pipe to balance the pressure pulses to the muffler and improve scavenging. In an inline six car, I don't know if it is possible or critical to do so.

Hope you find some help in all that blabbering.

 

I am going to get the car up on jacks in the morning. I was wondering if anyone had any tips/tricks as far as using the spring compressor? I am sure I can figure it out, but any help is always appreciated. I figure the brakes and shocks should be pretty straight forward, but I am open to any words of wisdom there too. I have been through the CD, several posts and other types of cars, but this will be my first time with this car.

Peace.

 

It's pretty basic stuff and you sound like you know what you're doing... I've put springs on many cars but i'm not really good at writing about it. I would start with the front and once you do one side the rest of the springs shouldn't take long to remove and install because you'll know what your doing by then.

The only other tools you may need is a pry bar and rubber mallet. Your going to have a hard time getting the discs/plates on the spring and taking them off too.

Well first you jack up the car...take wheels off .....etc.....

Slide the first disc on the very top of the spring, make sure it seats properly by using the prybar. The discs/plates should be far apart because if you put them too close you won't be able to take the spring out and you will need to compress it more. That sucks because you have to start all over. Also, make sure the top disc and the bottom have the same angle because then the center compressor part won't fit or will compress the spring in a bad angle. Basically just align the top plates with the bottom and leave a lot of space in the middle to compress the spring more.

 

I use my floor jack as a spring compressor.... When the car is on jack stands and the wheels are off, I place the jack underneath where the shock mounts to the A-arm. Apply some pressure, then remove the bolt on the top of the shock... and then you can lower it down a little bit, and then you remove the entire shock. If you continue to lower it down slowly you can safely remove the springs... I have done this a number of times and it works just as well as any spring compressor I have used. For the rear I use a similar method but I remove the Inboard bolt connected to the rear A-arm to allow the rear suspension to drop down.

Haven't had a problem yet using this system.

If you can handle a wrench, you will be able to do your mods no problem. There are no tricks to the suspension on this car. I'd be here for you but I am going skiing this week.

 

it took two days, but it's all in now...springs, shocks and new brakes all around! I wound up with about 1.5" of drop all around too...and it looks and drives saweeeeet! I expected the ride to be more harsh, but with the Vogtlands and Bilstein Sports, the ride is 30% stiffer but 95% as compliant as the stock setup was. Bonus!!!

Anyway, updated pics to follow as soon as I can get it cleaned and waxed. BTWP: the spring compressor worked perfectly and is now available for rent or sale. PM me if you are interested.

 

congrats man! pix pix pix!!! oh yeah, PM sent!

 

Glad to know the set up worked well Shannon.

Post some pictures damnit!

 

OK, Ok...quit yellin' at me man! LOL. It's still stoopid dirty, but at least this low-res pic will give you an idea of what the drop looks like. I'll be detailing the car and getting better pics today or tomorrow. Funny, because the chopped pic in my sig line isn't that far off!

 

nice drop man! shes looking RIGHT! ..what number spring pads are you using if you dont mind me asking...

 

those are stock pads (#4?) on Vogtland springs...all around. Thanks BTW.

 

Lookin good Shanman; LOVE your color & how rare it is... What color is your interior (black would be my choice)?

I just saw this thread - considering you're in Az, I would have recommended some michelin pilot sport tires. I had them on my 17's & loved them so much I bought them for my 18's... Last thing you want in bad weather though.

Hope you're going to continue with the mods - like getting a set of clear corners...

 

+1 on the clear corners. Get them at www.importvision.com

Anyways, Looks really good Shannon! but ditch those spring pads! I'm on 1 in the front and nothing in the rear.

 

lol yeah i want to dich them too... is it hard?

 

No its really easy. Get the MB specific spring compressor and take out the spring and you'll be able to remove the spring pad.

IMO, it's easier to remove the spring in the front than the rear.

 

Thanks for the kind words. The interior is gray...wish it was black, but the gray is Ok and pretty clean too.

Yes on the clear corners...yes on newer and/or better headlights...yes on headlight wiper delete...yes on E500 front swaybar...NO on losing the spring pads...I really like it right where it is guys, sorry. Plus, I have a light rub and need to roll the fenders as it is. Otherwise, so far so good. The EBC brakes are just about seated and have a really nice intial bite. again, so far so good.

I think the springs are equally easy/difficult to get out once you get the hang of it. For reference, the first fron corner took me three hours to get the spring, shock and brakes done. I went very slow as I was intimidated by the whole spring compressor thing. The tool works very, very well however. The second front corner took just over one hour. Pretty much the same thing for the rears...two hours for the first and 45 minutes for the second corner.

I'll do a search for fender rolling, but if anyone here want to volunteer a good home-grown method, I am willing to take suggestions.

 

Get a bat or a 2x4 piece of wood and roll that ****!

 

My friend did that to his Falcon but thats just because he is going to restore the car anyway lol.

 

nice work!
looks real good.

 

Wow.. Looks very good. Especially with that colour and wheel combo. I second getting the clear corners (not the crystal ones), but I too would lower it a tad more. If you are on #4 pads now why not try #2 or something, after rolling the fenders of course!

 

Alright, after a few days now, and endless staring, I MAY want to go just a smidge lower...MAYBE. ChrisDPham....brotha....you are the only other E420 pilot I know with the same springs, so could you please post a good side shot of your rig with the #1 pad setup on the front? Also, I assume you have the fenders rolled? The AMG fender spacers in? Anything else to eliminate any rubbing? Let me know man...and please post or PM me a pic. Thanks.

 

Can I recommend that you allow your suspension to settle for at least a few months first? When I lowered my car with H&R's a few years back, I was really surprised how much the car settled after about 3 months.

Also, have you ever rolled fenders before? I took mine to a body shop because I was super paranoid about cracking the paint. The body shop ended up doing a WAY worse job that I would've done myself. I was really pissed. I ended up having to sand down the paint on the fender lip, spray some rust-blocking paint in there and many layers of clear... The paint was flaking off like crazy... The shop wouldn't make good on it either.

So my point is, be careful. Make sure to use a heat gun to soften up the paint before you do it. And if you can find somebody or a body shop that has one of those fender-rolling tools that connect to your wheel hub, use that...

 

man, that is good advice...letting it settle. Thank you for that. I will do that very thing. As for rolling fenders...I have been searching all over the net for techniques (no, I have never done it myself) and I think I am going to try the heat gun and wooden bat thing to see what happens.

I am only rubbing on the left for some reason. The right side seems to fit fine. I am wondering if an alignment might clear it up without having to roll them at all. The fitment should be just about perfect...17 X 8 wheels sporting 225-45R17 rubber with an offset of ET35. I also thought about measuring the clearance to the strut and the wheel well and if there was room, maybe take a .120" skim cut off the back of the rim...effectively increasing the offset by 3 mm.