new 300e owner... looks good, runs like crap.
12-20-2007, 03:25 PM
#26
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...please tell me the diaphragm is easily replaced w/ the transmission still in the car.....
oh and BTW, "new" OVP possibly shot... gonna exchange it for another one and see what's up. ...then possibly I
to you and buy a new one, but could there be another electrical problem causing this? the OVP i put in there was fine for around 100 miles.... now it's intermittent....
...this might be a looooooooooooooooooooooooooong thread
oh and BTW, "new" OVP possibly shot... gonna exchange it for another one and see what's up. ...then possibly I
to you and buy a new one, but could there be another electrical problem causing this? the OVP i put in there was fine for around 100 miles.... now it's intermittent.......this might be a looooooooooooooooooooooooooong thread
I won't say I told ya so
Moving on, IIRC the vacuum modulator is held in place by a two #10(i believe) bolts that are attached to a compression ring/collar that holds the modulator in place. You replace the entire unit. I did it last spring on my TE and it took about 30 min simply because it was somewhat hard to get one of the bolt threads started again. It is not a tough job at all. Just try to make sure that the area is clean around it before you get started so that no junk gets inside the tranny. I also had one of those mechanic's mirrors on the end of a telescoping handle... it came in handy in that tight location.I have talked to many shop owners who work on these cars and time after time so many of these little gremlin electrical issues can be traced to the OVP going bad. Electronics don't age like wine when they are in hot and vibratory locations.
RE: your tranny having issues in the wet... that is purely coincidental... there are no electronic controls or connections that could get wet and cause such problems.
12-20-2007, 03:36 PM
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lots of cars
Maybe it's not the OVP...did you check the fuses? if they are not blown maybe there is something wrong with the cold start valve and other electronics connected to it. You need to start replaicing old rubber fittings on the transmission because they get hard and tend to leak...
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; 12-20-2007 at 04:29 PM.
12-20-2007, 04:19 PM
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89 300TE, and 68 280sel
Checking fuses on these cars is uber important. The dissimilar metal corrosion can cause big problems. The fuses are aluminum and corrode over time. Best to replace them all with newer copper or brass versions.
12-20-2007, 04:37 PM
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Yeah, sometimes just a bad connection will make you go crazy. A corroded connection will mess with all the electrical components in the car and no matter how many times you change the part connected to it you won't figure it out. This happened to me when my fuel pump relay keep acting up until i looked at the bottom of the wiring and one connection was rusted and had broken off...
12-21-2007, 11:38 PM
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well... I just typed out a long reply, but I dropped my keyboard and it closed the window...
Here's the jist of it:
You guys have been really helpful.
I won't have time to do anything else until after the new year.
I bought the car from a friend who gave me the low down when I bought it.
She told me it took at least 5 trys to get it running, that it had to warm up or it would stall, you have to lighten up on the gas pedal for the transmission to shift on the freeway (not so much now with the working OVP), that you can't really get the car over 65mph unless going downhill, that she spent $1500 7 months ago to pass emissions. She also told me the car had been driven like that for so long she couldn't tell me when it started. I'm thinking at least a year.
I don't think I'm going to tell her I fixed most of that w/ a $35 part.
Definetly excited to get my hands dirty and get to work on her... the car... not the friend... although.... nah...
You guys have given me a very good starting point. I'll be doing lots of research while I'm out of town and I 'm coming back with a plan and a bit more confidence.
Here's the jist of it:
You guys have been really helpful.
I won't have time to do anything else until after the new year.
I bought the car from a friend who gave me the low down when I bought it.
She told me it took at least 5 trys to get it running, that it had to warm up or it would stall, you have to lighten up on the gas pedal for the transmission to shift on the freeway (not so much now with the working OVP), that you can't really get the car over 65mph unless going downhill, that she spent $1500 7 months ago to pass emissions. She also told me the car had been driven like that for so long she couldn't tell me when it started. I'm thinking at least a year.
I don't think I'm going to tell her I fixed most of that w/ a $35 part.
Definetly excited to get my hands dirty and get to work on her... the car... not the friend... although.... nah...
You guys have given me a very good starting point. I'll be doing lots of research while I'm out of town and I 'm coming back with a plan and a bit more confidence.
Last edited by imagineaudio; 12-21-2007 at 11:43 PM.
did she give you a list of what was fixed?
12-22-2007, 12:56 AM
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,,,EGR valve, catalytic converter... not sure what else, if anything.
here's a couple quick pics I took w/ a phone. There are 2 dents in the body I want to fix (not in pics)... I'll post pics of the damage after I sort through all the transmission trouble and take care of the "tune-up" items..
here's a couple quick pics I took w/ a phone. There are 2 dents in the body I want to fix (not in pics)... I'll post pics of the damage after I sort through all the transmission trouble and take care of the "tune-up" items..
Last edited by imagineaudio; 12-22-2007 at 12:58 AM.
12-22-2007, 11:04 AM
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1995 E320 SE, 162,000 Miles (Sold)
12-22-2007, 05:47 PM
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I wasn't wild about it at first but I really came to like it, actually prefer it to many of the other colors now. My paint is a bit tired but it is still a great color, I actually get compliments on it.
I'd go get that one in town if I were you and then you can park that Caliber in the garage
I'd go get that one in town if I were you and then you can park that Caliber in the garage
12-26-2007, 12:44 PM
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I wasn't wild about it at first but I really came to like it, actually prefer it to many of the other colors now. My paint is a bit tired but it is still a great color, I actually get compliments on it.
I'd go get that one in town if I were you and then you can park that Caliber in the garage
I'd go get that one in town if I were you and then you can park that Caliber in the garage
I've been thinking about it. I am going to be taking a position with a different company this February which will be providing a Dodge Dakota and more $$$, so I will not really need to put many miles at all on my personal car. My wife does not sound likes she will go for another W124, though. So maybe a W210 from some other state so I can avoid the rust issues. I like the look but have never driven one. We'll see...
12-26-2007, 08:20 PM
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Wow awesome thread. Well being the very proud owner of a 1989 300E for the last 8 years and after putting 70,000 miles on it, I have seen most of these problems. First off someone mentioned the fuses... DEAD ON! I replace all of mine about every 3 years just for preventitive measures.
Now.. one thing I have had and taken care of twice now is the transmission issue. When I first experienced it, I took it to the dealership... of course their response was the tranny was shot and I needed to cut my arm and both legs off for them to replace it. Not having 100% confidence in our local dealership, I did some research.
Turns out on a couple different forums, other w124 owners reported that changing the tranny filter and fluid would solve the problem. I proceeded to have an independent mechanic do this for me and eureka it was fixed! I drive this car extremely hard and it never missed a shift. After 30,000 or so miles it began to act up again and I simply had it changed and all has been back to normal for the last 15,000 miles.
Other issues you may experience that are easy self fixes:
Seat controls fail: simply remove them, take them apart very carefully over a baking sheet, clean the contacts with sand paper and gently put back together. takes about 20 minutes per switch and saves you over $100 each in replacement cost.
Moonroof fails: For some reason these cars are prone to debris in the tracks, clean them good with a vacuum or air hose and grease. Opens like new, this will save you hundreds of dollars over the life of the car.
Rough Idle: Techron fuel injector cleaner seemed to smooth mine out quite a bit. I also replaced the motor mounts and it "felt" smoother since mine were shot and the engine was idling on the frame.
pre-1990 lower door trim falls off: I went to the dealership and order new clips for a dollar each and replaced them all using silicone to anchor tighter... haven't lost one in years!
Oil: Not sure on your climate, but I run 20w50 all the time (this vehicle is now stored through the last 3 bitter Wisconsin winters) and it just seems to run better with this weight of oil... maybe it's just me!?
Shocks went bad: Didn't really realize they were shot since these cars roll sooooo smooth. Once I replaced them though it was a world of difference. It did cost about $600 to replace but worth every penny!!
Wood center trim cracks: I changed mine out twice with nice pieces from a salvage yard. They just cracked again in a couple years. I found replacements again and have used Pledge furniture polish on them once a month since installing... 5 years later they still look awesome without a single crack.
Center console prone to "dings" and gauges: Had it recovered with high quality leather for about $100 4 years ago. Holds up beautifully now and looks incredible.
Window washer fluid tank cracks: Seems to be a problem due to the heating coils in the tank. I purchased a new one for the second time, this time I painted it with a liquid rubberizer for tool handles. It's held up great since '02 now and looks nice all black.
Alternator: Was looking at a $400 replacement... after reading the forums I replaced the regulator first (I think thats what it was called, has two prongs on it). Car charges fine now and has since replacement 25,000 miles ago. saved me about $350
Replacement rims: I hit a 4 x 4 chunk of wood and severely bent my factory rim. Luckly ran across a set of monoblock 18" rims at my local salvage yard in great condition. Picked them up for $250. Rear ones fit right up, fronts hit the suspension and I thought all was lost. Tried a set of cheap spacers and they fit! However once you got over 45mph it shook like a fish out of water. Did some research and purchased a set of high quality spacers with the centering hub on them. The old 300E looks newer, more aggressive and smoothly glides to 120mph without effort once again!
Hope some of these MB life learned lesson help. Be careful, these cars are ADDICTING! You'll find yourself taking scenic routes and the long way home just to spend more time with her!! I'll attach a couple pics>>>
Something every Benz owner LOVES to see!!
The 300E with the old rims:
The 300E with the new rims:
Now.. one thing I have had and taken care of twice now is the transmission issue. When I first experienced it, I took it to the dealership... of course their response was the tranny was shot and I needed to cut my arm and both legs off for them to replace it. Not having 100% confidence in our local dealership, I did some research.
Turns out on a couple different forums, other w124 owners reported that changing the tranny filter and fluid would solve the problem. I proceeded to have an independent mechanic do this for me and eureka it was fixed! I drive this car extremely hard and it never missed a shift. After 30,000 or so miles it began to act up again and I simply had it changed and all has been back to normal for the last 15,000 miles.
Other issues you may experience that are easy self fixes:
Seat controls fail: simply remove them, take them apart very carefully over a baking sheet, clean the contacts with sand paper and gently put back together. takes about 20 minutes per switch and saves you over $100 each in replacement cost.
Moonroof fails: For some reason these cars are prone to debris in the tracks, clean them good with a vacuum or air hose and grease. Opens like new, this will save you hundreds of dollars over the life of the car.
Rough Idle: Techron fuel injector cleaner seemed to smooth mine out quite a bit. I also replaced the motor mounts and it "felt" smoother since mine were shot and the engine was idling on the frame.
pre-1990 lower door trim falls off: I went to the dealership and order new clips for a dollar each and replaced them all using silicone to anchor tighter... haven't lost one in years!
Oil: Not sure on your climate, but I run 20w50 all the time (this vehicle is now stored through the last 3 bitter Wisconsin winters) and it just seems to run better with this weight of oil... maybe it's just me!?
Shocks went bad: Didn't really realize they were shot since these cars roll sooooo smooth. Once I replaced them though it was a world of difference. It did cost about $600 to replace but worth every penny!!
Wood center trim cracks: I changed mine out twice with nice pieces from a salvage yard. They just cracked again in a couple years. I found replacements again and have used Pledge furniture polish on them once a month since installing... 5 years later they still look awesome without a single crack.
Center console prone to "dings" and gauges: Had it recovered with high quality leather for about $100 4 years ago. Holds up beautifully now and looks incredible.
Window washer fluid tank cracks: Seems to be a problem due to the heating coils in the tank. I purchased a new one for the second time, this time I painted it with a liquid rubberizer for tool handles. It's held up great since '02 now and looks nice all black.
Alternator: Was looking at a $400 replacement... after reading the forums I replaced the regulator first (I think thats what it was called, has two prongs on it). Car charges fine now and has since replacement 25,000 miles ago. saved me about $350
Replacement rims: I hit a 4 x 4 chunk of wood and severely bent my factory rim. Luckly ran across a set of monoblock 18" rims at my local salvage yard in great condition. Picked them up for $250. Rear ones fit right up, fronts hit the suspension and I thought all was lost. Tried a set of cheap spacers and they fit! However once you got over 45mph it shook like a fish out of water. Did some research and purchased a set of high quality spacers with the centering hub on them. The old 300E looks newer, more aggressive and smoothly glides to 120mph without effort once again!
Hope some of these MB life learned lesson help. Be careful, these cars are ADDICTING! You'll find yourself taking scenic routes and the long way home just to spend more time with her!! I'll attach a couple pics>>>
Something every Benz owner LOVES to see!!
The 300E with the old rims:
The 300E with the new rims:
12-26-2007, 08:26 PM
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12-26-2007, 08:29 PM
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Yes, the Caliber is like a toaster on wheels.
I've been thinking about it. I am going to be taking a position with a different company this February which will be providing a Dodge Dakota and more $$$, so I will not really need to put many miles at all on my personal car. My wife does not sound likes she will go for another W124, though. So maybe a W210 from some other state so I can avoid the rust issues. I like the look but have never driven one. We'll see...
I've been thinking about it. I am going to be taking a position with a different company this February which will be providing a Dodge Dakota and more $$$, so I will not really need to put many miles at all on my personal car. My wife does not sound likes she will go for another W124, though. So maybe a W210 from some other state so I can avoid the rust issues. I like the look but have never driven one. We'll see...
12-27-2007, 03:52 PM
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Oh, in those photos it looked like silver/blue... maybe it was the lighting
12-28-2007, 04:13 PM
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'86 300e
$500! if it runs at all you're ahead.
You mentioned a fouled plug - if the trans modulator has a crook diaphragm it sucks atf into the engine and starts fouling the plugs - when it happened to me it was no.6. if in doubt about the modulator, put in a new one. Also check your distrutor cap and rotor - if they are old they start arcing in damp weather - check the rotor for minute cracks. if in doubt putin a new one. yeah and put a new fuse in the OVP - come on, its a couple of cents you got the car for $500! Who started that bull*&^&* about changing transmission fluid? if you buy a car and you dont know for sure that the guy you bought it off changed the fluid and filter recently, you change the fluid and filter, same as the oil, coolant, brake fluid, oil filter, air filter and any other consumable you can think of. While you are doing this you'll find a bunch of curious unconnected wires, vacuum tubes etc and you scratch your head for a bit and figure out where they were supposed to be connected but the bloody hack mechanic that was butchering the car at the time forgot to put them back.
good luck - when you get these cars running they are nice to drive - i love mine so much I don't even get angry with it when it breaks down - its 20 years old what do you expect?
You mentioned a fouled plug - if the trans modulator has a crook diaphragm it sucks atf into the engine and starts fouling the plugs - when it happened to me it was no.6. if in doubt about the modulator, put in a new one. Also check your distrutor cap and rotor - if they are old they start arcing in damp weather - check the rotor for minute cracks. if in doubt putin a new one. yeah and put a new fuse in the OVP - come on, its a couple of cents you got the car for $500! Who started that bull*&^&* about changing transmission fluid? if you buy a car and you dont know for sure that the guy you bought it off changed the fluid and filter recently, you change the fluid and filter, same as the oil, coolant, brake fluid, oil filter, air filter and any other consumable you can think of. While you are doing this you'll find a bunch of curious unconnected wires, vacuum tubes etc and you scratch your head for a bit and figure out where they were supposed to be connected but the bloody hack mechanic that was butchering the car at the time forgot to put them back.
good luck - when you get these cars running they are nice to drive - i love mine so much I don't even get angry with it when it breaks down - its 20 years old what do you expect?
01-03-2008, 05:32 AM
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well... back from vacation. First thing up: topping up the ATF. It looks really low. I'll see how it shifts when there is actually some fluid in it. Some questions I have immediatly: What type of ATF can I put in it? Dexron III? Where is a good place to put jack stands under the car?
01-03-2008, 04:45 PM
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1990 300e
Well, transmission seems fine after adding a quart and a half of ATF. I used the dexron III/Mercon type. I'm bumming a little about some rust I found at the front drivers side jack point, but oh well.
Also, the spark plugs that I ordered aren't the same ones that came in. I ordered the H9DC plugs and got HR9DC plugs. Now from reading around a bit I see that the plug connectors have resistance built in, so no need to use resister plugs? Should I bring them back and order some non resistor plugs online or something?
If the number 6 is the one closest to the back of the engine, that's the same one I had w/ oil on it. Also curious that transmission was down so much oil, so it's got to be leaking somewhere...
BTW: Klint54136, good post... That's going to be helpful
Also, the spark plugs that I ordered aren't the same ones that came in. I ordered the H9DC plugs and got HR9DC plugs. Now from reading around a bit I see that the plug connectors have resistance built in, so no need to use resister plugs? Should I bring them back and order some non resistor plugs online or something?
You mentioned a fouled plug - if the trans modulator has a crook diaphragm it sucks atf into the engine and starts fouling the plugs - when it happened to me it was no.6. if in doubt about the modulator, put in a new one.
BTW: Klint54136, good post... That's going to be helpful
Last edited by imagineaudio; 01-03-2008 at 04:47 PM.
01-04-2008, 03:11 PM
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It's not a leak, it is the bad modulator sucking fluid up the vacuum tube into the intake manifold..... I believe I mentioned this earlier as a possibility. Get a new one and clean out that vacuum tube with some compressed air.
01-04-2008, 04:12 PM
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1990 300e
so is this something that can be done by novice DIY'er, or should I take it in?
I would have to purchase any tools required as well as jack stands...
I read that the transmission cross member needs to be unbolted and the exahust needs to be dropped to access it...
I would have to purchase any tools required as well as jack stands...
I read that the transmission cross member needs to be unbolted and the exahust needs to be dropped to access it...
01-05-2008, 07:45 PM
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well I'm a very experienced diy'er (I used to be able to swap out my harley engine in about 4 hours) and I was quite happy to give my car to my mechanic to swap out the modulator - I dont think the actual swap is all that difficult but theres a bit of mercedes arcana required adjusting the new unit which I didnt really want to risk...cost me around $300 and the car runs perfect.
and yeah no.6 is at the back by the firewall. At the risk of repeating myself ad tedium, pull the distributor and have a close look at it - it's an easy fix, doesnt cost much, and can mimic all kinds of other gremlins if its worn out...
good luck
and yeah no.6 is at the back by the firewall. At the risk of repeating myself ad tedium, pull the distributor and have a close look at it - it's an easy fix, doesnt cost much, and can mimic all kinds of other gremlins if its worn out...
good luck
01-19-2008, 07:58 PM
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well, after doing some more research on changing the Vacuum Modulator... I think I am going to take it in and have it done. I've heard great things about a shop in Tarzana, CA by the name of MB Motors. I'm in the middle of moving and I'm not sure when my funds will be replenished, so...
Tonight I went in to change the air filter and found oil puddled up inside the case....
I pulled the case out to clean the oil out so I can see how fast it is collecting and inadvertently found where the gas smell is coming from that I mentioned in my first post.
Dripping right out of the EHA valve connected to fuel distributor.
I unplugged it and started the car and it started quicker and ran smoother, how ever lost engine speed while trying to rev over 3000 rpms... Plugged it back in and its rough as usual.
Does this whole part need to be changed...? Or can I just replace some seals? If replaced w/ a new one is it a plug and play type part or will it need some adjustments to fine tune...?
Tonight I went in to change the air filter and found oil puddled up inside the case....
I pulled the case out to clean the oil out so I can see how fast it is collecting and inadvertently found where the gas smell is coming from that I mentioned in my first post.
Dripping right out of the EHA valve connected to fuel distributor.
I unplugged it and started the car and it started quicker and ran smoother, how ever lost engine speed while trying to rev over 3000 rpms... Plugged it back in and its rough as usual.
Does this whole part need to be changed...? Or can I just replace some seals? If replaced w/ a new one is it a plug and play type part or will it need some adjustments to fine tune...?
