imagineaudio

picked up a 1990 300e yesterday for $500. Runs very rough, heavy gas smell, where do I start? around 200k

YNVDIZW124

where are u located?..I would start by changing the spark plugs, wires, and adjusting the fuel mixture by turning the screw next to the fuel distributor. I would also get a new oxygen sensor (get the cheap 1990 mustang one).

imagineaudio

I'm in LA. Sounds like a good place to start. I'll get that done tomorrow and report back.

YNVDIZW124

Cool, what part? I'm in L.A too...If your close i can swing by to check it out..

imagineaudio

glendale/eagle rock area. Man, that'd be great if your close. I'm new to MB, never even driven one before yesterday. Just figured I'd take a crap shoot on this car on the off chance that it might just be something simple...

YNVDIZW124

I work by monterrey park so i'm only like 15min away...i'm sure it's nothing big and you can get parts in sun valley at the junk yard...pm me with your info..

neanderthal

as with any new car, the first thing one should do is change the oil, and get a tuneup. its cheap insurance against assuming the previous owner was diligent about the maintenance. of course if you buy it from a mechanic, its likely been checked over and all that needs replacing has been replaced.

so. go get a tuneup. get yourself an oil change while youre there.

muellers burbank mercedes is good. if youre in glendale youre not too far from him. hes on san fernando road on the scott road exit off the 5 freeway.

what you should do is try and establish where the gas leak smell is coming from. it could be a leaking injector, fuel hose, distributor, etc etc etc. the rough running could be associated with the fuel smell. it may be something completely unrelated, like an engine mount. but a tuneup and oil change gives you a baseline of things that will definitely need changing or replacing.

take care of doing the basics before you worry about getting wheels or a stereo. whats the purpose of having nice wheels and a booming stereo on a car you cant drive. i had a neighbours kid who was like that. hed clown my old BMW 2002 because it looked tired and had a few primer coloured fenders. his show winning VW bug didnt run, so i reminded him to call mommy next time he needed to go somewhere, whereas id just get in my car and go.

imagineaudio

All good points, and my usual course of action. I am thinking the gas smell is related to the rough ride. It doesn't accelerate well. I drove it around a little today and a couple little electrical problems popped up. I blew a fuse for the dome light/center console lights, replaced it, it blew again. Then a little later tonight after shutting the car off the back right tail light stayed on, only with the key in the off position, key on, no light?? I popped out the fuse. This was a friend's daily driver until monday and she's never had problems with blown fuses, so....

Looks like this is going to be fun. Not doing the whole stereo/wheels thing. Not my bag. Just interested in getting it running well.



YNVDIZW124, I'm sending you a PM

myfirstbenz

cap rotor plugs, guarantee it is something simple, fix it soon before you load the oil up with gasoline

jharrisiii

Sounds like the headlight switch is in the overnight parking light position. Check your owner's manual. I think the switch rotates two clicks to the left past the OFF position; click one is one side, click two is the other side. From memory, I think this is for parking at night on narrow European streets. A dim light bulb in the tailight demarks the protruding corner of the car.

imagineaudio

well, I haven't had time to do much but here's where I'm at, with more details...

Regarding the rear light staying illuminated, yup light selector in the wrong position. What through me off was I blew the number 3 fuse twice the same day, the corrisponding front parkling light is out. Next time I turned on the headlights, one blows, rear taillight magically fixed.

I have only had this car for 3 days and have been busy so the usual hasn't been done yet (ie, inspect ignition wires, spark plugs, filters, oil change, etc...)

The car is hard to start when cold, takes 5-7 times cranking before it runs. Once warm, starts right up. Needs to heat up past the first tick mark on the temp gauge before driving or it stalls out.

When car first starts it rpms around 900. After around 30-45 seconds it goes down to around 500 and stays put there,

Idle is very rough, like, shaking the whole car, it smooths out a little at higher rpms, but feels like it's struggling to maintain engine speed.

Acceleration is very slow and it looses speed traveling up hill.

Strong fuel smell in engine compartment.

Tranny takes a couple seconds to shift into reverse and you have to kinda lighten up on the pedal for it to shift while driving around.

The Auto Climate control doesn't work, no air blows through vents regardless of setting, also the radio won't turn on, and the lights around the gear selector are out. Oh, and the odometer hasn't counted any miles in 2 years.

The ABS and Low Coolant warning lights are lit.


I've checked coolant level, seems fine, color is fine.
I've checked the ATF fluid, seems low, but I will double check tomorrow.
Engine oil is at a good level and the color looks ok
I read about the OVP and the ABS light could hint towards that, so I checked the fuse.


There is a ton of greasy muck under the engine, and body all the way back to the Catalytic Converter which looks brand new.


Anyways, Tomorrow I'll pull the plugs, change the oil, add some ATF fluid, change filters, inspect for leaks.

I'm very new to this and don't have much dough, so I want to start troubleshooting logically and do as much of it myself as possible. (which just may end up costing me more in the long run.)

I Can't find any of these cars in good condition in the area for less than around $3500-4000. So given my purchase price of $500, I'm comfortable putting some money into it, a little at a time. Also, it might be fun....?

shadowgriffen

Search OVP should get rid of the ABS light

imagineaudio

Well, i checked the fuse, looked fine.

Started the car and banged on the OVP a couple times, and what do you know, engine idle surged and ABS light went off.

Banged again, rough idle returned and ABS light lit up.

I'm on my way to the mercedes dismantler in sun valley that YNVDIZW124 reccomended to me to pick up a used one for $35 w/ 6 mos warranty.

I'll report back.

myfirstbenz

BUY A NEW ONE!!!! SHIAT. You got the car for $500?! and you can't invest some real money to get it going right? Buying used electronics that are prone to failing is like throwing away time and money regardless if it has a 6mo warranty. Buy it new and forget about the associated problems coming back to haunt you.

imagineaudio

Sorry, I'm a used parts type of guy... Always have been.


Well, I installed it. Starts better, accelerates quicker, abs light off. Still chugs quite a bit. One of the spark plugs is oil-fouled, have some Bosch H9DC spark plugs on order from Kragen... Good plugs for this engine?

they should be in by thursday.


How much for distributor for these cars? Cap/coil...

Well, I'll update as make headway on this.

Thanks for all the replies so far...

floodkid

http://mercedessource.com/node/498
Bout to order one of these myself.
If you can put up the money for some New parts it looks seems to be a good deal.

These cars are easy to work on, I work on mine myself....


....and i dont know much about cars. first time playin with this stuff.

Just remember, Over-engineered. Over-thought. and vacuums lines crack when they get old.

Good luck, and welcome to the forums!

myfirstbenz

You could make some money by cleaning and selling him your old wires cap and rotor

YNVDIZW124

You know i would put new parts on my car but when i can't find a problem i don't want to spend on new parts that end up not being the problem because that way it quickly becomes a money pit.... I mean tune up parts, steering, brakes, and suspension stuff should always be new.....


well i'm going to put up pictures of all the parts that i carry around in my trunk. I have like 2-3 OVP relays, a fuel pump relay, some Idle control valves, cold start injectors and some sensors. If anyone needs some parts let me know...

imagineaudio

the saga continues....


Drove around a little bit today and it started raining. Stopped at a denny's for breakfast, started raining a bit harder.

As I merged on to the freeway Transmission got stuck in 2nd (i think). Pulled over to the shoulder and put it in park. After about 30sec I shifted back in to drive and limped off the highway still stuck in 2nd. I came to a stop at the end of the off ramp. I saw a good place to park about a block up. As I started out again, no problems, transmission shifted through all gears including reverse just fine.

What is this a symptom of? Actual Transmission or some sensor somewhere? Bad wires?

I can't say for sure, but maybe it's related to wet conditions?

It's perfectly plausible this car hasn't driven in rain in over a year.

YNVDIZW124

make sure you check all the vacuum lines going from the engine to the transmission....

imagineaudio

^^^ Good call... Was searching around this forum and the mercedesshop forum.

Still gathering the information on flushing the ATF. I'm not sure if it's a good idea on a transmission this old w/ so many miles. I know it's a bad idea for most manual transmissions, but i dunno... Very much a NOOB.

I read through a lot of posts referring to a Bowden cable and some modulator T thing you can turn a bit, but I figured I'm going to start with the ATF and an inspection of the vacuum lines. It does kinda feel like it's not gettng enough pressure more than anything else.

Unfortunately I'll be side tracked through the new year; I'm faced with being kicked out of my house because the landlords decided not to use my rent money to pay their mortgage.


My daily driver is a POS that needs to be smogged ASAP and I'm sure it's not going to pass. My plan is to fail smog, and apply to have the State buy it from me for $1000. The Transmission in the benz just has to last until I get that check. This car will be my daily driver.



Oh and BTW, aside from the transmission quirks, did I mention I F'ing LOVE THIS CAR.

it took around 100 miles, but it did.... it grew on me like a bad case of the crabs.



EDITED to add: Maybe I'll post a couple of pics tomorrow if I get a sec.

myfirstbenz

For the tranny, the first things to check are the vacuum lines and simple test is to put a vacuum pump and gauge to that line going from the manifold to the tranny. Make sure it holds vacuum. If it does not, check the line, fittings and vacuum modulator on the drivers side of the tranny. If you pull the rubber cover off of it to find that "T" adjuster, and you find tranny fluid, then odds are that it is bad. These often wear out. You can look this up and find how to adjust it if the previous items do not apply.

imagineaudio

^^^ ...it means the vacuum modulator is bad or the T adjuster?.... or the transmission?

So are you saying the lines and fittings could all be good but the vacuum modulator/t adjuster could be leaking...?

Is it recommended to do these checks prior to flushing the ATF.... Is flushing even recommended?

myfirstbenz

the "T" bar is the adjuster like a key that is on the modulator. If it is wet with ATF then chances are good that the vacuum diaphragm is ruptured and therefore not working to modulate the shifts. There could also be some ATF in the vacuum line near the modulator too if it is really shot.

I don't see a problem in flushing the ATF. Timing really isn't that big of a deal. You could always try it first, or do it anyways. Fresh fluid and a new filter are always a good thing. Checking the vacuum module isn't tough so I would just take 30min to check it then do the flush or vice versa.

The bowden cable you mentioned earlier adjusts when and how long the tranny shifts, not harshness.

Plenty of posts on that one too.

imagineaudio

...please tell me the diaphragm is easily replaced w/ the transmission still in the car.....













oh and BTW, "new" OVP possibly shot... gonna exchange it for another one and see what's up. ...then possibly I to you and buy a new one, but could there be another electrical problem causing this? the OVP i put in there was fine for around 100 miles.... now it's intermittent....


...this might be a looooooooooooooooooooooooooong thread