engine misfiring - 1993 300E
Anyway, a friend of mine rode in the car with me and said that my engine is definitely misfiring. Today I changed my oil and transmission fluid, both with mobil 1 synthetic, which didn't change the problem. Now, I'm thinking that it could be my spark plug wires (which haven't been replaced since the car was made), my distributor, or my ignition coil. The last time I replaced my spark plugs was about a month ago, and I put in Bosch +4 Platinum, but I didn't replace the wires at the time. Should I go ahead and replace the wires and see if it still happens? If so, what are my next steps? Thank you so much for reading this. Take care.
Last edited by pipesurfer; Dec 20, 2007 at 09:06 PM.


One problem is Bosch +4 Platinum plugs. You need the standard plugs for this engine. Platinum plugs do not work well in the M104, and the Bosch +4 is nothing but a marketing gimmick. I'm sure in the next 5 minutes someone here will chime in with the correct spark plug number, or you can do a search on this forum. I know it has been discussed.
I personally would not use synthetic oil as this engine was not designed for it, but that subject is like politics and religion around here!
Last edited by shdoug; Dec 20, 2007 at 12:40 AM.




Just now as I was driving home, I stopped at an intersection and my car almost died; the engine started to jerk back and forth and I almost lost all power, but thankfully my house was right there so I made it.
I have a few questions now:
A) Exactly which NGK spark plugs do you use? Just the regular copper ones?
B) Which oil do you recommend, and which type? I used Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30. Also, is it bad to completely switch to another oil when I've been using this kind for a while?
C) Should I still replace the spark plug wires, and which type should I buy and where?
Thank you so much everyone.
https://mbworld.org/forums/search.php?searchid=3540671
like we talked about, best case scenario, plugs and wires and whatever those evil mercedes voodoo coilpacks between wires are.
I've read a lot of people get slipped valve guides - which blows ***, but buy a new head and we'll fix it. Some have low compression like we talked about, but with smoking symptoms - which you dont have. . . yet. Another guy said he fixed this with a new tps, another had driven it for a while like this and it ended up being a ****ed ecu that he replaced for mad bucks.
You should've bought that Great Divide Range Rover for $1500!!!
GET TO THAT MB SHOP and have them do a full diagnostic. All of the above parts are expensive and before we start throwing $$ and parts at it, get someone's opinion who sees this every. Look on the bright side, at least your seat switches still work. . . wait a sec. . .
Don't stress, we'll figure it out.
On second thought if you have AAA, tow it to Matt's place in the OC. He's a friend and knows what he's doing. . .
Last edited by eliaschristeas; Dec 21, 2007 at 01:10 AM. Reason: another idea
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w124/222526-new-300e-owner-looks-good-runs-like-crap.html
talks about fuel, vacuum lines etc. You deffinatley need to get the shop manual if you're keeping this thing. It'll help you with all this!
can someone tell him where the dizzy is located on this car? He'll need it for cap and rotor maint.
also, does this things have an obd code reader box somplace? All the old rovers - aka german cars disguised as evil british electrical engineering - have obd 1 ports under the passangers seat.
Last edited by eliaschristeas; Dec 21, 2007 at 01:08 AM.
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG


Changing the oil has nothing to do with how it runs. Oil protects the bearings and lubricates the internal engine parts. It has a lot to do with how long your engine will last, and more importantly how long it will remain leak-free.
Last edited by shdoug; Dec 22, 2007 at 12:06 AM.






Next step was to replace the ignition coils. I ordered 3 Bosch ignition coils and replaced them. Still, the same problem, although the problem is even less violent now, but it's still misfiring and shaking pretty badly when I'm accelerating and when I'm going under 10 mph.
You say there is no distributor cap and rotor. Does that mean there isn't a distributor at all? I'm a little confused by this, seeing as how I'm still fairly new to cars. And given that there isn't a cap or rotor to replace, what is my next step? I should probably replace the other 3 wires as well but I don't think that'll be the entire solution to the problem.
If anyone could post a diagram of where the distributor is or post a link, or has any more insight on this, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.



