E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

engine misfiring - 1993 300E

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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 12:05 AM
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1993 300E 3.2L
engine misfiring - 1993 300E

Hi guys. About a week ago I started to notice that my acceleration was getting really rough/bumpy, and wouldn't jump to the next gear very easily. It has gotten worse, and now I can barely accelerate without my front end vibrating pretty badly. Keep in mind that a month ago I was able to haul *** and reached 120 mph a few times, with no engine problems.

Anyway, a friend of mine rode in the car with me and said that my engine is definitely misfiring. Today I changed my oil and transmission fluid, both with mobil 1 synthetic, which didn't change the problem. Now, I'm thinking that it could be my spark plug wires (which haven't been replaced since the car was made), my distributor, or my ignition coil. The last time I replaced my spark plugs was about a month ago, and I put in Bosch +4 Platinum, but I didn't replace the wires at the time. Should I go ahead and replace the wires and see if it still happens? If so, what are my next steps? Thank you so much for reading this. Take care.

Last edited by pipesurfer; Dec 20, 2007 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 12:37 AM
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Welcome to the forum!

One problem is Bosch +4 Platinum plugs. You need the standard plugs for this engine. Platinum plugs do not work well in the M104, and the Bosch +4 is nothing but a marketing gimmick. I'm sure in the next 5 minutes someone here will chime in with the correct spark plug number, or you can do a search on this forum. I know it has been discussed.

I personally would not use synthetic oil as this engine was not designed for it, but that subject is like politics and religion around here!

Last edited by shdoug; Dec 20, 2007 at 12:40 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 01:17 AM
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Within the combo of those plugs and that oil could lie your problem. Those plugs do not work well, I use some NGK's, and as mentioned the oil is not the best choice for that motor since the seals will leak with that thin of oil... which leads me to believe that you got oil past your valve guides or rings and fouled up those fancy plugs. I'd pull them to see how they look.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:04 PM
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1993 300E 3.2L
Hey guys, thanks for the replies.

Just now as I was driving home, I stopped at an intersection and my car almost died; the engine started to jerk back and forth and I almost lost all power, but thankfully my house was right there so I made it.

I have a few questions now:

A) Exactly which NGK spark plugs do you use? Just the regular copper ones?

B) Which oil do you recommend, and which type? I used Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30. Also, is it bad to completely switch to another oil when I've been using this kind for a while?

C) Should I still replace the spark plug wires, and which type should I buy and where?

Thank you so much everyone.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 12:51 AM
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Land Rovers!!!
hey sean - read everything in this searched thread link:

https://mbworld.org/forums/search.php?searchid=3540671

like we talked about, best case scenario, plugs and wires and whatever those evil mercedes voodoo coilpacks between wires are.

I've read a lot of people get slipped valve guides - which blows ***, but buy a new head and we'll fix it. Some have low compression like we talked about, but with smoking symptoms - which you dont have. . . yet. Another guy said he fixed this with a new tps, another had driven it for a while like this and it ended up being a ****ed ecu that he replaced for mad bucks.

You should've bought that Great Divide Range Rover for $1500!!!

GET TO THAT MB SHOP and have them do a full diagnostic. All of the above parts are expensive and before we start throwing $$ and parts at it, get someone's opinion who sees this every. Look on the bright side, at least your seat switches still work. . . wait a sec. . .

Don't stress, we'll figure it out.

On second thought if you have AAA, tow it to Matt's place in the OC. He's a friend and knows what he's doing. . .

Last edited by eliaschristeas; Dec 21, 2007 at 01:10 AM. Reason: another idea
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 01:02 AM
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Land Rovers!!!
another interesting thread:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w124/222526-new-300e-owner-looks-good-runs-like-crap.html

talks about fuel, vacuum lines etc. You deffinatley need to get the shop manual if you're keeping this thing. It'll help you with all this!

can someone tell him where the dizzy is located on this car? He'll need it for cap and rotor maint.

also, does this things have an obd code reader box somplace? All the old rovers - aka german cars disguised as evil british electrical engineering - have obd 1 ports under the passangers seat.

Last edited by eliaschristeas; Dec 21, 2007 at 01:08 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 01:42 AM
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I'm good on m103 engine but on m104 i'm clueless...I would check all the regular tune up parts like spark plugs, fuses, and stuff like that..
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 01:55 AM
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95 E300D
I had same problem with my 96 e320 I took my car to the MB mechanic he told me he knows whats the problem and problem was ignition coil, i got it changed for 80 and engine was running perfect....
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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Land Rovers!!!
yeah - for his sake I hope its tune up parts. Does anyone have the shop manual for this car - specifically the ignition section with troubleshooting/testing steps and location of components?
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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93 E300
cheap change

If all plug wires are good and you changed out to the proper plugs. The next step is look at your coil contacts and change out the coil yourself, it is a cheap change. Good luck
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mythreesons
If all plug wires are good and you changed out to the proper plugs. The next step is look at your coil contacts and change out the coil yourself, it is a cheap change. Good luck
The '92 300E has the M104 engine. This vintage of M104 has 3 coil packs, coil-on-plug style, 3 spark plug wires, and a crank position sensor. There is no cap and rotor. The wiring harness is biodegradable and the primary wiring under the top cover is prone to breaking down due to heat and that can cause problems with ignition. I still think this car just needs new plugs of the proper type installed. Be very careful when moving the coil packs not to disturb the wiring any more than necessary because the insulation can be very brittle.

Changing the oil has nothing to do with how it runs. Oil protects the bearings and lubricates the internal engine parts. It has a lot to do with how long your engine will last, and more importantly how long it will remain leak-free.

Last edited by shdoug; Dec 22, 2007 at 12:06 AM.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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1993 300E 3.2L
Thanks again guys. That explanation of the coil packs and wires was very helpful. Tomorrow I'm going to buy some new spark plugs; exactly which kind should I get? I was thinking NGK V-Power, but I want to be sure I get the right kind.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pipesurfer
Thanks again guys. That explanation of the coil packs and wires was very helpful. Tomorrow I'm going to buy some new spark plugs; exactly which kind should I get? I was thinking NGK V-Power, but I want to be sure I get the right kind.
That's what I run... Very happy with them.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pipesurfer
Thanks again guys. That explanation of the coil packs and wires was very helpful. Tomorrow I'm going to buy some new spark plugs; exactly which kind should I get? I was thinking NGK V-Power, but I want to be sure I get the right kind.
I think I spent about $8 on some AC Delcos and it ran like a scared rabbit/scalded dog. The head and cam are so perfectly designed that just a plain, simple plug works great. It's not a Honda Civic after all. But it's your money.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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1993 300E 3.2L
Originally Posted by shdoug
The '92 300E has the M104 engine. This vintage of M104 has 3 coil packs, coil-on-plug style, 3 spark plug wires, and a crank position sensor. There is no cap and rotor.
Ok, I just replaced the spark plugs with NGK V-Power, and it still didn't fix the problem; although, the shaking wasn't as violent, so I know I have the correct voltage running through my system now.

Next step was to replace the ignition coils. I ordered 3 Bosch ignition coils and replaced them. Still, the same problem, although the problem is even less violent now, but it's still misfiring and shaking pretty badly when I'm accelerating and when I'm going under 10 mph.

You say there is no distributor cap and rotor. Does that mean there isn't a distributor at all? I'm a little confused by this, seeing as how I'm still fairly new to cars. And given that there isn't a cap or rotor to replace, what is my next step? I should probably replace the other 3 wires as well but I don't think that'll be the entire solution to the problem.

If anyone could post a diagram of where the distributor is or post a link, or has any more insight on this, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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1993 300E 3.2L
Also, I just talked to my friend and he mentioned that the O2 sensor might be ****ing up and causing this, but I'm not sure about that, just wanted to throw that out there. Thanks.
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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e300 estate
00

yes, i agree with some of the guys who said it might be the spark plugs...I used to have the same problem like engine almost halt to stop and yes, change the oil you're using into a thicker one.
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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Erratic idle during low RPMs can also be the OVP relay on M103 engines...not sure if M104's have them?
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by appatula
Erratic idle during low RPMs can also be the OVP relay on M103 engines...not sure if M104's have them?
They do, mine is shot
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