tazz5150

I was wondering if any of you guys can help me change my fuel hose line. I've got a '95 E320 and all the hoses are degrading, including the fuel line that is from (I believe) the fuel tank to the fuel pump.

I've heard of depressurizing the fuel line and such. I was wondering if any of you guys can help me replace it properly.

Thanks in advance.

black-55

I just did the same hose plus a second one to the filter from the pump on my 95 E320 sedan. What do you want to know? Both are available from Autohausaz though I don't think the tank to pump hose shows up on their site. Email them or get the part# from Startek EPC. More expensive at the dealer since I bought it before I realize Autohausaz has after all. Need a 22mm wrench or equivalent at the fuel tank. Pump to filter hose is wrapped around the two cylinders in a very specific way...there are clips to hold the hose right so no wear occurs from vibration. Can't be seen but pay attention and feel the route and clips before dismantling the original hose. It is well thought out, as usual. As for depressuiring, open the filler cap.

omegabenz6

is the high pressure rubber line leaking through some pin holes, shooting fuel all over your exhaust system and differential? Better fix that asap.

Its a RPITA if the connection is rusted. I had to pull my subframe to get to it.

tazz5150

no I do not believe it's a high pressure hose.
thank you for the web direction black-55. I'll check their website to get the needed hoses.
Do you know if it's really hard to replace the whole wiring harness? I did hear that it's time consuming, but is it technically difficult? I'm sure I should look into that since they are common problems for w124s.

Omegabenz6, what is RPITA? - sorry new to the board...

Thank you both for the replies.

appatula

RPITA = Real Pain In The A$$

Should not be too hard if the connections are clean and break free easily, also like black-55 stated be sure to observe everything you undo, everything is placed, bolted, and clipped a certian way for reasons that you DO NOT want to find out .

black-55

If you mean engine wiring harness, it is easy enough. Be sure you have the correct one. Even with the vin#, the dealer (Caliber Mercedes in Anaheim ? several years ago, discounted $200 from $900 to $700) sent me the wrong version. Second one matched all connections exactly. Start by laying the new one roughly in position next to the original still in place. Disconnect battery. 1st plug new harness into ECU and progressive towards the opposite end of the harness, swapping each old connection for new. Probably took between 30 and 60 minutes. Time consuming part was positioning the new wiring exactly as the original. If I did use tools they were simple hand tools. My harness failed when I changed spark plugs. I knew about the harness failure problem so when I moved the coils and plug wires and saw the wire casing crumble before my eyes, well I was scr**ed.

tazz5150

Black-55 thanks for the info. Wow, they're that expensive eh? I'm sure it took you that much time because you knew what to do. But, you give me hope that it's not all that difficult. I was really close to having it done by a shop for hmm.. I forgot the estimate, but it was well over 1k. The shop told me it's almost all day work; very time consuming. Was he yanking my chain?

My car did spark plug harness didn't crumble. I'm not sure if I have to replace the wiring harness, I just know that this model has those problems. Right now, all my other hoses are breaking down. Although the main coolant hoses are ok (I believe they have been replaced when the radiator had gone bad), but the smaller hoses are all cracking. The brake hoses seem to be fine, do I need to replace them too? When I changed my brake pads, the linings seemed ok, but if they are known to crack, I guess I should look into those too.
Wow this car is one big attention \/\/****. Always something!
Atleast the engine is still rocking! haha~
OK. Thank you both for the reply.

I'll see if I could get the parts by this wknd, and for on the car this memorial wknd.

Thanks again~

black-55

If your spark wire casing did not crumble and the car still runs it would seem the harness is new. There should be a part number tag on the harness somewhere, possibly near the primary connection? that if called into MB may tell you if it is the replacement version.

Yes. They were BSing you. No way its an all day project. Probably just masking the part cost with that story.

tazz5150

I have not checked the numbers for the harness, I'll check it when I do the oil change on it. Thanks for the reply.

I've just replaced the leaking hose and it was horrible! Only complaint is that, the hose was not the main culprit. The mechanic was off. (this was a different mechanic) For some reason, the leaking of the gasoline was that the bolt for the metal pipe from fuel pump to fuel filter was loose and caused the leakage, not the deteriorating fuel hose line.

The silver lining; I ended up replacing the fuel pump, and fuel line (I think those two needed to be replaced anyways) and it actually makes a difference in how the car runs!
It was a good thing that it was a long wknd, that car was inside the garage, not being able to move. I'd be really pissed if I had to work the following monday!

Now more things are going wrong. aaarrgh! looks like following wknds, I need to look over the water pump, because water seems to be gathering under the engine. I think it's safe bet that the radiator like the mechanic that told me my fuel line is leaking is not correct.

But if IS the water pump, I will not even want to try. I do not want to mess with the belts.
Question: Is changing water pump a difficult process? I mean with the belt system and all. Do i also change my belts since i'm taking them off anyways? I believe that on my last car that needed the water pump change they recommended me to do that. Finally, how much is a fair price to pay for this get done? I live in SoCal.

thanks for all your replies.

black-55

Sorry, no experience with the cooling system. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe there is only one serpentine belt to drive everything. The belt is about $30+ at Autohausaz (several choices based on options in car > length of belt). I'm sure I came across someone's DIY around here somewhere. Other than correctly routing the belt into position, releasing the belt tensioner is involved. If you can change the fuel filter/pump/etc, then this should be same or easier...

Its probably about time to start a separate thread for each of your projects for the benefit of the rest of the viewers...just a thought.

tazz5150

Yea I should start a new thread.

Just another question, did you experience your a/c spewing off heater as well?

This is the weirdest thing!

Ok.. I'll see you in my new post! haha.

black-55

Not quite sure what you mean but the system is designed to balance a mix of heat and cool to maintain a constant temp. If you set it at 72, then in winter it will heat until 72 and add cool if the cabin temp rises above 72...flip side is true in summer. Called climate control or something like that.

By the way, when replacing the evap, many suggest replacing the heater core at the same time since they are in the same box. I did not. Took that chance since I didn't see many complaints about heater core failures.

I'll chime in on your new posts if I think I can help.

Good luck.