Wulf

I am not sure if new member introductions are supposed to go here but I just wanted to say "Hi'.

I have owned a few Saabs (9-3 and 9-5) in the last 3 years and they have been great cars. I was looking for an older car with higher miles and found a '90 300TE with 143K miles. Lots of service records and the seller was the 2nd owner. Everything checked out and I bought it for $5,000. Exterior and interior are in great shape and it was mostly used in summer only.

I have to get used to the engine because it is a lot less power than what I was used to. But it has been great so far and no problems yet. The only thing is the cruise control is not working and am searching for info and where to start looking for a fix. If anyone can point me in the right direction, it will be greatly appreciated.

I am slowly getting familiar with this car and engine and reading up on a lot of information. I am curious to find out about any specific maintenance that should be done at this mileage but I am sure that is somewhere around here. This post will get me started:
https://mbworld.org/forums/1770833-post3.html

A few pictures taken today:

JSe420

That wagon is cleeeeeeean! Welcome to the site, nice looking wagon.

ArcticOne

Hi and welcome aboard. Nice looking ride. Am envious as an early 90's wagon is next on my list and yours looks sweet.

Cruise issue. Very common problem and lots of threads about it on here and the other MB forums around the web.

Do you have the manual with the car and have you tried to engage / disengage it as per the manual? Does your cruise do anything? Generally at that mileage and that age the amplifier would be a likely target - check the records and see if there is anything.

Some have repaired the amplifier themselves, but I sent mine to General Development Laboratories in CA (http://gdl-online.com/begin.html). Their website has troubleshooting hints and on the phone and by email Peter was awesome to deal with.

Good luck with the vehicle.

jb

Wulf

The cruise doesn't do anything at all when I try to set it. The manual says just to push the stalk up or down. Or is there another switch to actually turn it on first?

ArcticOne

Definitely check out GDL's website and also the threads on the forums. I forget which site I was on but even got a great thread giving details as to how to dismantle the dash to get at the amplifier (its behind the dash just to the right of the headlight switch).

There's also a couple of other common components that go - Speed Sensor on the instrument cluster and the actuator in the engine compartment.

Good luck with the search.

jb

ps2cho

Beautiful wagon!! I hope to one day get my wood installed so I can have that extended wood look that the 90's+ had.

As for the cruise control -- pull off the two black panels to the left/right of steering wheel. They pry up....Remove all screws. Bend down into footwell and remove the screws down there too...and it should pop off. Pretty quick and easy. You also need to remove the hood release button and parking brake too. Both have screws.

Never seen that color before on a wagon! I like it!

Wulf

I'll check into the cruise control, thanks for the suggestions.

The engine feels pretty slow. Is that normal? I timed the 0-60 and I am getting about 11-12 seconds. I just feels a bit sluggish. I know it is only around 180hp but I expected a bit better performance.

ps2cho

Yes you got something going on. Even with my idle misfires, my wagon still pulls around 9sec 0-6. I believe it should be just a little over 8 to be on spec.
You said it runs great though? Any idle fluctuations or any time it seems to "bog" down under acceleration? Hopefully I can lead you in the right direction.

Any info on "how" it accelerates? Slow all the way or does it seem to just stay slow near the bottom end then pick up?

Wulf

It seems to run good. The engine rpm fluctuates a bit when idling but nothing too serious it seems. That may be idle misfires?

It seems slowest at lower rpm from a standstill but isn't very fast throughout the rpm range so pretty much slow all the way. There just doesn't seem to be a lot of torque available. But no engine lights or strange sounds.

ps2cho

If the engine runs nice...you can always leave it alone...but if you are intent on getting back that power then read on. Also, hows your fuel economy? That can indicate pretty well how the engine is. My wagon runs great, but is massively overfueling for some reason as I get about 13mpg average which is terrible in comparison to my 260E which got almost 23mpg last fill up.

Does it feel at all like its starving for gas?
It definitely is slower than it should be...so if you want to tackle that issue, I'd start from the top. Last known history for a tune up? Plugs/Wires/Rotor/Cap? Fuel filter? If in doubt with any of those, I'd start with them as you can get the whole lot new for under $200 and will set you up with a great baseline if you have no history with them.
If it seems to be slow all the way, I'd start with checking the gaps in the spark plugs first before spending any money. The M103 engine is pretty picky on the spark plugs too...what type of plugs are in there if you know? There are always threads "this plug made it run like crap" "this is the correct plug" etc...

PS: Best place online to get all parts from is autohausarizona.com. They have awesome CS and THE best prices anywhere online. I buy everything from them.

efan4ever

Welcome to MB World. Looks like you've got a nice looking ride!

I've enjoyed my 1989 300E that I bought new right after school for almost 20 years. Brought my son home from hospital, visited many cities between Cape Cod and Orlando for annual vacations, baseball games, and hardware store trips, and everything in between - and it never left me stranded once.

I think your color combination is Taupe Metallic over Cream Beige Tex, with Zebrano wood trim. I hope you have the same good experiences with yours that I have had with mine.

Wulf

The distributor cap, rotor, rotor bracket, spark plug wires (Bosch), spark plugs (Bosch Super R0 191 H9DC0), air and fuel filter were replaced by the MB dealer at 130K miles in 2003. The car is now at 144K miles so it seems all those items still should be good. I checked all the plugs and they have a nice brown/greyish color without any fouling. Measured gap was .95mm for all plugs. I think I read the gap should be 0.8 - 0.9 mm so it seems .95 should still be acceptable after 14K miles.

14K miles in the last 6 years is not much so perhaps it is just suffering from a bit of inactivity. I also filled up the tank today and it just feels a little bit quicker already. Perhaps I should replace the fuel filter again because maybe it is a but plugged up with old gummed gas?

At 130.5K miles, the fuel injection valves and all guide tubes and seals were replaced as well.

I'll have to measure the fuel economy in the next week because I haven't driven it that much yet.

Thanks for the help so far. I think I should give it a few weeks to get familiar with the car and engine and go from there. The transmission seems a bit rough shifting, especially from 1st to 2nd. I'll read up on transmission fluid changes to see if that will fix it.

And I need to find a good repair manual. I checked for one from Haynes but haven't found one yet.

pwogaman

I thought you wrote you were looking for a high mileage car. Just so you know, anything under 200K is not quite high mileage with these cars. Yours looks great. I sure you will enjoy it very much.

ps2cho

Great on the tune-up history...sounds right in check.

I would put a can of Seafoam in the tank + intake manifold followed by a couple bottles of techron after that. Maybe some Iso-heet in case there is any water in the tank also.

As for the transmission, any history on the filter? Most hard shifting (assuming fluid+filter are good) can be resolved by adjusting the modulator.

Agreed These engines consistently are seen over 250k miles. At the junkyard they are all 250k-340k miles that I find. Seriously. With the right maintenance, they should probably last even longer.

Wulf

On the right side of the steering wheel, I got the panel loose close to the steering wheel but am not sure how to get the part around the light switch off. Does the entire light switch come out? I am trying not to break anything and don't want to pull too hard.

pwogaman

Use 24mm socket to remove the nut. The switch stays were it is.


I put the switch cover back on so as not to misplace it here:


Sorry about the blurriness here:

pwogaman

Try this one, its free:

W124 CD Manual #1

W124 CD Manual #2

If you need to identify some part numbers try here:

Part numbers

Wulf

Which nut is that? Is that behind the light switch knob? Does that pull off?



Great pictures, that will help out a lot.

pwogaman

Yes, just pull the knob off. The nut is behind it.

ps2cho

Yes just give it a good pull, you won't break anything, promise

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Main.html

^ There is the most useful manual you can use. I uploaded it for all to use...Umphh, I mean for my personal use only.

But I recommend getting a haynes manual as well. Useful when your stranded or need a different description.

Wulf

Great links for all the manuals. I ordered a Haynes manual and I am sure that will help out a lot as well.

A few other things I found out about my new ride.. Headlights are terrible and I keep bumping my head to the grill when working on the engine. i am sure I'll get used to that sooner or later.

I appreciate all your time explaining these basic things to a newbie. I have been searching on the forum here but some of the info is a bit difficult to find. Is there a FAQ somewhere?

I am reading up on euro headlights and lots of info about that. I am looking at these and send a message to the seller to see who the manufacturer of these lights is.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...lenotsupported

If there are any other good sources for these lights, please let me know.

I'll check out the cruise amp this evening. At least now I know how to get to it.

ps2cho

No real FAQ, some of us have wanted to start one for common questions/problems/solutions, but nothing has started as of yet.

Hitting head on grill? You know the hood goes up vertical right? There are tabs on each side you gotta push in one by one and it will go all the way up. I always put it all the way up for that exact reason

Those are the DEPO Euros. I have them on both my wagon and 260E (as of last week) and I love them. Other than spending $800 on OEM Bosch Euro's, these are the best option if you don't want anything looking too cheap and "ricer".

Also get them from this seller. $50 cheaper than the one you listed. I got mine 2 days after ordering he ships real fast.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BENZ-...Q5fAccessories

If you do get them, I can upload the pictures I took on how to install them. Takes about an hour for both. You need the Euro connectors too though as the # of pins change.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=250443485865 (ps each purchase is for two connectors in this auction).

Wulf

That must be the best tip so far.

I was able to get the CC amp out. The circuit board and solder points look perfectly fine but I am not sure if you can actually see any failing points on the circuit board.

I wouldn't mind getting a remanufactured unit if I would be sure this is the problem. I don't have a multimeter so I couldn't do the other tests as described on the GDL website.

ps2cho

I'm not sure, but in the 2nd picture, top right the solder point looks a little brown? Maybe touch it up? I have fixed problems that looked as innocent as that does.

Glad you like the hood tip I remember when I first saw it I gasped ...never seen such a thing in my short-lived life so far.

190E 16V

I believe that the 3rd stoplight bulb needs to be working order for the cruise to work. My W201 190E, developed at the same time, and sharing many of the same components and systems, had this problem. The bulb was out in the 3rd (high level) brakelight. Once replaced, problem solved.

Maybe that's too simple?

Worth a try...