We have a 1993 400e, We left it for a couple of months and when we come home the key will not turn in the ignition. We have 2 masters, 2 flats and a valet - none will turn. The steering wheel was not locked when I tried first, it is now and I have tried wiggling (wrenching) on it. WD40 in the keyhole, a little (lot actually) silicone lubricant - still can't turn the key more that 2 degrees.

Any ideas?

What's the remedy? Guy from the street corner downtown? Large screwdriver and a hammer??

 

I think it might be the overvoltage protection relay, which sits behind the battery. This happened to my car once (I put the key in the ignition, it turns just a millimeter, but the engine will not turn over), and I made the mistake of having the car jumped. It was fine after it was jumped, but it turns out the problem was the OVP relay needed replacing.

 

My battery is in the trunk! (boot)

 

No I don't believe this is an OVP issue.

Can you turn it at all to any notches?

I'm not sure if the 400E has the same lock cylinder as the 300E, but without the ability to turn it....either A) expect several hundred dollars at a local indy B) Expect quite a few hours with a the dremel to get the face + lock cover off enough to insert the tool to release the spring inside. If you search my username I have a thread on my replacement.

 

After much struggling I can sometimes turn it about 1 1/2 degrees - that's NOT a notch!!

Looks like I need to replace/Defeat it!

I'm in Canada and in awe of the prices you folks pay for parts and service - I am sure that this lock will cost me in excess of $200 and at least another $100 to have it keyed to my current key.

The 400E is a great car and I love it but after 35 years in the computer business you KNOW what my gripe is! If I could remove all the computers from this car it would be FABULOUS! So I'm thinking to install a switch and a push button somewhere out of sight. I am going to look at your thread - will it tell me what I need? It looks like
I have to remove a bunch of the the lower dash to get at it?

Remove the light switch knob?

I have the CD's but they are not great for the 400E - I usually look up the 300E. Any other tips would be appreciated..

Thank a whole bunch already!

 

hi - the car's ignition refused to turn is a common problem for mercedes cars built in the 1980-1990's. Over time the ignition barrel wears out.....just wear and tear....

the common solution is to get :
1 - a temporary key and ignition barrel from the stealership....this is cheaper solution....but you will have an extra key......

or

2 - get a new identical key and barrel from the stealership....this is a hassle and time comsuming solution....where you will need to verify the ownership of the car.....and costly.....

or

3 - as you have mentioned....change the igniton to be push-start....

 

If you plan to hack it off by yourself to save money, yes remove all the lower dash elements because you need as much space as you can get.

I believe autohauzarizona ships internationally? You can get the tumbler for $17 USD...so might be worth considering.

 

Thanks Guys,

Your input is really helpful and greatly appreciated.

We are up North in the bush for another couple of weeks (no access to iNet) but we will want the car when we get back, So I'm still thinking of doing the "push-button" thing because it will be faster (hope!) and the extra security is attractive.

Just wondering if there is anything else I should be looking out for? Is it a fairly straight forward ignition switch? IGN, ACC, Start kind of thing? Or is there something else I have to take care of?

Also, anyone know how to get to the bolt(s) around the light switch? Most of it has trim that pops off, but I can't see how to release that section.

 

...you burn the car???

I will detail my experiences here for the benefit of those that follow but my question (HELP PLEASE) is at the end if you don't want to read all this - thanks.

Well Got new ingition parts from Autopartsway.ca - Barrel, cover, body and switch. Sprung $10 to the Stealership or the 3 screws that hold the switch on (Part# 124 990 01 32).

Cut thru' the screws on the old switch to get it out of the car. Couple of tips for anyone following this, 1) the screws are 3/4" and heads are at the bottom of the electrical switch - pick which part you are going to cut. 2) Wear a mask!

Inside the switch (falls out as I take it apart) is a plastic cam-style switch which connects to the "in park" cable. Didn't come with my new lock body and I wish I had ordered it also - part#124 462 14 75.

The other thing that I wish I had ordered is the switch that is on the side of the lock body (part # 124 545 04 14). I guess this thing slides out but it doesn't seem to want to move. So I look at the new parts and it looks like it maybe locked until you turn the key.

My key still won't turn even with all the pins removed from the tumbler and the switch removed from the back. So there is something messed up in the main body of the lock. I try drilling to release the switch - bad move!!! I thought it was just a clip to stop you removing it but it is actually a switch that follows a cam inside the body. So it's still not coming off - I take my zip blade and cut the sucker in two!! Good move, too late!! I now get the switch off but it is buggered by my drilling!!


QUESTION.

Here's a pic of the switch from the side of my lock body..

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1254529038

I look up the part# on Autopartsway.ca and it is different from the one I have - it's only half of it. This is what it looks like..

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1254529305

This switch is pretty simple - it makes one circuit and breaks the the other, so here's the problem...

If I can't get the correct replacement - WHAT DOES THIS SWITCH DO? And what can I do if I can't get it replaced??

 

Does it slide on the side of the steering lock? Im not sure but it could be the part that causes the chime noise when you forget to remove the key when exiting the car. Usually changing the lock tumbler/coverplate would be enough to fix this issue and I recommend changing the switch because it goes out as well because its just plastic. Here is a picture of the setup. Are the parts you received from this site OEM ?

 

This part is not shown on your schematic

Yes it slides onto the ignition body, on the arm that enters the steering column.

The tumbler is OEM rest are MB

 

Yea I think its the key reminder, but I would have to double check. I am out of work for about a week due to surgery, but I will look into it. Send me a pm if you don't hear back I don't frequent this forum. OEM and MB are the same to me maybe by oem you are thinking aftermarket? Sometimes they are missing some parts when you buy them after market. I do not think it shows in the diagram because it comes with #5 but if yours is aftermarket it maybe have been missing.

 

You may well be right but the original switch has 2 separate circuits, when the switch is activated it makes one connection and breaks the other. The replacement part only has the one circuit. So I don't know what to do with the second circuit or what it is for. If I make it or break it (circuit) permanently what will have been disabled?

 

Promised I would come back and finish off this thread - better late than never.

This problem hasn't been reported before as far as I can see.

I cut the screws holding the electrical switch on, still couldn't "turn the key". No key (or anything else) left by now. It seems that the column interlock is worn to the point that it no longer operates and has got itself into a totally locked position. So there was probably nothing wrong with the tumbler at all!!

I assume that this is what happens if you turn the new tumbler without the key in it (requires factory reset) but nobody before has noticed that this can happen just from normal wear and usage.

Figure I needed a new body anyway so I cut it to get it rather than the switch. I was right and the switch is still like new but I replaced it anyway because it was by far the cheapest part. The new switch doesn't have the interlock and so you can remove the electrical plug without the key. That's fine 'cause I don't really expect anyone to try stealing a 1993 car anyway! Still rather like closing the barn door after the horse has bolted, what?

Thanks for all your help everybody, you make this a GREAT forum!

Anyone having similar problems try emailing me - glad to help if I can.

 

Had to wait several weeks for a replacement for the little switch that is on the side. Yes this activates your key reminder and something else that I never did figure out.

I like the key reminder so when I got the part I tore her all apart again and installed it. waste of time!! The key reminder doesn't work I and i still don't miss what ever the heck else it does!

Also be aware that illustrations of this part are "generic" and look nothing like the part you will actually receive. Although the part did look a lot like the original!

 

My car just finish install a new water pump, then key stuck, only turn to SRS and back, after many times turn back and fort the key come out, I did clean with air compressor can and add some wb40....but still moving to SRS and that set non start no contact open, no light in dash show any, only SRS after few seconds shut off, key moving very free like normal, but against no more that SRS light on that moved. Can help some body on this , Thanks.
PD: I did disconnect battery for a hours and check all fuses, battery is a good condition.

 

Can't quite understand you. This problem has been written up A LOT.

Search for more threads.

Also try the forums at peachparts.com and benzworld.ORG.

Several of us have posted complete descriptions of this repair with photos.

Search for my posts on all 3 websites.

Also, if you were French, Spanish etc. I would recommend using a free on-line translator to improve your posting - maybe there is one for Japanese? (I have never looked!)

 

I have a 92 300 e 2.6 that the key suddenly won't turn. So I need to replace the key at a Mercedes dealer our the whole tumbler? Please help!

 

If you have time shop on-line. 1/5 of the price and probably come with MB stamp on it.

Mine wasn't just the tumbler but start there or maybe just spend out for the whole switch right off - depends if you have time.

You will stll need a Dremel or equiv. and stand on your head grinding for an hour or 2!! (or you can PAY someone to do the same thing and they will take twice as long.)

Goof luck. I'm off the grid for 2 weeks.

 

I got a replacement tumbler from a Dealership in NJ, it was 95.00 and came with the key.

If you can get the key to turn remove the tumbler immediately! It will save you hours of destruction!
Here is a good write up.
I have done this job in less than 30 minutes, and I am no pro!

http://home.comcast.net/~chwilka/rep..._lock_cyl.html

 

That's the most simple case! Be wonderful if that works for you! Check ALL the posts on this.

Your car is 23 years old. If, like mine, the mechanics of the switch itself are worn, your would be wise to replace the whole thing. My price at the stealership was over $400 just for the switch body - about $115 online! As mentioned over and over, it takes HOURS of hard GRIND to remove if it has worn to the point the the key won't turn at all. ( I do salute MB for their security!!!)

If I had given the job to the Stealership it would have been over $1,000.

For the extra $120 or so you will be suicidal if it fails later!!!

Good luck.

 

2003 s500, I'm not able to unlock car with keyfob and if I leave the car unlocked, the key won't turn in the ignition. If I press the unlock button on the keyfob a bunch of times (about 100 times) the car wakes up and all works ok. This is becoming more of a issue since outside temps. are droping... does any one have a sugestion? thank you...Mike

 

Your key-fob probably has a battery in it - they last a long time but not forever. That doesn't explain your other problems but it's worth trying if you haven't already.

I'm not familiar with the 2003 but don't you have a door keylock? What happens if you use that?

On the '93 there are 3 reasons why the key won't turn... 1) Gear not in PARK. 2) Steering wheel lock is binding (wiggle the wheel!) and 3) it is faulty.

Hope someone else has more experience and can be more help.