Evaporator replacement via Blower motor?
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Evaporator replacement via Blower motor?
http://www.2phast.com/190E/ac.htm
Would this technique work in the w124 chassis or is the evap located differently?
Just getting some information in case my evap is the cause of my A/C leak on 260E...
Would this technique work in the w124 chassis or is the evap located differently?
Just getting some information in case my evap is the cause of my A/C leak on 260E...
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300TE / 300E / 300CE
http://www.2phast.com/190E/ac.htm
Would this technique work in the w124 chassis or is the evap located differently?
Just getting some information in case my evap is the cause of my A/C leak on 260E...
Would this technique work in the w124 chassis or is the evap located differently?
Just getting some information in case my evap is the cause of my A/C leak on 260E...
Last edited by pifcat2; Dec 1, 2009 at 09:39 PM.
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300TE / 300E / 300CE
I like how you think but the climate module is self contained and then sealed to the body. Even if you could cut an access, you'd have to seal it somehow. You may only need to remove the dash and climate assembly once in the car's life...
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2010 VW Golf TDI
I think I really might need to consider getting a W201! I do like them; they still look a lot like a W124 and they are just a bit smaller and more tossable.
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95' AMG SeeThreeSix
I too like how you think and personally, I'd ike to see if this is possible! They say for this particular job that the car was "built around" the evaporator, If I'm not mistaken the same goes for the heater core. The official shop labor time for a dealer to do this job is in excess of 20+ hrs with all the correct tools.
I've seen the core under the blower motor and it is indeed placed from inside the car resting on a rectangular flange, as always keep us posted!
I've seen the core under the blower motor and it is indeed placed from inside the car resting on a rectangular flange, as always keep us posted!
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I knew of one with a 5 speed who did very well in autocross. I expect it's a different car, different feel. They may not have as comfortable a ride as the W124...
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So it IS in the same place as the 190E?
I'm thinking of going to the junkyard and having a test run of this idea...All I need is an absolute confirmation its in the same place and I'll hack away to my hearts content! Anything to avoid pulling the entire dash apart...
I'm thinking of going to the junkyard and having a test run of this idea...All I need is an absolute confirmation its in the same place and I'll hack away to my hearts content! Anything to avoid pulling the entire dash apart...
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Having removed the module, I think it's too complex to cut through the firewall and the module. I haven't studied the evap or heater replacement instructions but it's not too difficult to remove just the dash top if you can pull the evap from above. You can remove the dash in an hour. If you have to remove the complete climate module then I can see it escalate to 10 not 20 hours for R&R. I had a hard time separating the module from the firewall with the seal and hidden brackets. Besides, you need to remove the dash to replace most of the vacuum pods anyway...
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From: Southeast PA
2010 VW Golf TDI
The W201 C280 sounds pretty good for me; another straight 6 cylinder that is a bit smaller but it is in a smaller car. Of course you can look for the AMG V8 versions if you really need lots of juice.
Actually, I am having my evaporator replaced in April in my 1995 E320. I just came back from getting my annual inspection sicker and I had no issues. My Indy told me April would be a good time to do the evaporator. He said it is better to do it when the AC will run more often than in the winter, but maybe I wouldn't want to wait so long as to have to drive in too much heat without AC. I love my Indy.
So far the leaky head gasket is hanging in there along with the old cracked wring harness and the transmission shift flair isn't getting any worse. I told my Indy I just hope I don't have to fix everything at one time, like within a week of each other. Step by step I will get all the issues addressed and hope for another 100K+ miles of enjoyable driving in my W124.
I really do love driving my aging beautiful W124 and just can't bring myself to buy a different car, even if it might be faster, quieter, and more modern in any number of ways.
Right now I think my wife is going to get a new car so we can give her car to my son. My wife loves her Honda and it has never had a single issue. It is a 2001. Considering how good it has been and how good the local Honda dealer has been, I am pretty sure my wife will get another Accord. I will be happy to stay in my car.
Actually, I am having my evaporator replaced in April in my 1995 E320. I just came back from getting my annual inspection sicker and I had no issues. My Indy told me April would be a good time to do the evaporator. He said it is better to do it when the AC will run more often than in the winter, but maybe I wouldn't want to wait so long as to have to drive in too much heat without AC. I love my Indy.
So far the leaky head gasket is hanging in there along with the old cracked wring harness and the transmission shift flair isn't getting any worse. I told my Indy I just hope I don't have to fix everything at one time, like within a week of each other. Step by step I will get all the issues addressed and hope for another 100K+ miles of enjoyable driving in my W124.
I really do love driving my aging beautiful W124 and just can't bring myself to buy a different car, even if it might be faster, quieter, and more modern in any number of ways.Right now I think my wife is going to get a new car so we can give her car to my son. My wife loves her Honda and it has never had a single issue. It is a 2001. Considering how good it has been and how good the local Honda dealer has been, I am pretty sure my wife will get another Accord. I will be happy to stay in my car.
Last edited by ksing44; Dec 3, 2009 at 07:11 AM.
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Having removed the module, I think it's too complex to cut through the firewall and the module. I haven't studied the evap or heater replacement instructions but it's not too difficult to remove just the dash top if you can pull the evap from above. You can remove the dash in an hour. If you have to remove the complete climate module then I can see it escalate to 10 not 20 hours for R&R. I had a hard time separating the module from the firewall with the seal and hidden brackets. Besides, you need to remove the dash to replace most of the vacuum pods anyway...
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95' AMG SeeThreeSix
I'm not trying to insult anyone's expertise here, however, as opposed to what you "think' or "assume" the very few brave DIYers that have ACTUALLY done this job and documented thes process have logged labor hours close to the 20 hour estimate. They also generally come to the conclusion that is it a complete bear of a job to do. Read up on it for yourself. Cutting into the firewall from underneath the blower motor would save tons of time however it is still a very tight area to work/cut and I'm not sure if there are bolts that you will need access to from the other side in order to remove the piping, brackets ect. I have never done this job.
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95' AMG SeeThreeSix
Here is a decent idea of a fellow reflecting on his evaporator replacement it may help you out: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?p=962074
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There are about five other good threads on peachparts dot com forum about 124 evaporator replacement.
The assembly containing the evaporator and the heater core is called the heater box.
The first time I replaced an evaporator took about twenty four hours over two weeks. I did it very carefully, marked or laid out every part sequentially, and had a glass of wine by my side throughout
The second one took about fifteen hours over a weekend and a few week nights.
Attached is section 83-554 from the FSM, which ps2cho should read.
Pics are car interior with heater box out, the badly-designed-dam-you-german-engineered leaking evaporator, and the evil heater box itself.
The assembly containing the evaporator and the heater core is called the heater box.
The first time I replaced an evaporator took about twenty four hours over two weeks. I did it very carefully, marked or laid out every part sequentially, and had a glass of wine by my side throughout
The second one took about fifteen hours over a weekend and a few week nights.Attached is section 83-554 from the FSM, which ps2cho should read.
Pics are car interior with heater box out, the badly-designed-dam-you-german-engineered leaking evaporator, and the evil heater box itself.
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From: Southeast PA
2010 VW Golf TDI
My Indy told me it really is a very straight forward job, even though it is a big job. He also assured me that parts were removed with bolts and screws, so it wasn’t a plastic clip mess that would never fit together properly again with squeaks and rattles of all kinds. I’m not nearly as worried about it as I was in the past. I trust my Indy and it will not be the first time they had a dash out in one of these cars. No worries, if you have an experienced and trusted Indy.
More and more, I think some horror stories are from shade tree mechanics that really don’t know all that much about what the heck they are doing. Sure they are better than I am at fixing their cars, but they probably couldn’t make a living fixing cars for others. I think a good Indy is worth what you pay to have their expertise and experience to help solve whatever happens in one of these aging beauties. I wouldn’t be surprised if the guys that are my Indy have had the dash out in dozens of these cars, since their dads started the shop many years ago and they have since taken over the business.
In ten years or so, I will let you know if I was right about my decision to keep this beautiful thing on the road.
More and more, I think some horror stories are from shade tree mechanics that really don’t know all that much about what the heck they are doing. Sure they are better than I am at fixing their cars, but they probably couldn’t make a living fixing cars for others. I think a good Indy is worth what you pay to have their expertise and experience to help solve whatever happens in one of these aging beauties. I wouldn’t be surprised if the guys that are my Indy have had the dash out in dozens of these cars, since their dads started the shop many years ago and they have since taken over the business.
In ten years or so, I will let you know if I was right about my decision to keep this beautiful thing on the road.
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Mercedes-Benz 500E
Just to set the record straight
I was the A/C guy at our dealer and did many of these in 129,124,and 140 body cars. Listen carefully. YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE EVAP OR HEATER CORE IN THESE CARS WITHOUT REMOVING THE HEATER BOX. Best of luck if you want to find another way but I promise you that as a flat rate tech I would have found a faster way if there was one. On these cars the heater box is like the keel of a ship. Everything else on the car is assembled after this box goes in the chassis. It all comes apart pretty fast but the fun starts when you have to make all the parts fit back together correctly. There are several steel braces that must be installed in the correct order or you will spend several hours swearing. I learned the hard way on the first ones I did. It IS straight forward if you are a professional tech and deal with these jobs on a regular basis. You can DIY but be prepared to have the car down for quite awhile. The 201 chassis was cake compared to the others. Good luck!
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95' AMG SeeThreeSix
I suppose I got my point across. I was more or less referring to the DIYer doing the job, however, even at that I'm sure its not a job that a good indy (that has done it several times) really looks forward to. Never read any horror stories, just that its time consuming and a pain in the ****.
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I'll definitely DIY it if the evap is leaking...Thanks for all the info guys. This sets me up much better. I will do it myself as its probably a $1000 job with an Indy. Time consuming, but not that difficult is no problem 
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20+ hours for $1k, that's only $50/hr! I doubt you can find that shop rate in CA...
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95' AMG SeeThreeSix
Agree, you'll be saving upwards of at the very LEAST $1000 DIYing this job. Another thing to think of while you have the dash apart are the vacuum pods that control the climate control flaps. You can test to see what ones need replacing by seeing how well they each hold vacuum through the distribution block (located in the passenger side directly back from the glove compartment.)
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Agree, you'll be saving upwards of at the very LEAST $1000 DIYing this job. Another thing to think of while you have the dash apart are the vacuum pods that control the climate control flaps. You can test to see what ones need replacing by seeing how well they each hold vacuum through the distribution block (located in the passenger side directly back from the glove compartment.)
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Given the necessary labor, maybe it's better to upgrade to post '92 134a OEM designed components. I realize R12 is better for the early cars because they were not designed for 134a but all newer cars are designed for the cheaper 134a gas and work fine...
I'm also curious what the techs actually charge for this service. $1k? $2.5k? How many justify the job for the value of the car?
I'm also curious what the techs actually charge for this service. $1k? $2.5k? How many justify the job for the value of the car?
