Transmission issue: Upshift Delay Fault and other
12-13-2009, 02:28 AM
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1994 C124 E320 Coupe - 1975 W116 280S
Transmission issue: Upshift Delay Fault and other
Hey all.
I need some help.
Within the last month, I go to check the codes just in case anything has popped up. it's a usual routine since my CEL comes on anyway from the stupid EGR valve code.
So I run through and get an Upshift Delay Valve issue. I've heard through the grapevine, though not clearly, that this issue is just as insignificant as the EGR code.
But here's an issue I also developed when driving.
Within the next week, some upshifts in when driving have been kinda lethargic. It does it in an inconsistent pattern so I'm left scratching my head.
Background. 94 E320 Coupe. 129,8xx miles. Tranny serviced, flushed and new fluid/filter last summer, at 120k service interval.
It seems like anywhere between 1-40% throttle, 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th shifts take longer and aren't as firm as they should be. And when the shifts occur, engine revs flare up and then it shifts. Whenever this happens it seems to be at city speeds. Downshifts seem to be unaffected, and even kickdowns seem fine.
To help describe it best, it's like it's shifting when the car is cold, and the upshift delay valve IS working...or for example, when it comes to shift....it's like OK...upshift time...clutch disengage...wait....shift delay?.....then engage clutch. I can video to help you guys see it better.
Also, when I've been driving for a while and this happens...I put my hand on the shift stalk and I don't feel any heat radiating from it (taken from the guide to shift modulation...that if shifts are too soft then that produces heat at the clutch).
It's been really cold recently, can that have a slight effect?
I'm just most worried about my transmission starting to go.
Can the upshift delay valve cause this?
The other thing that it can be is maybe a faulty tranny shift modulator? I ask this one because I made a thread that whenever I stretch the legs out (meaning 90-120 MPH) for a couple miles, and then let off but get on the throttle to maintain the speedlimit, I get smoke trailing from the back and the smell of a sort of oil. Someone said that my tranny modulator valve can be leaking in that thread.
What could this be guys and what could use fixing? Any help = awesome cuz I drive daily for work, my parents are going through a divorce and my family just had to disown my sister over some issues so I or my family cannot afford a new trans or probably even a mech appt to fix this and my 280S is out of commission for bad brakes.
I need some help.
Within the last month, I go to check the codes just in case anything has popped up. it's a usual routine since my CEL comes on anyway from the stupid EGR valve code.
So I run through and get an Upshift Delay Valve issue. I've heard through the grapevine, though not clearly, that this issue is just as insignificant as the EGR code.
But here's an issue I also developed when driving.
Within the next week, some upshifts in when driving have been kinda lethargic. It does it in an inconsistent pattern so I'm left scratching my head.
Background. 94 E320 Coupe. 129,8xx miles. Tranny serviced, flushed and new fluid/filter last summer, at 120k service interval.
It seems like anywhere between 1-40% throttle, 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th shifts take longer and aren't as firm as they should be. And when the shifts occur, engine revs flare up and then it shifts. Whenever this happens it seems to be at city speeds. Downshifts seem to be unaffected, and even kickdowns seem fine.
To help describe it best, it's like it's shifting when the car is cold, and the upshift delay valve IS working...or for example, when it comes to shift....it's like OK...upshift time...clutch disengage...wait....shift delay?.....then engage clutch. I can video to help you guys see it better.
Also, when I've been driving for a while and this happens...I put my hand on the shift stalk and I don't feel any heat radiating from it (taken from the guide to shift modulation...that if shifts are too soft then that produces heat at the clutch).
It's been really cold recently, can that have a slight effect?
I'm just most worried about my transmission starting to go.
Can the upshift delay valve cause this?
The other thing that it can be is maybe a faulty tranny shift modulator? I ask this one because I made a thread that whenever I stretch the legs out (meaning 90-120 MPH) for a couple miles, and then let off but get on the throttle to maintain the speedlimit, I get smoke trailing from the back and the smell of a sort of oil. Someone said that my tranny modulator valve can be leaking in that thread.
What could this be guys and what could use fixing? Any help = awesome cuz I drive daily for work, my parents are going through a divorce and my family just had to disown my sister over some issues so I or my family cannot afford a new trans or probably even a mech appt to fix this and my 280S is out of commission for bad brakes.
Last edited by Chinny4290; 12-13-2009 at 02:30 AM.
12-13-2009, 10:37 AM
#2
Sounds like it could be a K1 shift spring candidate...That or the vacuum modulator is out of spec.
I have the same flare, but worse acting on my 300TE. I'm pulling the tranny out to do the front seal and while its out I am going to be doing the K1 shift kit to make the flaring stop. I believe it works on 722.3/4/5 so it applies to you as well.
If you accelerate hard to 5-6k rpm does it flare worse or slip at that rpm?
I have the same flare, but worse acting on my 300TE. I'm pulling the tranny out to do the front seal and while its out I am going to be doing the K1 shift kit to make the flaring stop. I believe it works on 722.3/4/5 so it applies to you as well.
If you accelerate hard to 5-6k rpm does it flare worse or slip at that rpm?
Last edited by ps2cho; 12-13-2009 at 10:41 AM.
12-13-2009, 12:00 PM
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2010 VW Golf TDI
I am not an expert, but I think the flair may be an indication that your transmission is going. The good news is that it can last a long time even with a flair. I had a shift flair and reduced it with a vacuum modulator adjustment. It is a simple adjustment. It has been about 3 years now since I first noticed the flair. I was concerned about blowing reverse by making the shifts too firm with too much pressure, since you will see in some of the explanations in the link below that reverse may be more susceptible to damage from too much pressure. I started with one full turn clockwise to increase the vacuum, but then reduced it to only a half a turn. Depending on conditions, I may or may not have a little flair, but it isn't too bad. I am also careful with reverse. I only shift in and out of reverse when the car is completely stopped.
Note that at first I thought I fixed the problem with the Bowden cable adjustment, but I was wrong. The vacuum modulator was the key for me.
The link below has more links to help you.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=182598
Note that at first I thought I fixed the problem with the Bowden cable adjustment, but I was wrong. The vacuum modulator was the key for me.
The link below has more links to help you.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=182598
Last edited by ksing44; 12-13-2009 at 12:13 PM.
12-13-2009, 02:51 PM
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1994 C124 E320 Coupe - 1975 W116 280S
Sounds like it could be a K1 shift spring candidate...That or the vacuum modulator is out of spec.
I have the same flare, but worse acting on my 300TE. I'm pulling the tranny out to do the front seal and while its out I am going to be doing the K1 shift kit to make the flaring stop. I believe it works on 722.3/4/5 so it applies to you as well.
If you accelerate hard to 5-6k rpm does it flare worse or slip at that rpm?
I have the same flare, but worse acting on my 300TE. I'm pulling the tranny out to do the front seal and while its out I am going to be doing the K1 shift kit to make the flaring stop. I believe it works on 722.3/4/5 so it applies to you as well.
If you accelerate hard to 5-6k rpm does it flare worse or slip at that rpm?
Hard WOT it seems perfectly fine.
12-14-2009, 03:58 AM
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1993 400E, 1994 E420, 2000 SL500, 2014 C250
I'm curious about this as well. If I go easy on the throttle through first and second gear, it seems like it takes forever to shift. I have no choice but to give it gas and at least get it to 2k so that it will shift smooth. If not, it shifts at 1700k and shifts kinda rough. ? 
