BurnsSide42

Long time car enthusiast - Saab technician - currently shop manager for a corporation brand. I recently just added a 1988 MB 300TE to my fleet for $200 (needed a fuel pump relay to run) And it has 195/60/15 General cheap directionals on it. I want to replace the tires with a much more agressive all season tire - but at the same time I'd like to put the largest functional tire onto it. The car calls for a 195/65/15 - I figure a 205/60/15 would be OK - but curious as to what others have and how wide I can safely go without rubbing concerns. The car will be my Daily Driver/Mobil Diagnostic & Repair vehicle. Not planning to spen much on the car outside of what it needs. Thanks all in advance for the welcome and and advise.
Pictures can be seen here of the beast;
http://picasaweb.google.com/BurnsSid...8Mercedes300TE

Chappy

205 60 15s work nicely on stock wheels.

CloakingDevice

Not exactly answering the width question, but I recently put Pirelli P4's on mine at the stock size, with a slightly lower speed rating (hey, it's a family car), and I consider them the best handling/noise/price/longevity deal. They are really fantastic in the wet and I occasionally scare myself after realizing how fast I have effortlessly taken a corner... then smile. Much better grip than the Michelins it had, and cheaper. 130,000 km warranty too. But, 205/60/15 will work.

Since you're concerned about cost and it's a daily driver, I'd say save a few bucks and use the funds to upgrade the headlights to euro glass style and fix the antenna and paint, and put the rest into the engine/suspension preventative maintenance... for $200 it will likely want some.

BurnsSide42

I replace the broken bezel already - and the lights are glass - there are better I take it because you can't see for sh*t with these at night w/out high beams.

Pneumatic locks do not work

A/C Not working

Defrost blasts MAX heat onto glass

Any ideas?

CloakingDevice

Oh, too bad about the bezel, because the best way to improve the lighting is to replace the whole crappy US DOT assembly with the euro lights... either with cheap plastic-lens types like these or with proper glass lenses, either the bosch / hella OEMs for over $500, or serviceable imitations like these. If you do that, you'll have to get 6-pin plugs such as are used on the rear taillights, or adapter wires, or do some splicing.

I'm going through this right now.


I'm a new benz owner too, so still learning about the quirks, but there are quite a few posts on this and similar fora (e.g. benzworld.org) about repairing leaks and restoring function to the vacuum system.


Evaporators on these models are a weak point and common failure... though it may just need recharging.


That's a feature, not a bug! The design principle is if you need to see, you need to do so immediately; otherwise, cabin climate is controlled by the other settings. It overrides the other settings because it is meant to be used temporarily. I like it, it means no fiddling when driving, just hit the button and go.

Good luck. Fabulous all-around vehicle, you'll find it worth the effort.

BurnsSide42

My other issue aside from it needing an alignment is that it seems to need rear cradle bushings - so I think.

What it does:

When accelerating the car feels as if it "kicks" the rear off to the right aiming the car left - and as soon as you let off it will return right/straight. It basically is a dog-legging or crab walking effect upon throttle. Does this sound like a fairly accurate guess? If so - what is involved in the replacement of these bushings - more special tools, or a nice saw blade and some ford ball joint press tools lol I plan to put the car up on a lift this week sometime - as I still need to get it inspected after I go over it ensuring it's worthy of a sticker.

Aside from that it has a small power-steering drip (not enough to worry me currently) and It could use a good ignition tune up as it will miss a bit at a stop when in gear. Plugs and possible distributor cap & rotor with cords may be in order to rectify this.

Does anyone have a good vac. diagram for these engines? I have a few lines which don't seem to have a home.....

BurnsSide42

I sure like the look of the nicer ones - even the price doesn't seem too out of hand - will put those on the want list of future upgrades.

All I would need for connectors is a set of rear tail lamp connectors if I understand you to wire them up - yes? They don't come with the proper connectors I guess. Euro Saab lights use the same harness connectors which is much smarter of a design and cleaner for installing. This is my 1995 9000 Super CS;



Has;
TD04HL-15T Turbo Upgrade
Stage 4 Tune
SAS Front and Rear 22MM Sway Bars
Bilstien HD Suspension all 4 corners
Aero Springs
Custom 3" Turbo Back Exhaust
85' Turbo Exhaust Cam
Anniversary Aero Wheels
Still an Auto-tragic - But I will be Installing a Proper Trans This Summer
Has 144,xxx miles
Will Be Installing Full Aero Body Kit

ps2cho

^ That would be the rear control arm bushings toast...You need to buy all new rear control arms as the bushings are non-replaceable. It is a common item. Many places such as autohausaz sell a kit with all bolts and everything you need.

BurnsSide42

oh wow - that site does offer a nice kit package for $233.69
Part Number 2103509999MY for those who need to do the same.

Assuming the bolts come out - how difficult of a job is this if I put the car up on a lift - mind you I was a Saab tech for over 4 years and still activley wrench for work and side work - just mostly on school buses these days. Looks like about 2 hours of solid work if it all goes smooth....

ps2cho

I haven't done mine yet...but the parts are sitting in a box ready as soon as my transmission is back in. I was going to do them, but when had everything apart, I found out I needed the bolts (I bought from ebay a long time ago....) as the ones were not reusable. I bought the bolts kit, but just hadn't got around to it. 2 years later...almost!

ds190

$200 for a TE in reasonable condition bought by a capable DIY person is freakin unbelievable Good buy.

What exactly does "AC not working" mean?. Details if you expect good answer. Also use "Search" function up top.

The climate control unit (CCU) fail safe mode is as you describe- full blast defrost. If that's all you've got, most likely that CCU is dying, a common problem.

You will soon learn there are rubber connectors in the vacuum systems that can rot. Your non-functioning locks could be a rotted rubber connector somewhere, a loose vacuum hose somewhere, and/or a bad vacuum pump. The pump lives under the passenger rear seat. To get to it, remove the right seat bottom, remove the plastic sill trim piece (just pulls up to unsnap), remove the plastic "tacks" by the door sill, remove the two plastic surrounds on the seat cushion posts, and then lift the carpet piece inwards towards car center. The pump is in a foam rubber container under the sound absorbing mat.

My TE is also the work car and the tailgating vehicle. It's so great that one can haul 10' peices of lumber or pipe, or carry 7 people!

Gent Shkodrani

So did anyone finally manage to come up with the propper tyre sizes? Am awaiting to find out too plz