Ebay Knock off Klann Compressor? opinions please?
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Ebay Knock off Klann Compressor? opinions please?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...motiveQ5fTools
Above is a link to a compressor Kit. I know it is a knock off. Has anyone ever used one and will it safely work. Is there a better alternative?
Thanks
Gary
Above is a link to a compressor Kit. I know it is a knock off. Has anyone ever used one and will it safely work. Is there a better alternative?
Thanks
Gary
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
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From: Mid atlantic
6.9
Ditto on the "its fine". I used my knockoff first time Sat, worked as it should. If I were using that tool all day every day then I'd spring for the OM one, but for ocassional use the knockoff can't be beat.
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From: So Cal
92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
I one one as well and have used it twice without issue. I actually just got it back from ynvdizw124, whom I rented it to over the past week. Worked well for him too.
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From: So. Cal.
97R129-01W163-94E320-93500E
I own a set and have used it several times with no issue. But, when you are working with things with stored energy like compressed spring, you need to take all the necessary precautions. And always be prepared and know where to position your self in case something slips or breaks.
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1990 300ce 24v I6
I own a set and have used it several times with no issue. But, when you are working with things with stored energy like compressed spring, you need to take all the necessary precautions. And always be prepared and know where to position your self in case something slips or breaks.
This would be such a situation... However, I really would like the ability to try out the H&R Sports on my car without an install fee
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Mid atlantic
6.9
I take all precautions I can, don't have much of a problem when a spring is in the tool while still in the car, and I can have a strut, suspension or car body part between the spring and myself. I am extra careful when spring is out and tool is being used to uncompress or compress the spring. Usually hold the spring in a large vise with a deep throat that "cups" the spring while still allowing it to move. At least if something lets go its blocked from taking my nose off on its way through the wall.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
I own a set and have used it several times with no issue. But, when you are working with things with stored energy like compressed spring, you need to take all the necessary precautions. And always be prepared and know where to position your self in case something slips or breaks.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Seattle WA
99 E320
i purchased this same unit back in 2005 and have used it over a dozen times. it appears to
be very well made, sturdy, and shows no signs of fatigue....this coming from someone who
is just a weekend mechanic, ie anecdotally. i always try to minimize handling of the spring
in compressed mode, and as soon as I have it in hand, i place it on the ground with the
ends pointed in 9 and 3 o'clock orientation. i release the spring tension as quickly as
possible and the springs never stay compressed more than 5 mins when they are off the
vehicle.
i opted to purchase as I knew going into my project that I would be pickey with the tire/
fender gap, and that it would be a trial/error project spanning months. in the end, i was
satisfied with the purchase of the clone spring compressor.
oh, btw, i recognize the seller of the spring compressor posted by the OP. I live nearby
and have purchased MB and non MB tools from him in the past. he works for MB. good
guy.
be very well made, sturdy, and shows no signs of fatigue....this coming from someone who
is just a weekend mechanic, ie anecdotally. i always try to minimize handling of the spring
in compressed mode, and as soon as I have it in hand, i place it on the ground with the
ends pointed in 9 and 3 o'clock orientation. i release the spring tension as quickly as
possible and the springs never stay compressed more than 5 mins when they are off the
vehicle.
i opted to purchase as I knew going into my project that I would be pickey with the tire/
fender gap, and that it would be a trial/error project spanning months. in the end, i was
satisfied with the purchase of the clone spring compressor.
oh, btw, i recognize the seller of the spring compressor posted by the OP. I live nearby
and have purchased MB and non MB tools from him in the past. he works for MB. good
guy.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Great info Raymond
Thanks a bunch for all the input. I am putting in the order today.
Thanks a bunch for all the input. I am putting in the order today.
i purchased this same unit back in 2005 and have used it over a dozen times. it appears to
be very well made, sturdy, and shows no signs of fatigue....this coming from someone who
is just a weekend mechanic, ie anecdotally. i always try to minimize handling of the spring
in compressed mode, and as soon as I have it in hand, i place it on the ground with the
ends pointed in 9 and 3 o'clock orientation. i release the spring tension as quickly as
possible and the springs never stay compressed more than 5 mins when they are off the
vehicle.
i opted to purchase as I knew going into my project that I would be pickey with the tire/
fender gap, and that it would be a trial/error project spanning months. in the end, i was
satisfied with the purchase of the clone spring compressor.
oh, btw, i recognize the seller of the spring compressor posted by the OP. I live nearby
and have purchased MB and non MB tools from him in the past. he works for MB. good
guy.
be very well made, sturdy, and shows no signs of fatigue....this coming from someone who
is just a weekend mechanic, ie anecdotally. i always try to minimize handling of the spring
in compressed mode, and as soon as I have it in hand, i place it on the ground with the
ends pointed in 9 and 3 o'clock orientation. i release the spring tension as quickly as
possible and the springs never stay compressed more than 5 mins when they are off the
vehicle.
i opted to purchase as I knew going into my project that I would be pickey with the tire/
fender gap, and that it would be a trial/error project spanning months. in the end, i was
satisfied with the purchase of the clone spring compressor.
oh, btw, i recognize the seller of the spring compressor posted by the OP. I live nearby
and have purchased MB and non MB tools from him in the past. he works for MB. good
guy.
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E
Anything that can kill me or others due to my own error either during the install or after I simply will not touch. Makes my life expensive, but I won't mess with brakes/suspension components on my own.
This would be such a situation... However, I really would like the ability to try out the H&R Sports on my car without an install fee
This would be such a situation... However, I really would like the ability to try out the H&R Sports on my car without an install fee
If anything, doing the process yourself should feel more comforting...who knows the guy at the shop was having a bad day and decided he didn't want to go find the torque setting for your caliper mounting bolts
I'm sure this happens a lot more than you'd like to know...
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,942
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From: Seattle WA
99 E320
respectful caution is always good. what I didn't write was that the first time
i used the klann clone, i wore large face shield (woodworking design),
mechanics gloves, and once the compressed spring was on the ground, I
place a large sheet of backpacker's foam over it to help (somewhat) control
flying metal bits should it explode.
by the time I got to spring compression #5 or 6, i was more skilled, and
especially, in working swiftly and smoothly to where I didn't use the foam.
but I continued to wear eye and gloves.
i used the klann clone, i wore large face shield (woodworking design),
mechanics gloves, and once the compressed spring was on the ground, I
place a large sheet of backpacker's foam over it to help (somewhat) control
flying metal bits should it explode.
by the time I got to spring compression #5 or 6, i was more skilled, and
especially, in working swiftly and smoothly to where I didn't use the foam.
but I continued to wear eye and gloves.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,849
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From: Long Beach, Ca
lots of cars
I one one as well and have used it twice without issue. I actually just got it back from ynvdizw124, whom I rented it to over the past week. Worked well for him too.
2. wear gloves
3. take your time
4. you're not going to die
5. watch for the placement of the plates when installing the new springs.
6. keep things clean and organized.
* I always use jack stands when working on my car and a tire under the car . I was working on a mustang and the jack failed and the car almost fell on me.
I've rented and used this same compressor about 5 times. Last time it took me 15 min to remove the springs on each side and 15 min to put them back on. You'll spend most of the time trying to remove the spring pads. Wear gloves anytime you mess around with the suspension because you don't want bloody knuckles or fingers.
When removing the springs put the plates close to the top and bottom and put a little bit of tension on the compressor and readjust the plates. Put a jack under the LCA and lift it to compress the spring. Finish compressing the spring and remove the jack. This way you don't have to do a lot of wrenching.
When you put the new spring watch for the top plate. You don't want to put it too far towards the top because when you install it and uncompress the spring it's going to get stuck on top. Install the new springs with the spring pad on it. It's going to be harder if the pad is on the perch. Have someone push down on the brake caliper so you can have more clearance to install the spring.
That's about it. You should be able to figure out anything i left out.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
Likes: 1
From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
Thanks for the tips. I am actually replacing the Control arm and ball joint so that will be most of my fun is getting that thing loose.
1. it's a good quality compressor.
2. wear gloves
3. take your time
4. you're not going to die
5. watch for the placement of the plates when installing the new springs.
6. keep things clean and organized.
* I always use jack stands when working on my car and a tire under the car . I was working on a mustang and the jack failed and the car almost fell on me.
I've rented and used this same compressor about 5 times. Last time it took me 15 min to remove the springs on each side and 15 min to put them back on. You'll spend most of the time trying to remove the spring pads. Wear gloves anytime you mess around with the suspension because you don't want bloody knuckles or fingers.
When removing the springs put the plates close to the top and bottom and put a little bit of tension on the compressor and readjust the plates. Put a jack under the LCA and lift it to compress the spring. Finish compressing the spring and remove the jack. This way you don't have to do a lot of wrenching.
When you put the new spring watch for the top plate. You don't want to put it too far towards the top because when you install it and uncompress the spring it's going to get stuck on top. Install the new springs with the spring pad on it. It's going to be harder if the pad is on the perch. Have someone push down on the brake caliper so you can have more clearance to install the spring.
That's about it. You should be able to figure out anything i left out.
2. wear gloves
3. take your time
4. you're not going to die
5. watch for the placement of the plates when installing the new springs.
6. keep things clean and organized.
* I always use jack stands when working on my car and a tire under the car . I was working on a mustang and the jack failed and the car almost fell on me.
I've rented and used this same compressor about 5 times. Last time it took me 15 min to remove the springs on each side and 15 min to put them back on. You'll spend most of the time trying to remove the spring pads. Wear gloves anytime you mess around with the suspension because you don't want bloody knuckles or fingers.
When removing the springs put the plates close to the top and bottom and put a little bit of tension on the compressor and readjust the plates. Put a jack under the LCA and lift it to compress the spring. Finish compressing the spring and remove the jack. This way you don't have to do a lot of wrenching.
When you put the new spring watch for the top plate. You don't want to put it too far towards the top because when you install it and uncompress the spring it's going to get stuck on top. Install the new springs with the spring pad on it. It's going to be harder if the pad is on the perch. Have someone push down on the brake caliper so you can have more clearance to install the spring.
That's about it. You should be able to figure out anything i left out.
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Do you need to remove the strut bolt on the tower? I compressed 8 coils and the spring did not seem to compress enough to come out....
Any ideas what I am doing wrong here because I read you do not need to?
Any ideas what I am doing wrong here because I read you do not need to?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,942
Likes: 178
From: Seattle WA
99 E320
when i was elbow deep into the front end of my E320, and start of Super
Bowl approaching, i was getting frantic...and annoyed. I encountered
similar, ie I couldn't compress the spring enough to remove.
note the pic, about halfway down, in which I was able to get a bit more
clearance by removing the lower link in the sway bar, and putting a little
downward pressure....while tipping and removing the spring. can this
technique be applied to your situation?
yes, i did remove the nut off the top of the shock as well
Bowl approaching, i was getting frantic...and annoyed. I encountered
similar, ie I couldn't compress the spring enough to remove.
note the pic, about halfway down, in which I was able to get a bit more
clearance by removing the lower link in the sway bar, and putting a little
downward pressure....while tipping and removing the spring. can this
technique be applied to your situation?
yes, i did remove the nut off the top of the shock as well
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 844
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From: Orland Park, Illinois
1994 E320 (current)
I think I got about 8 or maybe 9 coils as well. The first time I didn't have enough so I just rotated them as far as I could to the ends of the spring without them getting wedged and went from there.
