'94 E320 Cabriolet, ready for summer!
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
'94 E320 Cabriolet, ready for summer!
Price was reduced because the top doesn't work. Hopefully fixing the cylinders will be all it needs but am very excited as I've always loved the Cab. Will check the codes tomorrow and do a more thorough inspection...
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
thanks guys, I'm sure I'll need help as it's my first experience with the late M104. Built a code tester per Arthur Dalton's instructions.
Got the codes:
5 - Exhaust gas recirculation faulty - just passed smog so not sure if I need to do anything
26 - Upshift delay faulty - shifts smoothly
Pin 8
1 - no fault found
Pin 14
2 - EA/CC/ISC control module or Safety contact switch or, or... This error could be many things
5 - Stop lamp switch - stop lights work, haven't checked the 3rd light
11 - Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module.. I've noticed a hum noise in the intake area with the key on engine off while getting codes
Haven't looked at the harness for cracks yet. I can hear the vacuum pump (probably a leak) at the right rear that continues for a about 20 seconds.
Got the codes:
5 - Exhaust gas recirculation faulty - just passed smog so not sure if I need to do anything
26 - Upshift delay faulty - shifts smoothly
Pin 8
1 - no fault found
Pin 14
2 - EA/CC/ISC control module or Safety contact switch or, or... This error could be many things
5 - Stop lamp switch - stop lights work, haven't checked the 3rd light
11 - Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module.. I've noticed a hum noise in the intake area with the key on engine off while getting codes
Haven't looked at the harness for cracks yet. I can hear the vacuum pump (probably a leak) at the right rear that continues for a about 20 seconds.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Felix
Check the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir before you get into the mechanics of the top.
Good luck..the A124 is a gret ride !!!
Ed A.
Check the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir before you get into the mechanics of the top.
Good luck..the A124 is a gret ride !!!
Ed A.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
If it's under the right rear panel I can't get the rear seat backrest out to remove it. In the sedan there's are screws at the bottom but I don't see any in the cab. I guess the engineers didn't want you to easily get to this reservoir...
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 179
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From: New Zealand
1996 E320 Sportline Cabriolet x 2
It's in the trunk, for RHD cars at least it is on the left side, and not accessed by removing the rear seat back rest. But, if you wanted too, drop the arm rest and push to one side the leather trim behind the arm rest at the top and there is a screw each side of the arm rest hole to remove, then pull the seat squab straight up.
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From: Madrid
E 220 Coupe E 320 Cabrio AMG E 300 Diesel
Congratulation for the new cab! it's a cool colour/interior combination
P.d. for LHD cars the hydralic tank for the soft top is in the right side in the trunk
P.d. for LHD cars the hydralic tank for the soft top is in the right side in the trunk
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,246
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From: North NJ
94 Wagon and 94 Cabriolet
You can operate that top manually for a season if you could garage it and limit up-down. 
Congrats, my Cab remains my personal favorite car I have owned.
Even running work errands, I feel like I am cheating because I enjoy it so much.
Congrats, my Cab remains my personal favorite car I have owned.
Even running work errands, I feel like I am cheating because I enjoy it so much.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,494
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Felix
It's in the trunk.
Only tool needed is a phillips screw driver.
First remove the trunk rear interior panel ( trim panel that faces the passenger compartment ), it's secured by about 5-6 push pins.
Then remove the trunk right side trim panel, again held in by push pins.
You'll see the hydraulic unit ( pump/reservoir)
There is a sheetmetal shield over the unit that is fastened with some screws.
Take it of and you have access to fill the reservoir.
Possibly that your level is below the "min" mark.
Top it off with the correct fluid ( Febi 000-989-9103 hydraulic suspension fluid. About $7.50 per liter )
My cab only has 45K "one old lady in Boca" miles and the top started acting strange and eventually stopped working.
Never had any leaks, but when I checked the fluid level it was below the "min" mark.
My guess is that the fluid level got to that point over many years and was never checked.
Filled it, the top worked perfectly but I had leaks from the top cylinders.
Before tearing the car apart, I refilled and cycled the top for a few weeks.
No more leaks and no loss of fluid.
Guessing that the seals hadn't deteriorated but had dried a bit.
Once they "swelled" everything was fine.
Start with the fluid level and let us know if that was the problem.
Ed A.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,494
Likes: 17
From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Felix
It's in the trunk.
Only tool needed is a phillips screw driver.
First remove the trunk rear interior panel ( trim panel that faces the passenger compartment ), it's secured by about 5-6 push pins.
Then remove the trunk right side trim panel, again held in by push pins.
You'll see the hydraulic unit ( pump/reservoir)
There is a sheetmetal shield over the unit that is fastened with some screws.
Take it of and you have access to fill the reservoir.
Possibly that your level is below the "min" mark.
Top it off with the correct fluid ( Febi 000-989-9103 hydraulic suspension fluid. About $7.50 per liter )
My cab only has 45K "one old lady in Boca" miles and the top started acting strange and eventually stopped working.
Never had any leaks, but when I checked the fluid level it was below the "min" mark.
My guess is that the fluid level got to that point over many years and was never checked.
Filled it, the top worked perfectly but I had leaks from the top cylinders.
Before tearing the car apart, I refilled and cycled the top for a few weeks.
No more leaks and no loss of fluid.
Guessing that the seals hadn't deteriorated but had dried a bit.
Once they "swelled" everything was fine.
Start with the fluid level and let us know if that was the problem.
Ed A.
It's in the trunk.
Only tool needed is a phillips screw driver.
First remove the trunk rear interior panel ( trim panel that faces the passenger compartment ), it's secured by about 5-6 push pins.
Then remove the trunk right side trim panel, again held in by push pins.
You'll see the hydraulic unit ( pump/reservoir)
There is a sheetmetal shield over the unit that is fastened with some screws.
Take it of and you have access to fill the reservoir.
Possibly that your level is below the "min" mark.
Top it off with the correct fluid ( Febi 000-989-9103 hydraulic suspension fluid. About $7.50 per liter )
My cab only has 45K "one old lady in Boca" miles and the top started acting strange and eventually stopped working.
Never had any leaks, but when I checked the fluid level it was below the "min" mark.
My guess is that the fluid level got to that point over many years and was never checked.
Filled it, the top worked perfectly but I had leaks from the top cylinders.
Before tearing the car apart, I refilled and cycled the top for a few weeks.
No more leaks and no loss of fluid.
Guessing that the seals hadn't deteriorated but had dried a bit.
Once they "swelled" everything was fine.
Start with the fluid level and let us know if that was the problem.
Ed A.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
My wife will likely want me to sell my coupe and her sedan in order to keep this car. I think we'll be convinced once the top works...
Edit: I read it's a wrench that opens the rear cover.
Last edited by pifcat2; Jul 2, 2010 at 03:23 PM. Reason: got the manual pages apart
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 3
From: North NJ
94 Wagon and 94 Cabriolet
I've read this on these boards from posting sources I had confidence in. Either here, benzw or peaches. I will try a few searches and see if I find. It was my "back up plan" should I ever go broke at the same time as my top fails.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 71
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From: Honolulu, Hawaii
1995 E320 Cab; 2007 E350 Sport
Ironically, half my supplemental book pages are bonded together from getting wet. How do you operate it manually? I'm not sure I have the special tool. My tool pouch has the threaded bar I believe is for hard top sun roofs. Is this also used for the top?
My wife will likely want me to sell my coupe and her sedan in order to keep this car. I think we'll be convinced once the top works...
Edit: I read it's a wrench that opens the rear cover.
My wife will likely want me to sell my coupe and her sedan in order to keep this car. I think we'll be convinced once the top works...
Edit: I read it's a wrench that opens the rear cover.
Many of us contributed to the DIY on benzworld, troubleshooting a top can be very frustrating because if one switch is slightly off, it won't cycle.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
It's a very thin open wrench that fits behind the rear seat backrest, I forget the size. If you don't have it others have said they have ground down an open wrench to use.
Many of us contributed to the DIY on benzworld, troubleshooting a top can be very frustrating because if one switch is slightly off, it won't cycle.
Many of us contributed to the DIY on benzworld, troubleshooting a top can be very frustrating because if one switch is slightly off, it won't cycle.
My fluid is within the min/max but is dark. What is this unused connector and hacked up wiring? Wiring is hacked under the front passenger foot area too, my guess is it was for a phone.
Last edited by pifcat2; Jul 4, 2010 at 02:28 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 169
Likes: 2
300TE, 300CE
analog pnone and hydro fruid
It's an analog phone unit, which became obsolete when all carriers switched to digital. The cable w/o the plus does not look like MB colored wires to me. It looks like the yellow wire goes from that and is patched into the MB phone harness. I agree with your guess the someone installed a digital unit in the car with receiver in trunk and phone on the passenger side of the console, and the yellow wire triggers the antenna or powers on that unit when the ignition is on. Just a guess.
Hydraulic fluid absorbs some moisture (the system is open to air, that gold mesh looking thing on the reservoir) which turns the fluid dark green-blue. MB never listed a rec for changing that fluid, and so most don't, not even a dealer.
I rec you suck out that reservoir, refill with new fluid, cycle the top up/down 5 or so times. Then suck that out and refill with new.
Thread Starter
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
That is the plug for the receiver unit for the MB phone. If you have a module under the interior rear view mirror with buttons like "send", M1, M2, "end", this is the hands free part of the system. Phone body in center armrest.
It's an analog phone unit, which became obsolete when all carriers switched to digital. The cable w/o the plus does not look like MB colored wires to me. It looks like the yellow wire goes from that and is patched into the MB phone harness. I agree with your guess the someone installed a digital unit in the car with receiver in trunk and phone on the passenger side of the console, and the yellow wire triggers the antenna or powers on that unit when the ignition is on. Just a guess.
Hydraulic fluid absorbs some moisture (the system is open to air, that gold mesh looking thing on the reservoir) which turns the fluid dark green-blue. MB never listed a rec for changing that fluid, and so most don't, not even a dealer.
I rec you suck out that reservoir, refill with new fluid, cycle the top up/down 5 or so times. Then suck that out and refill with new.
It's an analog phone unit, which became obsolete when all carriers switched to digital. The cable w/o the plus does not look like MB colored wires to me. It looks like the yellow wire goes from that and is patched into the MB phone harness. I agree with your guess the someone installed a digital unit in the car with receiver in trunk and phone on the passenger side of the console, and the yellow wire triggers the antenna or powers on that unit when the ignition is on. Just a guess.
Hydraulic fluid absorbs some moisture (the system is open to air, that gold mesh looking thing on the reservoir) which turns the fluid dark green-blue. MB never listed a rec for changing that fluid, and so most don't, not even a dealer.
I rec you suck out that reservoir, refill with new fluid, cycle the top up/down 5 or so times. Then suck that out and refill with new.
we need a new one anyway!
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Heat is constant unless clicked to Cold /AC
From what I've read, my duo valve bypass causes this in fail mode. The AC must be good to overcome the heat! It costs at least $250 for a new valve but found instructions to rebuild: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...light=duovalve It looks dicey if it doesn't seal but cheap enough to attempt. I'll find a used valve to have a spare...
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Heat remains with replaced Duo Valve
From what I've read, my duo valve bypass causes this in fail mode. The AC must be good to overcome the heat! It costs at least $250 for a new valve but found instructions to rebuild: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...light=duovalve It looks dicey if it doesn't seal but cheap enough to attempt. I'll find a used valve to have a spare...
I flushed the radiator and overflow reservoir and now I have a new symptom, a pulsing squeal sound like a fast loud cricket at idle. 
It seems to diminish at higher revs but it may just be the engine rev sound is higher. I thought it could be the belt getting wet when I pulled the radiator hose but the sound remains hours later. I really need to get a mechanic's stethoscope! I measured the connector voltage:
key on - cc knob to max heat: 11.77
key on - cc knob to max cold: 0.71
key / engine on - cc knob to max heat: 13.50
key / engine on - cc knob to max cold: 0.78
Resistance on the duo valve: 0.01
any suggestions?
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Some good news!
After removing the battery so I could replace the duovalve, I found the harness tag that indicates it's the replacement new version: A 124 440 56 32
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Still can't get the backrest out!
It's in the trunk, for RHD cars at least it is on the left side, and not accessed by removing the rear seat back rest. But, if you wanted too, drop the arm rest and push to one side the leather trim behind the arm rest at the top and there is a screw each side of the arm rest hole to remove, then pull the seat squab straight up.
I'm trying to get to the back headrest / roll bar switches so I can lower it...
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 977
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From: San Jose
300TE / 300E / 300CE
Missing wiring on right side fuse?
This is the dual fuse block above the duovalve. What does it fuse? Where does this terminal wire originate? It's wired on the other side but can't find a loose wire for this connection...
