pifcat2

Still a mystery but I saw one of Kesta's post pics with the same missing terminal, apparently it for an possible option.

vexed

At least one or not both are supplemental fuses for the cab. If you have the supplemental owners manual for the cab it's in there. If you don't have it I can scan the page later.

pifcat2

I saw that but it didn't identify them. thanks

pifcat2

I noticed a loose connector under the rear seat and posted a pic on Peach parts. It was suggested I was missing the top controller. After getting a dealer price for over $2k, I started to look for used. When I found one, the seller said there was a 35 pin plug and two 12 pin plugs, I only had one loose 12 pin. I rechecked under the seat and had the controller all along! The 12 pin plugged into the side obscured by the pneumatic pump foam and the top "almost" worked the full cycle. The rear headrests and windows retracted, the rear cover opened and the top began to lift to fold back but stopped. It looked like something is not connected but I need to check more closely when I have time.

I've read the humming noise under intake manifold is normal

pifcat2

At least for now, not sure what the problem was before.

I notice when I opened the door the presenter would move out and in for a 1/2" so I checked the pin switch at the door jamb/hinge and it would fully extend when I pressed it but not when the door was closed. It's not adjustable so I put some foam tape on the door side of the switch and now it works consistently.

After I removed all the visible screws, I still don't know how to remove the rear interior side panel at the window. It probably has some hidden clips but since the presenter works I didn't need to remove it.

I got the rear seat installed, the only PITA was getting the seat belt receiver cover back together. It easily slides and snaps together but when on the mechanism, there are features that don't let you press the 2 pieces together to hook them at the bottom. Sometimes one side would fit but not the other. I eventually pressed and pushed them together and wonder how they do it at the factory.

pifcat2

Loving the open top! Drove it to Santa Cruz on a curvy hwy 17 road.

Replaced the top hydraulic fluid. Pretty easy with a Turkey baster. Reinstalled the carpet like covers and noticed the one next to the reservoir covers something that's not there. Also has a mystery elastic strap...

Just ordered some broken and missing plastic bezels for the top latch and sunvisor hinges, ouch! Also ordered a valet key, didn't know you can still get them and the parts guy said they are rarely ordered.

Checked with a DentPro guy to remove some dings. With my luck, I'll probably get new dings as soon as the old are removed. I considered buying the tools but those guys are like magicians. Anyone use them?

My air deflector mounts don't seem to spring tight, is there something missing here?

WDB124066

There is nothing missing but that thin metal piece should be straighter. Also make sure your wind deflector is sitting down hard on the plastic trim, then the toggles should snap into place. Sometimes they almost snap in if the distance between the anchor and the pivot point to just a smidgen too long, I suspect this is what you are experiencing. It is not really a problem though.

Yes the dent guys are fantastic if you get a good one. Be very careful they don't push the dent out too far, otherwise you will polish off the paint in such areas.

Get yourself some “drop in” Rainbow speakers for the dash. Then all will be perfect.


They are great cars, and a joy to drive when all is going well. That's why I have two, one to replace the other when it eventually wears out..........

pifcat2

After checking the dipstick, the oil was low and the warning light didn't light. I unplugged it and it came on. I topped off the oil and plugged the connector. It seemed to work when the light went off but then it came on and stays on. I suspect it's the wiring because of deteriorating insulation from what I've read. I can see some exposed wire at the connector and I doubt the lower harness was replaced. It could be a bad sender as I tried to check continuity (center pin to ground) and there's none.

pifcat2

One of my latch plastic surrounds was broken so I purchased a new piece at the dealer. It did not have the spring loaded catch to hold the end of the latch handle and the parts guy noticed it had been returned several times. After I installed it, the handle would hang and the "somethings wrong" sensor would ring. The dealer parts guy said it was superceded and I'd have to purchase the '95 handle which apparently didn't need this catch. Just to be sure he ordered another one and it was identical. I don't see how the later handle would make a difference and I'd like the original style to match the right side. I decided to take the pricey part and modify it to fit the original spring catch. Essentially I have to drill a hole, file it square, and transfer the spring detent. All the molded structure is there, just no hole and parts.

pifcat2

found these interesting threads:
Oil Level Lamp is lit, but level is OK

oil-light-when-turning-left

pifcat2

Oil level light constantly on: I replaced the level sender and it turned off.

No Start Problem: I went through some tests I found searching the PP Tech site eliminating the 5v fuse and K38 relay. After bypassing the NSS, it worked so I replaced it. All was good or so I thought.

Wiring Insulation Problem: I didn't realize the insulation on the 3-wire harness from brake booster fire wall to the starter, oil sender, and pressure switch had flaked off even though they all worked. I replaced it and wrapped a thermo-tech sleeve at the area next to the engine and starter for insurance. That was quite a job with little room to work. BTW,I really like knowing where to jump start the car in case of emergencies (providing the starter is ok)

Disconnected upshift delay actuator vacuum line: I found it hanging while underneath the car. I traced it to the solenoid near the fuse box. According to the two vacuum diagrams I've seen, it appears to be on the right side of the transmission. I can barely fit a few fingers between it and the tunnel. I can't see where it connects, does anyone have a pic of it outside the car?

My next project is to replace a broken wire in the soft top. I'm not sure where the other end connects but the bottom spring end is visible at the bottom of the rear glass.