loclark757

In the Factory Service manual under 07.3-1692 Replacing the Electrohydraulic Actuator it says to torque the two screws 3.0 to 0.5 Nm

Ok its in newton meters no big deal. But what does 3.0 to 0.5 Nm mean exactly...

The screws on my EHA are probably way too tight!

liveoak

thanks man!! I don't know a lot bout MB but i"m learning. Today i put a used distributor and EHA on and it does the same thing so maybe its the computer or the EHA.

liveoak

3.5 N.m converts to 25 inch lbs. of tourque. the o rings do't need a lot of torque to make a seal . What can happen when over tightend the o rings will become flat and not seal very well.

124 forlife

try this link: http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tuning-cise.htm#k

124 forlife

Just screw it with filling.Germans allready taught about making a groove for rubber rings,so you cant destroy it.

124 forlife

did you take it from known well running engine???????

124 forlife

Starting with the 1987.5 Coupe GT (and 1987 5000) Audi went to a high compression, 2.3 liter engine using KE3 Jetronic fuel and ignition management. This is the first system that really does anything with the ignition system while the car is running - the ignition timing is fixed at 12 degrees btdc and is non-adjustable, and the electronics incorporate a knock sensor to retard the timing if detonation is present. This system is still very much like the KE system - with a minor change that is a nice improvement - the idle setting for the control pressure actuator is around 0 mA instead of 10 mA. This means that if the ECU is dead or disabled, and supplies no power to the system, the fuel settings will be close enough to right for the engine to run well enough to get you home so you can fix it. Same system same procedure according to year of manufacture.

liveoak

I want to thank every body for all your input to my starting issue for my 300sel. got it starting and runing without buying new parts . not really sure how one of the last things i did was fix the plug on my radio that was not making contact on the back. check a lot af wiring and the control module unplugd and plug it back in. OH i did take the distributor apart and put it back again and it is runing.
Also checked my gas pressure puts out 80 psi

loclark757

My updraft air flow sensor was 2mm off! Im going to get a digital multimeter this week so I can check the EHA hookup. I've been working on my problem for the past few months slowly going insane.

That's great news liveoak!

What does unplugging the control module do?

loclark757

Thats a great link you found 124 forlife!

liveoak

since my last post i been doing a lot of thinking about the things i did while tring to start my 300. Some was unnessasary but i did them so dont know if it had any affect on the fixing. I'm going to list some things I did maybe it will help someone. I'll try to keep them in order but its gona be difficult. when i started i thought it was the distributor but I now belive it was the EHA valve stuck from the ethanol being in the gas. wheni started it had no gas in the tank that was good didn't have to worry about stale gas. added gas and injector cleaner and the fuel pump had good pressure. so I pourd gas in the body where the flap is the car would start and run as long as i pourd gas in the carb body. Next time( the next week) I had to add more gas. Then I found the down line from fuel tank was leaking. Made that repair added more gas with some marvel mistery oil and started the car again with all injector lines off the distributor. checked for votage at the EHA valve and had 4 volts with car switched on tried to check amp draw with a amp clamp and was unable to get a reading. I also checked the volts while it was runing and got 8 volts also checked the coil in the EHA and got 24ohms. next i bought a used one with its own EHA from a 93 190 and it did the same. then I disassemabled mine being carful tring not to damage anything. found all o-rings in center ingood shape all small jets were open ( not clogged) did not turn any ajusting screws used vasaline on center o-rings a put it back together. took the bought one off car and put mine back and checked gas pressure (80) psi. started the car by pouring gas in body and keeping it running begainto tap the EHA with rubber mallet. then checked all my wiring for broken wires removed the control unit on pssenger side floor and reinstalled it. the next weekend i continued to start the car with gas poured in the carb body and tap on the EHA and i noticed gas coming from two of the outlets on the distributor after that it seemed that slowly each one begain to have gas coming from the outlets. I installed all the injector lines poured gas in the body the car started and continued to run. it starts rough but it starts and runs now wihout pouring the gas in the carb. Hope it continues this weekend i will be buying so more marvel mistery oil to put in the gas to keep the EHA and other moving parts lubercated. over look the spellin I can't spell and i'm evan a worse typer

liveoak

I not sure it did any thing to help i had some wiring that was in need of repair at that location and had unplugd it and put it back eralier and was uncertain about if it was plugd in good... can u tell me how u checked air flow senser maybe in detail

loclark757

The updraft air flow sensor: its that roller ball thing right under the fuel distributor

I got a depth gauge from Northern Tool and Equipment it only cost like 2 bucks

You measure from the top of the seat where the fuel distributor sits to the roller ball which is the top of the sensor.

It should be between 21.1mm and 21.3mm...You can adjust this distance by turning the mixture screw which is what you have already done.

loclark757

Testing EHA Valve with DMM

So im guessing an adapter is needed in order to test the current of the EHA!

Can this be made from radio shack?

Or do you just test the engine harness with the tester?

liveoak

the amp reading are so low my meter would not read it.

124 forlife

Testing EHA you test for AMP flow which is diferent than Voltage reading.Voltage reading,you ad your tester leads to both of contacts you wont to read (which is called "paralel contact"), For AMP reading,you ad your tester leads "in line"(called "series contact"). For EHA reading we need AMP (series) reading.This is very important,since inproper meter adjustment and/or inproper connection will give you wrong measurement,and you will end in worryland. Series connection for EHA measurement should be: connect one harness side to EHA,while connecting your meter (preferable digital) between other harness side and EHA .This at least will give a picture how to connect it,so any parts you could find in Radio Shack that will work for you is OK.

124 forlife

check it out: http://w124-zone.com

liveoak

I tested mine with ditgital fluke amp clamp. but it will not test milliamps so i tested for OHMs on the EHA and volts on the wiring harnes. Idon't remember if I told ya 124 forlife but i have my 300 sel runing and starting good wthout have to replace any parts. I found out this week that the car has been sitting for about five years.

124 forlife

yea bud just read post #36 where you axplaining how you did it.That is a good news.I am glad we kept you company so you are not alone.Hey older and wiser guys of the forum say, that CIS system does not like to be left alone,especialy not for five years like yours was. Did you try "sea foam" for system cleaning. Very good staf and act fast.Nothing to lose. Im hapy for you .

124 forlife

Yea I have one of those for my ocupation. Those are made for industrial purposes. If you wont keep on car, I sugest you buying one with miliamps and posibily duty cycle(%) for mixture adjustment.Its not must since mixture can be measured with voltage and than convert with formula to cycle(%). How about some pictures of your car.

liveoak

I'll tri to get some good pics this weekend! how do ya getum on the site?

124 forlife

..honestly I never tried one of these. I would try today,so Iwill tell you how it goes.

loclark757

I have bad gas! Tested the fuel pump feed line to the fuel distributor and its only flowing about 15psi... Barely even coming out!

Im going to drain the fuel tank, add 8 gallons of gas, fuel stabilizer then jump the fuel pump relay and see if it works it out.

liveoak

hope that fixes the problem with the distributor. may need to check the filter gas being bad may not cause low pressure unless its real thick mabe like jelly. water will clog some filters. also could be the strainer in the tank.

loclark757

It worked but my battery died on the second time trying to start it. Its a brand new battery!

The gas tank was empty! I put 10 gallons in and some fuel stabilizer. The spark plugs were soaked after trying to start it.