Extremely erratic stalling
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 252
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Extremely erratic stalling
My car is almost back up to normal. It's lookin pretty nice at least 
.
Anyway, every so often after 2 mins of startup, the car will calmly stall at idle in "D" or sometimes even in Park or neutral.
I'll be sitting still afer pulling out of a parking lot and the car will just die. No fluttering or backfiring. It's almost as if someone else is turning the key off. After restarting it continues to die.
What I have been doing as a temporary fix:
After I pull off the road...
1.Turn of the car (assuming it didn't stall already)
2.Pull out the OVP relay
3.Start the car again (it doesn't stall with the OVP out)
4.Let it sit there idle for about 5 mins
5.Turn off the car
6.Put the OVP back in
7.Start up the car & it drives fine for the rest of the day
The OVP relay is new (less than thirty days), good fuse. My mechanic said something about a valve getting stuck shut or something like that but I had no idea what he was talking about. He wasn't sure about it either. Any good advice as to what I should have him check? He will have to get this fixed as I'll be heading off to college in Salt Lake City in a matter of weeks.
Thanks for all your help!
.Anyway, every so often after 2 mins of startup, the car will calmly stall at idle in "D" or sometimes even in Park or neutral.
I'll be sitting still afer pulling out of a parking lot and the car will just die. No fluttering or backfiring. It's almost as if someone else is turning the key off. After restarting it continues to die.
What I have been doing as a temporary fix:
After I pull off the road...
1.Turn of the car (assuming it didn't stall already)
2.Pull out the OVP relay
3.Start the car again (it doesn't stall with the OVP out)
4.Let it sit there idle for about 5 mins
5.Turn off the car
6.Put the OVP back in
7.Start up the car & it drives fine for the rest of the day
The OVP relay is new (less than thirty days), good fuse. My mechanic said something about a valve getting stuck shut or something like that but I had no idea what he was talking about. He wasn't sure about it either. Any good advice as to what I should have him check? He will have to get this fixed as I'll be heading off to college in Salt Lake City in a matter of weeks.
Thanks for all your help!
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Madrid SPAIN
w124 260E year 1987
I had a similar problem with my 260E -year 1987-.
The problem was a cold solder at the circuit board of the fuel pump rele, it is located very closed to the OVP rele.
I open the plastic box, extract the circuit board and resolder cold solders near a little rele.
I know it is a common problem, when the fuel pump or pumps are hot they pass a high intensity throught the lines of the circuit board and sometimes they don´t do a good contact between the pins of the components and the lines.
Sorry for the quality of my english, I am spanish and my english is not fluent, if you need more help about this, please contact me.
Woody
The problem was a cold solder at the circuit board of the fuel pump rele, it is located very closed to the OVP rele.
I open the plastic box, extract the circuit board and resolder cold solders near a little rele.
I know it is a common problem, when the fuel pump or pumps are hot they pass a high intensity throught the lines of the circuit board and sometimes they don´t do a good contact between the pins of the components and the lines.
Sorry for the quality of my english, I am spanish and my english is not fluent, if you need more help about this, please contact me.
Woody
