E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Question on differential bushing replacement in 300CE

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Old 12-13-2010, 02:05 PM
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Question on differential bushing replacement in 300CE

The differential bushings are cracked in my 1990 300CE and starts to have a loud knocking noise. I have the new bushings and also the tool to remove them.
I had done few years back in 1989 300TE wagon.
Support the differential with a jack and wood.
The way i remember was to disconnect the rear flex disk, remove it, slide back the universal shaft forward.
Remove the bolts of the CV joint on both sides of the differential. Detach the CV joint from the differential . Support the axles on both sides.
Remove any sensors on the differential.
Undo the bolts on the bushings and then lower the differential.
Remove the bushings and then install the bushings with same orientation.
Is this correct? As this is what I recollect.
Please let me know if I have missed anything that is critical.
Thanks a bunch
Old 12-13-2010, 02:25 PM
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300D, 500E, E420
Loosen the driveshaft center support bolts to allow the driveshaft to move forward, and don't forget to tighten these bolts afterwards. Otherwise you pretty much have everything else correct. Remember the bushings come out towards the front of the car, not the rear.

Old 12-13-2010, 03:26 PM
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1987 560SL
Holy crap, Dave!!!!
You sure jump on these Differential posts, LOL
Old 12-13-2010, 04:09 PM
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Dave, thanks for the input.
I has have all the rear links on this car. The car has like 180K miles.
Should I be replacing those as well?
Old 12-13-2010, 06:15 PM
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300D, 500E, E420
Originally Posted by 190E 16V
Holy crap, Dave!!!!
You sure jump on these Differential posts, LOL
Heh-heh... sheer accident, I just stumbled across the post...



I has have all the rear links on this car. The car has like 180K miles.
Should I be replacing those as well?
That depends if you have the time and $$$ to mess with it. If you want to replace everything, it's easier to pull the entire subframe, and replace all 5 links on each side, replace all 4 main bushings between subframe and body, diff mounts (front & rear), rear wheel carrier support joints, and anything else easy to access with the subframe out (i.e., fuel tank hoses). This gets expensive fast - around $1k in parts - and takes a while to all the work. I think most cars are due for this treatment by 200k, 250k tops. I did this on my '87, pics are here. Some special tools are required, or at least recommended, depending on the bushing in question.

With limited time & funds, I'd inspect all the links, and replace (in pairs) any that have definitely worn rubber bushings.


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