KE Jetronic Diagnosis
#26
Hi all
Thanks Megawatt for your time posting. I have a W201 2.6, similar system to the 300 E class.
I have performed and follow all your recommendations but I still have problems on starting my ".6 when cold or when hot after about 10 minutes, takes some crancking to do so.
I have replaced fuel filter, temp sensors, etc...checked fuel pump and have followed the measurements on everything. This is what I found out so far.
- When testing the 3 pin socket on the potenciometer I get 5 volts between pins 1 and 3, but I don´t get voltage when measuring top and middle one, just middle and botton one, voltage decreases when moving airflow meter. Also measuring voltage just on the conector I get this 5 volts between pins 1 and 3.
- When turning ignition ON I hear a click on the aux air valve after aprox 7 seconds, it´s that ok?
Thanks a lot for your help.
Thanks Megawatt for your time posting. I have a W201 2.6, similar system to the 300 E class.
I have performed and follow all your recommendations but I still have problems on starting my ".6 when cold or when hot after about 10 minutes, takes some crancking to do so.
I have replaced fuel filter, temp sensors, etc...checked fuel pump and have followed the measurements on everything. This is what I found out so far.
- When testing the 3 pin socket on the potenciometer I get 5 volts between pins 1 and 3, but I don´t get voltage when measuring top and middle one, just middle and botton one, voltage decreases when moving airflow meter. Also measuring voltage just on the conector I get this 5 volts between pins 1 and 3.
- When turning ignition ON I hear a click on the aux air valve after aprox 7 seconds, it´s that ok?
Thanks a lot for your help.
#27
Megawatt Man
I also have a 1988 300CE. I want to have my diagnostic codes checked by a competent mechanic to trace an annoying stalling problem - OVP, Fuel Pump Relay and Temp Sensor all replaced. Do you know someone in Melbourne, SE Suburbs?
Are you able to run any checks for me or recommend someone who can? Thanks, David
Are you able to run any checks for me or recommend someone who can? Thanks, David
#28
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 2
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Recently purchased for $300 and pman onentering s;!tbox rally across Australia. the car an 1987 230E
EHA
Hi there, my EHA is leaking fuel, ive replaced the orings but still leaks, i just checked the ohms and they were 19.8 ohms but i did noticed the electrical plug has a 1 and 2 on it, the EHA slso has 1&2 on it but 1 plugs into 2 not 1 into 1. Is this right? Should the earth wire plug into the 1 or the 2?
also if i make a gasket for the EHA is that ok or do the small holes in the sides of the EHA need to breathe?
Any help would be great as im getting car ready for ****box rally and need to keep costs to a minimum.
cheers
hoffy
also if i make a gasket for the EHA is that ok or do the small holes in the sides of the EHA need to breathe?
Any help would be great as im getting car ready for ****box rally and need to keep costs to a minimum.
cheers
hoffy
#29
Hi there, my EHA is leaking fuel, ive replaced the orings but still leaks, i just checked the ohms and they were 19.8 ohms but i did noticed the electrical plug has a 1 and 2 on it, the EHA slso has 1&2 on it but 1 plugs into 2 not 1 into 1. Is this right? Should the earth wire plug into the 1 or the 2?
also if i make a gasket for the EHA is that ok or do the small holes in the sides of the EHA need to breathe?
Any help would be great as im getting car ready for ****box rally and need to keep costs to a minimum.
cheers
hoffy
also if i make a gasket for the EHA is that ok or do the small holes in the sides of the EHA need to breathe?
Any help would be great as im getting car ready for ****box rally and need to keep costs to a minimum.
cheers
hoffy
#30
Hi Throttle valve switch is not the grey micro switch
Hi I have a 1992 mercedes 190e 2.6 W201 inline 6 I have a problem whit start cranking but not firing have spark timing check good OVP good fuel pump 80PSI jet tronic 70PSI car keep cranking no cigar any one help please
The throttle switch is under the air flow miter beside the throttle real bad spot to take it out and is black rectangular 2 screws phillips
The throttle switch is under the air flow miter beside the throttle real bad spot to take it out and is black rectangular 2 screws phillips
Last edited by daniel62; 09-13-2018 at 03:10 PM. Reason: spelling wrong
#31
Newbie
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Hungary, Budapest.
Posts: 4
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W124 E200
Dear Brand Partners!
Has anyone encountered the following error phenomenon, and if so, what was the solution.
W124 E200 1990. M102.963
It starts normally after a cold job of several weeks.
Operation starts warm within 10 minutes of starting.
Operation does NOT start warm after 30 minutes, puffs two, stops. From now on, starting is not possible. (as if there is no ignition) Prolonged grinding, - occasionally - floor gas, torturous puffs, then difficult to start.
As for the replacement, set:
- ECU replaced.
- Fuel pump relay checked.
- Overvoltage relay checked.
- The two thermal resistors are fine. (20C - 2.2 Kohm 80C - 350 Ohm)
- EFF okay. (operating pressure 5.6 Kg / cm3 lower chamber 5.2 Kg / cm3) control current.
- Air mass resistance is good. Not worn. 800 rpm around 0.7 V.
- Fuel distributor replaced.
- Upper pressure limiter replaced.
- Idle mixing screw set. (best CO, most even idle)
- Starter electric injector is working properly.
- Idle engine clean, no need, good control.
It would be a great help if anyone still had an idea and I would thank you very much.
Hi:
Gyula.
Has anyone encountered the following error phenomenon, and if so, what was the solution.
W124 E200 1990. M102.963
It starts normally after a cold job of several weeks.
Operation starts warm within 10 minutes of starting.
Operation does NOT start warm after 30 minutes, puffs two, stops. From now on, starting is not possible. (as if there is no ignition) Prolonged grinding, - occasionally - floor gas, torturous puffs, then difficult to start.
As for the replacement, set:
- ECU replaced.
- Fuel pump relay checked.
- Overvoltage relay checked.
- The two thermal resistors are fine. (20C - 2.2 Kohm 80C - 350 Ohm)
- EFF okay. (operating pressure 5.6 Kg / cm3 lower chamber 5.2 Kg / cm3) control current.
- Air mass resistance is good. Not worn. 800 rpm around 0.7 V.
- Fuel distributor replaced.
- Upper pressure limiter replaced.
- Idle mixing screw set. (best CO, most even idle)
- Starter electric injector is working properly.
- Idle engine clean, no need, good control.
It would be a great help if anyone still had an idea and I would thank you very much.
Hi:
Gyula.