wredas

Hello.

It's a w124 250D. It has 2 speakers in the back (behind neckrests) and they work. And its 2 speakers in the dash to, and they dont work.
It doesent have the original stereo in it, its an aftermarket with ISO-Cablage.
I have looked up the color on the cables from the speakers in the dash and they are black and black/green, so are the other dash speaker and 1 speaker at the back.
I cant find so many black/green cables, only 1 (2 cables, + and -) and they are from the backspeaker.

What I think its causing problems is the "scroll" thing between the seats. I dont know but do anyone know what color the cables are from the dash speakers ? It seems like its different colors than it is from the speakers.

Sorry if you dont understand, tell me and i'll try to write better if you dont understand.

Thanks.

stormtigers

Welcome Wredas.
A little bit more info in your profile if you could - ie vehicle year maybe ?
Look I don't have a wiring diagram for the 250D but as a rule of thumb most of the 80's model MB's had 4 speaker system passing through a fader control in the console.
There is an excellent DIY article on removing a W124 Becker stereo and speakers which is worth reading as the author did a great job of photographing everything as he did it.


Regards your question on number of wires, the section I think relevant for you is
"...The center console fader switch is a device that will probably be bypassed on your installation . The early Becker Grand Prix was a 2X20watt
head unit that was split by the fader switch to drive 4 speakers from 2 channels of amplifier. Most aftermarket head units have 4 channels
of amplification and an integral fader, so the one in the center console should not be used in the new installation...."

wredas

Thanks! It's a -92. Im going to read the file when I get a program that can open it. I guess I need to take of the middle console?

stormtigers

Download Acrobat Reader mate - always handy to have and it's free.
http://get.adobe.com/uk/reader/

Yeah look I may not have been clear in what I was passing on to you.
As there was only 2 channels coming out of the head unit then you will probably find only two sets of cables - LEFT & RIGHT. These went to the fader control where it was divided out into 4 channels front/rear Left & Right.

What stereo headunit is in the car by the way ? I am assuming it is probably an original Becker Unit ? Do you have an operating manual for the stereo which might give you some more info on how it is configured ?

Not having the wiring diagram for your car makes it tricky BUT lifting the console could give you an insight as to what colors are coming in and out of the fader switch. Seeing you have a fader switch have you tried outputting with it turned all the way to the stops ? Still no front sound ?

Some models also came equipped with an amplifier as well. If an amplifier is fitted then the missing cables are likely being routed from the amplifier rather than the fader switch.

Probably try to get a bit more information on how your car is configured so we can provide more definitive help - I am just throwing ideas at you that may not be helpful if your car is configured differently,.

wredas

Thank you for your help! The headunit is an aftermarket LG with ISO-cablage, it was already in the car when I bought it. The speakers in the back worked but not the ones in the dash. It has a wiring diagram and I have tried to switch some cables but I cant get the front speakers working in any way.

For example I tried to take different set of cables in the rear channel, and it doesnt work but i does work with the back speakers. Sorry for my bad english I'm going to remove the middle part soon, if I need more help i'll write here

stormtigers

Okay sounds like it might have been an amateur installation.

Just a quick suggestion though the front speakers are quite easily accessed. They should have a small length of cable which connects them into the MB wiring schema and you should be able to unplug them from there and physically lift one or both out. Then try running a lead from your head unit's front channel directly to the speaker. If you get sound then it has isolated your problem.

From what you have told us so far I am thinking that it very much sounds like the installer has not been able to determine which leads are being used to supply sound to the front and therefore has left them disconnected.

If you can get sound out of the speaker by directly connecting it to the stereo my suggestion would be run some new cable from each side front speaker and bypass the MB wiring.

Most of what I am telling you is based on my experience with my 300CE which in the end was re-wired for me by an audio shop as I had an amplifier added in the trunk. However I had removed all the original speakers myself and know that the existing cabling is basically unuseable when installing a new headunit due to the use of the fader control etc.

Good Luck - let us know how you go !

wredas

Okay. Yea I'll try that and let you know! Thanks!

Floobydust

If this is an amateur installation using one those aftermarket "no splice" plug-in OEM (MB uses ISO connectors) adapters, only two channels from the LG deck would be used to drive all four speakers through the MB resistive fader in the console. These faders barely survived the 4-6 watts RMS power of the factory stereo. Newer decks with bridge mode amplifiers are good for about 25 watts RMS which will overheat and destroy the fader in short order. Then, what I have sometimes seen is the DPO will open up the console and bypass the burnt out fader rather than replace it. They may have only jumpered to the rear speakers.

As recommended above, you should check the integrity at least one of the front speaker voice coils (you can also use a AA size battery to quickly test them - place the bottom of the battery on one of the speaker terminals where the wires solder on, then touch the top of the battery to each of the male terminals on the speaker harness plug one at a time. If the cone moves on either one, your problem is not the speakers themselves.)

If the speakers are good, check under the console for wiring modifications there. Also, try unplugging the fader altogether and see if you still have rear audio. If you do, the fader/factory wiring has been bypassed somewhere else. If you have some small test leads, you can also try by-passing the fader yourself if not already done.

If your car is equipped with an amplifier and it is still in use, the list of things that could be wrong gets much more complicated, but the fader is still the weak link.

Good luck.

wredas

I did like this, this white connectors (dont know the name in english..) are to the front speakers. So I took a speaker wire and did like this.

This didnt work on the original speakers, but on the speaker on the picture (Its a speaker I had in the basement) it worked. I didnt try with a battery though but I dont think the original speakers work, I dont know why?
It doesnt look like anyone have ever opened the covers. I didnt disconnect the wires on the original speakers because they were "welded". Do you think they might work if I disconnect the wires? They are not connected to the headunit I think.

stormtigers

Attached are some photos of the original speakers removed from my car. Yes the wires are "soldered" onto the speaker BUT if you pull the speaker out from the panel you should find that they plug into a connector via a 2 pin arrangement.
Then try attaching the removed speaker via some wires to you headunit.
It would be highly unlikely that no sound whatsoever would come from these speakers even if the cone is broken you should still get noise.

I would also suggest that the watts capability of these speakers is much less than what your headunit is going to output to them so it would be a good time to look for some replacements. Not knowing the model but at a guess I would say they are 4 inch speakers which you can buy good quality replacements for aruond $50-60 a pair. Make sure that the depth of any replacments is the same as the old speakers and after you run some new wires from the headunit they should slot straight in where the old ones were. You probably wont be able to mount any cover plate on them but the exisiting MB covers work just as well,

wredas

Okay thanks again Going to try that!

stormtigers

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Må kraften vara med dig

wredas

They work now! Or atleast the right one, havent done anything to the left one yet but im sure that one will work to Anyway I unplugged the speaker and it didnt work at all, and yes that was the problem all the time So I just connected the wires to my 5,25" speaker and it worked To bad 5,25 doesnt fit to good, maybe I'll cut the hole a little bigger.

zurield

sound proofing whata kind have you used????