Froodmine

Yesterday I heard a squeeking sound as I got out of the car. I thought it was the driver's seat, but then I realized it was coming from the rear suspension. When I move the car up and down the sound is there. Takes no effort to make it squeek. Any ideas as to where I should look first? Sounds like a bushing noise to me, but I'm not sure.

ebennz

have you ever replaced the rear shocks?

look at them,if they are leaking they are worn out.

just a thought

peter

dmatre

Most likely, it is the bushings in the rear suspension links.

Had the same problem in my '87.

After about 10-15 years, the rubber in the bushings degrades. This results in the squeak, and in imprecise handling from the rear of the car.

I ended up replacing all of the rear suspension links, and having the shop replace the subframe and differential bushings. This cleared the squeak, and made the car feel like new again.

You can spray some lithium grease into the bushing to quiet the squeak, but it will quickly come back after driving in the rain.

Froodmine

Thanks very much, fellows. I'll look into the shocks and the bushings.

pifcat2

dmatre,
My doesn't squeek but I have a strange looseness feel in the rear when driving. How much did the bushing replacement cost? Is any of it a DIY job?

dmatre

If I recall, it was less than $500 in parts for the rear links. The sub-frame bushings were a bigger deal (need a lift and special tools to replace). I got mine through PerformanceProducts, but had to do some work to get them to fit (wrong bolts sent). You can probably find the required parts through Adsit.com, or one of the other MB parts shops.

Replacing each of the 4 smaller links in the rear (4 per side, 8 total) is about a 1/2 day job using normal tools (Note: metric allen wrenches required also). The parts are suprisingly affordable.

To replace, simply unbolt both ends of each link, remove the old link, install the new link, and replace/tighten new bolts.

Note: After replacing the rear links, you do need to get an alignment in the rear, as the toe will definitely have changed.

To check if you need to replace the links, jack up the car, grab one of the links (each one, one by one), and try to move it. If there is any significant deflection or movement, the bushing is shot.

It's not too hard, but it is a dirty job.

Made a great difference in the way the car drove.

tonystewart

Today I replaced the 4 rear links on each side of the rear suspension. The looseness is gone. It handles like new. I did not replace the subframe mounts. I didn't have a lift. Total cost was $320 in parts and my six hours of labor. My knees are killing me. I did a tape measure rear alignment and got it pretty close. Alignment appointment is Monday, then off to Costco for new tires. Thanks for the advice, now it doesn't appear I am driving a drunk car.

dmatre

Great news, thanks for the update.

bamberger_1

You can locate the cause for the noise, by applying some WD40 step by step, one link after the other and one bushing after another. If it stops, at least for a while you know what it was.
The rubber bushings are not a DIY job, unless you have pro-tools and a lift. If not it's a bid dangerious, and normalyy the old once dont come out easy (most of the time they burn it out) and the new once are tough to get back in again. The links work better beside one of them which requires also the brake assembly to come off completely.

tonystewart

You remove the caliper and the disc, then just grab the dustshield and bend it back out of the way. When completed with the two link attaching points behind it just get a rubber hammer and bang it back into place. I learned this from a mechanic who worked at a dealership in the northeast called VITI. Saves an hour!

bamberger_1

I know this version too, but they did it with mine and after a few weeks the shield strated grinding along the hub, since it started already some corrosion, it did not bent back centered and than I had to take thing apart anyway.

pifcat2

Can any of you post the replacement part numbers and descriptions? Maybe even prices. Any recommendations for internet ordering?
Thanks,
Felix

tonystewart

Thrust arm 210 350 3806A $27.12 Qty 2
Tie Rod 210 350 2153A $44.92 Qty 2
Camber Strut 210 350 3406S $42.43 Qty 2
Control Arm Strut 210 350 3306 $21.16 Qty 2
Adjustment Kit 210 352 0043 $2.47 Qty 5
Bolt Kit 210 350 4506 $5.26 Qty 5

Patience, Flexability and Tools----- "Priceless"

pifcat2

Thanks Tonystewart!
Does anyone have the alignment specs? I've had my rear supspension aligned on my 914 and not everyone can do it. It's good to be prepared with the specs.
Omegabenz suggests this is the time to lower the car if you're planning it especially since you need to get it aligned.
Felix

tonystewart

Add one more part to that list

Outer Control Arm Bushing or Wheel Carrier Bushing.

201 352 0027

The old one had so much slop I don't know how it maintained proper rear toe. Did the job on the car. Loosened the thrust arm, and removed the end attached to the wheel carrier. Pulled the bolt holding the control arm to the wheel carrier. There it was old and rotten and floppy loose. Drove it out with a socket and a hammer. Then installed the new piece with a tie rod press. Careful it is oil filled. I realize the book says to disassemble the whole thing and remove the bushing with the wheel carrier off the car and use a press, please!! A good mechanic knows the shortcuts.

No more play in the rear and the ride improved again. I wish I had replaced it when I did all the arms.

Good Luck!!

scapchak

I'm having the same issue. A chirp/squeak sometimes followed by a pop! My mechanic says everything looks a-ok, but the noise is driving me nuts - heard especially when I drive into my garage which has a 3-4 inch drop, and when I get out of the driver's seat.
Have you had any luck?
I think I'm going to invest in re-doing all the rear suspension and sway bar bushings... might as well do it while everything is disassembled.
thanks
Steve Capchak
San Francisco