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I am hitting that stage in a project where some of the things didn't go as planned and the easy options have been exhausted. I did receive the ignition module but found I did not want to compromise on one aspect though it would run the engine which is what I really need at this point.
The XIM does not allow for engine load timing adjustments or provide ignition advance at idle. I have since ordered a Nodiz module to run the engine in waste spark with single spark and allow me to move forward with the project for now. It looks like I will probably progress to a more custom arduino setup with enough capability to run the 16 coils but stick with waste spark if the Nodiz runs well. It would cost thousands to run a higher end ECU because most will run injectors and require coil drivers. I really want to make this project as cheap as possible without major modifications.
I have the engine ready mechanically to install. The exhaust is the other hurdle. I would probably need a w208 drivers side manifold at least if I stick with Benz derived parts even after the rack install. There is room around the outside of the steering coupler but the manifold/header would need to be perfectly angled to stretch around it. Still an option. What I see on the market for MB headers is a joke to be honest and way overpriced. The well designed headers are well over $1K and they are just mediocre in the world of race headers. I spend a lot of time looking at both spectrums and you can get crazy performance of the domestic side for what we would spend to get an extra 100hp from the MB. I did some research and see that LS(small block GM stuff) based exhaust ports are spaced approx 4.375" apart and this happens to be very close to the M113. Close enough to cut off the LS flanges and weld on our flanges. I have extra sets of M113 manifolds and extra cylinder heads for weld up. I just need to find a set of shortys that fit nice and there are dozens of different LS headers out there starting at $90 shipped to your door. With large collectors too!
I will soon discuss the steering rack to lower control arm interference that is inevitable if making the rack swap. Also some other details like the wheels, gearbox, etc
After much grief I finally have this engine running. The NoDiz ecu was a total failure and I will leave it at that. Many, many hours wasted trying to get it to work and going back and forth with the seller and manufacturer left me very depressed with the build. I then decided to go with the Speeduino setup and man! What a great system! I received this setup and had this engine running in no time with more adjust ability than one could ever need or even want. I am just utilizing the ignition portion but no doubt the fuel injection side is just as user friendly and I look forward to my next build getting to actually use the fuel side of this module.
This engine running is still on the base ignition tune and I have adjusted nothing over just the base 10 degree timing. No carb adjustments, MAP sensor adjustments or ignition timing mapping changes. I will play with the fuel mixture once in the car and the wideband O2 sensors are connected. I hope you can see the throttle response when revving this engine without any tuning whatsoever. I am so happy to be motivated once again on this project. She's gonna rip!
Sounds good
Nice rumble and torqy as it twists your stand...
What type of exhaust will you go with in the car? Sleeper quiet with cutouts or NASTY?
I am really looking forward to getting her up to temp and idled down to hear what we were able to get with this cam grind. Top end power should be great but I do like to hear some lope at idle too.
I am thinking now to run a pair of Borla Pro XS mufflers which are more aggressive sounding and I was blown away with the guy that ran the side exits under the rear seat bottom on his W124. I may have to try that on this build. I think 'nasty' fits the bill as far as sound goes. I will say that I do plan to keep the interior as intact and stock as possible as it's in really nice shape but the drive-train will be all old school hotrod.
In case anyone would like to follow along I will be posting videos frequently about the different aspects of this build including some in depth details and why I chose the components I did. Some will be more about the drive-train but others will about the W124 chassis modifications that are probably more suited to this forum. I enjoy answering questions and hope to fill information gaps that I could never find while digging into how I was going to build this car to actually hit the road, so ask away. I am planning a rear differential video next that I feel is the single biggest performance mod that one can do to the 400E.
Things progressing verrry slowly with all the crap going on. I did make a change to a different transmission (722.636) over the .649 but for good reason in my eyes. I would rather keep the 649 for a boosted project in the future and go with something adequate for this build so will go through the 636 and make some mods before installing. The front lower control arms are about finished so I would include some pics soon on that project and why they are needed.
I think this engine may have me hooked for several future personal engine builds going forward. It's an awfully sexy engine if dressed up in some shiny bits and stripped down all mechanical looking. I threw on a large velocity stack I had here in the shop and I ram really enjoying this engine over any other part of the build though still cant wait to drive her.
Love it man! What all am I looking at here?? Distributors in the back? Is that a SBF intake manifold? We should be neighbors for sure! Please post a whole thread on this crazy build. I want to hear that thing run!
I thought I saw you paddle shifting but was not real sure.... very hard to tell from angle...
But now that you say you were it is easier to recognize your hand movements as paddle up shifts... for downshifts ... well that left hand is hard to see.
What a great build! I just came across your YouTube channel last weekend and you had me at "Cam Regrind"! I did a M113K swap into my W208 CLK55 over the winter and have spend most of the year sorting things out. I would love to hear more about your cam regrinding adventures. So far I have talked (via email) to Daniel at Daniel Crower racing, who said he could do it, but I haven't pursued it further (yet). Next year's project for me will be doing a fully-built bottom end along with heads and cams, so I'm gathering information now.
Just using a polishing wheel and rouge. The polish will be short lived and oxidize very quickly so it's a temporary finish. Going with powder coating the next time they are off the engine.