Waldo Boshoff

Good morning all

I own a 1996 E220 (Manual Transmission) with the M111 engine. As of late I have been having intermittent problems with starting the car, both warm-start and cold-start.
Whe I turn the ignition to "On" position all dash-lights come on as per usual, but when I make the final turn to ignite the engine, nothing happens. Not a click, not even an attempt to turn over. It's as if the immobilisor is active (Aftermarket Vesa 4 system).

I initially replaced the actual starter as I thought the Solenoid was acting up. Following this replacement, at least two weeks went by without any issues, and then it started up again. I then proceded to replace the Ignition Barrel as it was worn. Again, following this replacement, no issues for a couple of weeks and then out of the blue, the problem started up again. Battery is also new.

The dash lights does not dim when I try to start the car, it is just that nothing happens at all. I can hear the Petrol Pump priming, and that's where it ends.

I have read some international forums where similar issues were discussed. Based on these forums it is possible that it could be the K38 Relay, but the issues are usually paired with other symptoms which is not present on my vehicle.

Can anyone relate to my problem, and if so, what action/replacement parts were needed to resolve the problem?
Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. I do not have an unlimited budget to do Trial-and-error repairs to get to the bottom of the situation, so any help will be greatly appreciated.

Just as an added bit of information, the engine wiring harness was replaced before I took ownership of the vehicle.

Thanking you in advance

khomer2

Take a step back.
Check for any parasitic drain on the battery.
What is the battery voltage at the terminals, at rest.
Then with the key in the ignition in position 1, what the the battery voltage?

As for your 3rd party alarm system, can't help you there. But do provide history on this install and when, for the readers.

Waldo Boshoff

Thank you for the response khomer2, much appreciated.

I had someone help me with the fitment of the starter. This person did do a voltage test first and determined that all was good in that department. I did not bother to ask what the figures were. Bear in mind though that this problem only started acting up recently, I replaced the battery eight months ago and had no issues with battery draining or such, so I can safely say that there are enough power getting through.

What I probably should have added to the intial post is that sometimes, when this problem occurs is, that when I turn the ignition off and then on again, the car starts right up. Other times I am not that lucky, but if I leave the car stand for about 5 minutes (ignition off), and then try again, it also starts up. Then there are the days where nothing helps, I have to push-start the car to get going.

Then with regards to the after-market immobilisor system: This was installed in 1997 as part of an insurance mandate on the car (before tracking devices became mandatory). The previous owner kept meticulous records of all work done to the vehicle and the receipt of said system install is present among the paperwork that came with the car.

The seraches I have done on this forum as well as on pelican parts did not yield the information I am looking for. It is hard to find info if the problem is intermittent and not constant. As mentioned above, I drove for weeks without any issues before the problem started up again, and also intermittantly. I'll drive for a day or two without issues, and then suddenly, the next time I want to start the vehicle nothing happens, so I am at a loss.

The closest thread on the forum I got to this problem referred to the K38 relay as being faulty, that and a specific fuse and was paired with other symptoms like a loud buzzing sound coming from the engine compartment etc. My Merc's symptom is only that: Not turning over, no strange sounds, no lights dimming, nothing. Just no reaction to my input.

My next course ofaction, in my attempt to "problem-solve", is to get someone to help me bypass/remove the immobilisor before spending money on replacement parts. She is fitted with both a factory-fitted gearlock as well as a tracking device which should be okay..

I hope the above added information gives more clarity on the situation.

khomer2

To clarify, when you attempt to start up with key in ignition, do you get any click of the starter attempting to engage, or no click at all?
(ie. crank and no start or no crank at all)

Do the cluster lights come on when you attempt to start?

khomer2

I'm not 100% familiar with a MT layout on these w124s...
You can verify starter and solenoid are ok with this test on an AT.


Edit:
Read this if you have not done so already - too see if you have similar symptoms

Waldo Boshoff

There are no "clicks', no. It's as if the immobilisor wasn't deactivated. Cluster do come on, yes.
The only sound that is audible is when the petrol pump primes for that one second before starting up, an abrupt buzz sound from the rear of the car.

Waldo Boshoff

Thanks, but the starter and solenoid was replaced with original MB part about a month ago. That was my first suspicion as I could hear the solenoid in particular struggeling to engage. Following this replacement I had two weeks of problem-free motoring before it started acting up again. I then replaced the ignition barrel (the original barrel was slightly worn, but still locked the key in place).

Upon removing the original barrel, it was found that there was a piece that was broken off, so naturally I assumed we have found the culrpit. Again, soon after replacement, the issue started up again.

Benzdriver91

When you don't hear any clicks by turning the ignition, maybe the ignition switch behind the ignition lock is mad. I had the same symptome with an 95' C220. Nothing happened that day. But with a new ignition switch the car started as normal.

Waldo Boshoff

Well, that would make sense, yes. The C-Clas and E-class of that era pretty much had the same engines and electronics, so it could very well be. Thank you, it helps to narrow down possible causes quite abit..

Benzdriver91

The ignition switches of w124 and w202 are almost the same but the ones from w202 don't last as long. Change is not a big deal.

Waldo Boshoff

Feedback: I replaced the Ignition Switch and so far so good, she starts right up without any issues. I'll be monitoring the situation over the next two weeks because, as mentioned earlier in the tthread, the problem was intermittent. I am however positive that this will resolve the issue once and for all. Thank you everyone, your input and advice was top-notch.