Door Lock/Key Question
02-06-2005, 07:32 PM
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Door Lock/Key Question
Hmm...yesterday I started having a problem with opening my door. My master key doesnt go in smoothly anymore. Anyone know what gives? I have to literally wiggle the key to get in and lock/unlock the door. Doesn't come out smoothly either.
My friend was thinking maybe something got in there but I doubt that.
My friend was thinking maybe something got in there but I doubt that.
02-06-2005, 08:34 PM
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same here
I was having the same problem when I tried to take my key out of the ignition and I would sometimes spend 5-10 minutes just trying to take it out and had to buy a lock cylinder with a key, steering lock, and ignition swithch and now it works fine.
02-07-2005, 05:07 AM
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93 320CE, 72 280SE 3.5, 55 220A, 05 E280CDI, 88 Mini Mayfair, 90 Peugeot 205GTI, 04 Mini Cooper
Put graphite powder into the door lock. I did it a coupla weeks ago and it is now perfect.
As for the ignition barrel that is a common problem on 124's and 190's. If that starts to get stiff you need a new barrel or the key will get stuck in it.
As for the ignition barrel that is a common problem on 124's and 190's. If that starts to get stiff you need a new barrel or the key will get stuck in it.
02-07-2005, 09:38 AM
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93 320CE, 72 280SE 3.5, 55 220A, 05 E280CDI, 88 Mini Mayfair, 90 Peugeot 205GTI, 04 Mini Cooper
All I did was scrape the lead from an ordinary pencil onto a piece of paper, dip the key into it and then put it in the lock, do this a few times.
Most hardware stores should have graphite powder too.
Most hardware stores should have graphite powder too.
02-07-2005, 10:46 AM
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1991 300E
I had the same problem with my driver's door, I squirted a tiny shot of WD-40 into the lock and it cured it instantly. With all the wear of locking and Unlocking that the drivers door gets, you should probably oil the lock once in a while to keep the tumblers free from all the filings and grit that result from normal wear.
02-07-2005, 12:52 PM
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2001 c320 - 2002 ml55 - 2011 c300 - 2014 slk350 - 2015 cla45
....
id look at getting that fixed.... this last summer i had been noticing along those same lines with my metal key...... i didnt think much of it at the time.. but what ended up happening to me is the metal key got stuck in the door when i was locking the car.... no matter what i did i could not get the key out.... when i used another key to open the car from the passenger side... or even the trunk the alarm would go off.... and i could not disarm the alarm.... it would not shut off until it went through its normal 5 or 10 minute interval of honking... then shut off... rest and start all over again.... because the alarm was activated with the other key in the door.... it basically killed the car.. i couldnt start it... i ended up having to unhook the battery so the alarm would shut off.... and i had the car towed to the dealer... They eneded up installing a new barrel and ordering me a new key..... so.. the i guess what im trying to say is.. dont take this problem to lightly... or youll get stranded somewhere... also might want to carry an extra key with you....
-carino
1979 300d
1994 e320
2002 c240
-carino
1979 300d
1994 e320
2002 c240
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02-07-2005, 01:13 PM
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Thanks Charles and everyone else. I'll try the WD-40 when I get home from school later. This morning it didnt really struggle to get in. So I suppose its not so serious. All it needs is some lubercation. 
02-15-2005, 12:35 AM
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Bringing this back to llife because it's happening again.
Does anyone know how much it will cost to buy and replace all the locks and what not?
Does anyone know how much it will cost to buy and replace all the locks and what not?
02-15-2005, 02:10 AM
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1992 300CE AMG Hammer Replica, 2004 C240, 2015 ML350
you can order the tumbler from the dealer should not be ridiculously expensive.
Is your key new or old, it could be the key is worn a bit too.
My old key was always a bit rough feeling in the locks and ignition, the new key I ordered works better. and was not expensive, around $15.00 I think.
You can remove the lock part pretty easily, there should be a little cap on the door above the latch. Behind it is an allen head screw. you can loosen the screw then remove the tumbler part of the lock. you need to have the key in it and turn it to release it from the inside part it is connected to. there is a wire attached to it, so you want to be careful to remove it with care. if you brake the clips that hold it on, the alarm will not arm, and it may affect the central locking from that door.
Once it is out, you can try the key in it and see if it turns easily and freely, if it does then look to the part it connects to in the door as it is possible that that may be the problem.
Either way with it out, you should be able to go to the dealer and order a replacement, or it may be possible to swap it with the passenger side but I am not sure if you can.
Ashman
Is your key new or old, it could be the key is worn a bit too.
My old key was always a bit rough feeling in the locks and ignition, the new key I ordered works better. and was not expensive, around $15.00 I think.
You can remove the lock part pretty easily, there should be a little cap on the door above the latch. Behind it is an allen head screw. you can loosen the screw then remove the tumbler part of the lock. you need to have the key in it and turn it to release it from the inside part it is connected to. there is a wire attached to it, so you want to be careful to remove it with care. if you brake the clips that hold it on, the alarm will not arm, and it may affect the central locking from that door.
Once it is out, you can try the key in it and see if it turns easily and freely, if it does then look to the part it connects to in the door as it is possible that that may be the problem.
Either way with it out, you should be able to go to the dealer and order a replacement, or it may be possible to swap it with the passenger side but I am not sure if you can.
Ashman
