Lugnut hell again
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Lugnut hell again
How many of you have had your wheels removed for some purpose and wound up in drill hell trying to get the sheared lug out of the hub? The MB designers of the W210 (at least for the sport wheels) smoked a heap of good stuff, then decided to use enlongated lugs with a thinner neck then the bolt head. With the inevitable rusting and seizing over time, these lugs shear clean off the moment an impact wrench touches them. The next 2 hours is then spent drilling down into the sheared remains (a good 2") with larger and larger drill bits until the wheel can be hammered off.
Of course then, nobody has proper replacements for the lugs, so you either leave with less then 5 lugs, or you leave with a mismosh of OEM and short replacements, and more then likely, a damaged wheel from the drill slippage.
What is the solution here?
Of course then, nobody has proper replacements for the lugs, so you either leave with less then 5 lugs, or you leave with a mismosh of OEM and short replacements, and more then likely, a damaged wheel from the drill slippage.
What is the solution here?
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I put a little bit of multi-purpose automotive grase on the threads. Prevents the corrosion from making situations like that from happening. Don't smother it, just a little bit...
#3
Stuck lugs aren't typically caused by corrosion, but instead cross threading. If a shop doesn't properly hand thread and torque the wheel lugs, the potential for cross threading is a reality.
Genuine Mercedes lugs have a dacromet coating which is a fantastic barrier to corrosion and rusting. Make sure that the hub isn't cross threaded, and if necessary replace the hub.
If you live in areas with extreme corrosion problems due to snow or salted roads, you might consider a small dab of anti-seize on the wheel lugs to further aide against corrosion.
Genuine Mercedes lugs have a dacromet coating which is a fantastic barrier to corrosion and rusting. Make sure that the hub isn't cross threaded, and if necessary replace the hub.
If you live in areas with extreme corrosion problems due to snow or salted roads, you might consider a small dab of anti-seize on the wheel lugs to further aide against corrosion.
#4
Senior Member
Rust on rotors?
Hi, I just bought a set of rotors from PureMS (from Mike?) it's for E320. I want to know why the ATE rotors rust like crazy? I can see the rust stain are on the wheels too! Am I getting a worser quality than the stock ones? I believe the stock rotors are not made out of iron which would not be the case. Please "persuade" me and tell me you are selling high quality products.
Jonathan
Jonathan
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New York City
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e320 99
rusting bolts
My bolts rust as well but luckily i remove them before they come to that dead level, however, there are after market bolts which are slightly diffrently than OEM. I know I have to use those on my new rims and they are fairly inexpensive campered to the OEM ones.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by diffuzi0n
My bolts rust as well but luckily i remove them before they come to that dead level, however, there are after market bolts which are slightly diffrently than OEM. I know I have to use those on my new rims and they are fairly inexpensive campered to the OEM ones.
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#9
Originally Posted by blueC230K
Hi, I just bought a set of rotors from PureMS (from Mike?) it's for E320. I want to know why the ATE rotors rust like crazy? I can see the rust stain are on the wheels too! Am I getting a worser quality than the stock ones? I believe the stock rotors are not made out of iron which would not be the case. Please "persuade" me and tell me you are selling high quality products.
Jonathan
Jonathan
Rotor plating comes in various coating materials such as zinc or cadmium. The plating is typically a light grey color, or sometimes gold color. This coating wear away on the braking surface, and remains on the non-braking surfaces for a short period.
Hope that helps to explain things!