97 E320 head gasket leak and oil change
07-06-2005, 11:01 AM
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97 E320 head gasket leak and oil change
Hi all, I know there are a lot of threads here regarding head gaskets on E320's and even more threads about oil changes and types. Here's a question that may bring the 2 together... My mechanic informed me after a recent visit for routine service that I'm starting to develop a head gasket leak on my 97 E320 (117,000 miles). I'm starting to get a bit of oil in the coolant which is apparently a tell tale sign... He said that I don't need to do anything about it right now, just keep an eye on it and when it worsens, decide on fixing or selling. He also said that with my limited driving it'll take about a year or so to become a real problem.
So here's my question: Can the type and viscosity of the oil I use do anything to help (or worsen) the leak? Is there a difference between say 0W-50 and 10W-30 in the way that the oil will leak? Dino vs. synthetic? Do you think it's significant or will choice of oil not affect the problem?
Any opinions and/or explanations will be appreciated. Thanks.
So here's my question: Can the type and viscosity of the oil I use do anything to help (or worsen) the leak? Is there a difference between say 0W-50 and 10W-30 in the way that the oil will leak? Dino vs. synthetic? Do you think it's significant or will choice of oil not affect the problem?
Any opinions and/or explanations will be appreciated. Thanks.
07-06-2005, 10:13 PM
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Personally, I would get it fixed soon because oil in the coolant could impede the radiator's ability to cool, and water could be getting into the oil. The head gasket isn't as pricey to fix as most would think - retail price at local dealership is around $1200, and you could probably have it done for less (or do it yourself for even less).
My original headgasket is just starting to seep onto outside of block @ 163k miles, but I'm not worried about it. The day I see water in the oil or vice versa, it's going in for a new HG.
And yes oil type/weight could, and most likely will, affect the amount that seeps/leaks/burns. If you aren't running synthetic already, don't switch (unless you drive your car HARD). I've been running synthetic since about 20k miles, and I think that helped the HG stay good for so long.
If you are running dino oil, then I would recommend switching to Kendall GT-1. It is known to be the best of the dino oils, and actually lowered oil consumption in many of our customers' Bimmers & Benzes at my old shop. You might consider switching from 10w30 to a 10w40, 15w40, or maybe even a 20w50 (depending on where you live).
Raj
My original headgasket is just starting to seep onto outside of block @ 163k miles, but I'm not worried about it. The day I see water in the oil or vice versa, it's going in for a new HG.
And yes oil type/weight could, and most likely will, affect the amount that seeps/leaks/burns. If you aren't running synthetic already, don't switch (unless you drive your car HARD). I've been running synthetic since about 20k miles, and I think that helped the HG stay good for so long.
If you are running dino oil, then I would recommend switching to Kendall GT-1. It is known to be the best of the dino oils, and actually lowered oil consumption in many of our customers' Bimmers & Benzes at my old shop. You might consider switching from 10w30 to a 10w40, 15w40, or maybe even a 20w50 (depending on where you live).
Raj
07-07-2005, 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I'm going to start getting some estimates but my mechanic still insists that I've got some time before D day...
On the oil viscosity issue: I live in Boston and change my oil twice a year. November and May. What would you recommend (with a leaking head gasket in mind) for a winter oil weight (temps average 20-30 but can get below zero in vermont) and summer (average temp around 80)?
Any suggestions on this? Maybe someone can remind me again what the first weight number on the oil means again.
By the way, I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30 for the life of the car. Oil is changed every 6 months or around 6k miles.
On the oil viscosity issue: I live in Boston and change my oil twice a year. November and May. What would you recommend (with a leaking head gasket in mind) for a winter oil weight (temps average 20-30 but can get below zero in vermont) and summer (average temp around 80)?
Any suggestions on this? Maybe someone can remind me again what the first weight number on the oil means again.
By the way, I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30 for the life of the car. Oil is changed every 6 months or around 6k miles.
07-07-2005, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by stickygreen
Personally, I would get it fixed soon because oil in the coolant could impede the radiator's ability to cool, and water could be getting into the oil. The head gasket isn't as pricey to fix as most would think - retail price at local dealership is around $1200, and you could probably have it done for less (or do it yourself for even less).
My original headgasket is just starting to seep onto outside of block @ 163k miles, but I'm not worried about it. The day I see water in the oil or vice versa, it's going in for a new HG.
And yes oil type/weight could, and most likely will, affect the amount that seeps/leaks/burns. If you aren't running synthetic already, don't switch (unless you drive your car HARD). I've been running synthetic since about 20k miles, and I think that helped the HG stay good for so long.
If you are running dino oil, then I would recommend switching to Kendall GT-1. It is known to be the best of the dino oils, and actually lowered oil consumption in many of our customers' Bimmers & Benzes at my old shop. You might consider switching from 10w30 to a 10w40, 15w40, or maybe even a 20w50 (depending on where you live).
Raj
My original headgasket is just starting to seep onto outside of block @ 163k miles, but I'm not worried about it. The day I see water in the oil or vice versa, it's going in for a new HG.
And yes oil type/weight could, and most likely will, affect the amount that seeps/leaks/burns. If you aren't running synthetic already, don't switch (unless you drive your car HARD). I've been running synthetic since about 20k miles, and I think that helped the HG stay good for so long.
If you are running dino oil, then I would recommend switching to Kendall GT-1. It is known to be the best of the dino oils, and actually lowered oil consumption in many of our customers' Bimmers & Benzes at my old shop. You might consider switching from 10w30 to a 10w40, 15w40, or maybe even a 20w50 (depending on where you live).
Raj
Which dealer quoted you $1200?
I think mine mentioned $3000 the last time I asked.
) charges $1200 P&L for the I-6 headgasket.
07-07-2005, 04:24 PM
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2001 E320 (210.065), Brilliant Silver; 2002 Ducati ST-2, Arrest-me Red
Multi-vis oils
Originally Posted by smazur
...On the oil viscosity issue: I live in Boston and change my oil twice a year. November and May. What would you recommend (with a leaking head gasket in mind) for a winter oil weight (temps average 20-30 but can get below zero in vermont) and summer (average temp around 80)?
Any suggestions on this? Maybe someone can remind me again what the first weight number on the oil means again.
By the way, I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30 for the life of the car. Oil is changed every 6 months or around 6k miles.
Any suggestions on this? Maybe someone can remind me again what the first weight number on the oil means again.
By the way, I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30 for the life of the car. Oil is changed every 6 months or around 6k miles.
In a multi-viscosity oil the first number (preceding the "W") is the likened viscosity when the oil is cold/cool. As the oil temperature increases, the viscosity effectively changes to the second number.
MBZ now recommends Mobil1 0w-40 in all their cars, all climates. The 0W is certainly fine for as cold as it gets where you are, and the 40 would provide protection no matter how hot it gets. Nor is it too high a viscosity for your winter temps. As fast as the cars warm up I don't think the difference between 0w and 10w is meaningful in terms of leaking, but the 30 to 40 could easily make a difference. Under the circumstances you describe, I'd run the Mobil1 0w40 all year round.
On the gasket itself, I tend to side with the other guys. Oil and water don't mix, and water in the oil can reduce it's ability to lubricate in many ways. Poor lubrication = poor protection = engine damage. Oil in the water isn't great, but it's usually not nearly as bad as water in the oil. And of course it depends on how much there is. Many of the MBZ cars tend to form a milky substance on the inside of the filler cap, which is normal, particularly if you drive a lot of short distances (it's not actually leaking, it's condensation). On the other hand, if you can actually see water on the dipstick or the oil has a milky look to it, that's seriously bad news.
Good luck and enjoy the ride,
Greg
