Different financing on his E350




I'm trying to find holes in this method, but is sounds pretty good for those in a position of a large 401K. Anyone know about this pros and conns?
I'm trying to find holes in this method, but is sounds pretty good for those in a position of a large 401K. Anyone know about this pros and conns?
My Morgan Stanley portfolio allows for this, and it's not a bad idea, if you have a major opportunity cost issue.. but the same can be said for using a HELOC and deducting the interest off your taxes.
On a car, being depreciating asset, cash is always King.. As I said before, I paid 85% cash and financed the rest just to "Exercise" my credit.




I bridged myself 15K while moving into our new house this summer, but immediately paid myself back after having it "out" for only 2 1/2 months. Safety net of sorts to get all the lovelies associated with a new house/property.
Hell, it's your money do what you want to !!!
I bridged myself 15K while moving into our new house this summer, but immediately paid myself back after having it "out" for only 2 1/2 months. Safety net of sorts to get all the lovelies associated with a new house/property.
Hell, it's your money do what you want to !!!
If the loan money does stay invested, as you say, it's a great deal.
But if it doesn't stay invested, then it's not such a great deal in the big picture. Although you may save a few interest points on your purchase in the short run, you're sacrificing part of your retirement for the long run.
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
The real issue that is considered has been mentioned previously, and that is the opportunity cost. If a traditional car loan from a bank costs 4% and your 401K invested in a 50:50 mix has a total return annualizing at roughly 6-7%, then you will never recover your interest costs on a traditional loan as that is a definite outflow of funds to the bank. Think of the loan against the 401K as leverage of capital. Remember, leverage works both ways.
Having said all this...bond rates are still historically low and may remain in this range for the next year or so. Bottom line is money is still cheap and all things being equal, there is greater likelihood of appreciation from stocks than there is new issue 6% treasury coupons for the next few years.
It's a rookie mistake that should only be considered if you are competely broke and facing bankruptcy. And if this is the case, then you should be considering a Neon, not a Mercedes.




I still don't see how this is a bad deal.
The same $50,000 borrowed at 6% interest for 5 years you'll repay a total of $58,000.
You're only paying $8,000 in extra interest versus losing a potential of $180,000 by borrowing against your 401k.
This calculation has a flaw in that it assumes that you'll never repay youreself. You will, but you will always lose the time value of the $50,000 and all compounded interest from now until you retire. The key is that the interest compounds on itself, meaning that the interest makes more interest every year after that.
The point is that you'll get much more value out of the 401k money compounding over time than you will by repaying yourself back.
Do a simple search on "borrowing against your 401k" and you'll see that in any other case excpet hardship withdrawals and home purchases, this is a very BAAAAD idea.




Let's assume a $50k 401k loan, assuming 8% capital appreciation, and that you have 20 years until you retire. Let's also assume that you can get a car or home equity loan at 6%.
The issue here is that every year that your money is out of your 401k it will not be appreciating. That money compounds onto itself and thus earns more money. So my calculations below are based solely on the interest that the missing money is earning.
The first year alone you lose all the interest that your 50k will earn. x .08 =$4,000. $4,000 compounded annually over 20 years at 8% is $19,707.
That right there is reason enough to not do it. A car loan will cost you approx $8,000 in interest.
And that's only considering the first years lost compounded interest. Assuming you'll repay 10k per year for 5 years - In year 2 you'll lose 40k x .08= 3,200. Year 3 30k x .08. Year 3 20k x .08. Year 4 10k x .08.
That's $15,000 worth of interest that will not be there to compound annually for the next 20 years. The interest alone compounded annually 15k at 8% over 20 years = approx $73,000. Now $73,000 may not be a lot of money to someone who has $500k in their 401k but compared to paying $8k back against your car loan it's a lot. So why would you pay an extra $61,000 for that car. Because that's what it's actually costing you if you consider this option. Consider it $58,000 to buy the car with a loan ($50k loan + $8k interest). OR... $123,000 to buy the car by using your 401k ($50k + a lost $73k in 401k gains).
This is finance 101 and a very common trap that people often fall into. Do youself a favor, money is cheap to borrow. Take out the car or home equity loan, pay the bank their 8k in interest and keep your retirement nest egg in place as is. Most people don't truly understand how your money can continue to make more money if it's invested over time. Hopefully, my (crude) calculations here have convinced you that you're really paying an extra $73k for the car .
If you still don't see the logic here, please have the sense to consult a tax planner, financial advisor, or CPA to sit down with you and show you what a bad move this is.
Let's assume a $50k 401k loan, assuming 8% capital appreciation, and that you have 20 years until you retire. Let's also assume that you can get a car or home equity loan at 6%.
The issue here is that every year that your money is out of your 401k it will not be appreciating. That money compounds onto itself and thus earns more money. So my calculations below are based solely on the interest that the missing money is earning.
The first year alone you lose all the interest that your 50k will earn. x .08 =$4,000. $4,000 compounded annually over 20 years at 8% is $19,707.
That right there is reason enough to not do it. A car loan will cost you approx $8,000 in interest.
And that's only considering the first years lost compounded interest. Assuming you'll repay 10k per year for 5 years - In year 2 you'll lose 40k x .08= 3,200. Year 3 30k x .08. Year 3 20k x .08. Year 4 10k x .08.
That's $15,000 worth of interest that will not be there to compound annually for the next 20 years. The interest alone compounded annually 15k at 8% over 20 years = approx $73,000. Now $73,000 may not be a lot of money to someone who has $500k in their 401k but compared to paying $8k back against your car loan it's a lot. So why would you pay an extra $61,000 for that car. Because that's what it's actually costing you if you consider this option. Consider it $58,000 to buy the car with a loan ($50k loan + $8k interest). OR... $123,000 to buy the car by using your 401k ($50k + a lost $73k in 401k gains).
This is finance 101 and a very common trap that people often fall into. Do youself a favor, money is cheap to borrow. Take out the car or home equity loan, pay the bank their 8k in interest and keep your retirement nest egg in place as is. Most people don't truly understand how your money can continue to make more money if it's invested over time. Hopefully, my (crude) calculations here have convinced you that you're really paying an extra $73k for the car .
If you still don't see the logic here, please have the sense to consult a tax planner, financial advisor, or CPA to sit down with you and show you what a bad move this is.
I'll give an excpetion of when I bought my car in 2000... I agonized over how to pay for my E320 and whether or not to take out a bank loan or take the money from my brokerage account. I decided to pay cash because I didn't want the loan and took money from my heavily invested tecnology stocks and mutual funds to pay for the car. So I'm down $50k and have a nice car... Well over the next couple years that same $50k would have been killed by the market over 80% in the stuff I was invested in. So in that case buying a highly depeciable asset worked to my advantage. The car depreciated less than my cmgi, qualcomm, and dell stocks would have... I lucked out! But what would have happened if I was stuck with that decision in 1995 when the market was giving 20-30% gains? I didn't want to push my luck as I only started with around $15k which grew to the $50k that I took out.



