There were a couple of recall items on my car, so I visited the dealer last week. They performed the recall items and recommended that I get new engine mounts and new lower control arm bushings. Dealer Quote: $400 +/- for the mounts and $600 +/- for the bushings.

I had changed out the lower control arm bushings on my 97 W210 and that job was a real PITA and I did not immediately recognize anthing different driving the car. I figured I would wait a little while and maybe change them this Winter.
I checked on the engine mounts and I could purchase them online for $139 shipped to my door. I decided to do them myself and save the $260+ dollars for something else for my car. I am so happy that I did this one myself. From jacking up the car to washing my hands was 1 hour. Yes! 1 HOUR for both mounts! I would not call myselft a skilled mechanic either. The only tools that I needed were 1) floor jack 2) 2 jack stands 3) metric socket set with extensions 4) set of metric open end wrenches.

I got in the car and started it up. It was amazing! The car was whisper quiet again. I though my starter was ready to fail on me until tonight. The grunt it used to make is GONE. An occasional clicking noise from the front passenger side at low speeds-GONE. My car just passed 80K miles and it sounds like a new one again.

The mounts were completely collapsed and the driver side had separated. In all accounts, this was the best $139 I have ever spent on any mercedes I have ever owned.

 

i agree - i had new mounts put in my 97, and it took awhile for me to get used to knowing whether or not the car was running! at stoplights, the steering wheel has no vibration, whereas before it would shake. i wish i had tried to tackle the job myself though - i think i spent close to $500 for the job. i was just visualizing an engine hoist being involved somehow.

 

I am concerned that engine mounts need to be replaced after 5 years. What kind of quality is that. My '87 Camry does not need engine mounts yet. Amazing quality

 

Did you at least get the torque settings from the dealer ?

 

I did not get the torque settings. The original bolts were fairly easy to get loose. I tend to err on the heavy side when reinstalling. This will make it a harder job if I ever have to do it again in the future, but the grade of bolt used can withstand much heavier torque than I can exert with an 8" long ratchet.

 

When I was younger, I drove a Ford Pinto. It never needed engine mounts either (you just had to keep from being rear-ended so you would not explode).
Maybe you should find a forum for '87 camrys and discuss it with someone who cares.

 

There is a big difference in engine mounts that the word quality does not address. If you used a new Camery or Pinto type of engine mount in a W210, it would provide results similar to a well worn MB mount. There is really no way to compare one brand of car to another. The 2 series Volvo was notorious for destroying the passenger side front mount because the oil filter was right above it and the heat would fry the mount assuming you didn't spill hot oil on it to soften it first. Rubber items in the engine compartment do break down and need to be replaced.

 

How about a detailed write-up on the procedure?

 

I jacked up the front of the car on jack stands.

I unhooked the battery as a safety precaution.

Remove the plastic cover under the engine.

I loosened the the lower bolt on the passenger side engine mount using a ratchet with a 6" extension. I think it was 13mm head socket.

I used the ratchet with no extension to loosen the top bolt on the motor mount (it was either a 15mm or 16mm head).

After the bolts were loose, I placed my jack under the oil pan (with a nice block of wood to eliminate any damage) and jacked up the engine about 2 1/2 inches. The passenger side engine mount came out very easily.

I placed the new engine mount in its spot (you have to line up the lower bolt hole and the cross member). I started the lower bolt with a couple turns. I lined up the mount in the correct orientation by lining up the locator tab on the top of the mount with the slot in the engine bracket. I lowered the engine by about an inch. I got the top bolt started and then ratcheted both bolts down till I got resistance. I lowered the engine to rest and then tightened both bolts.

I did the same process on the drivers side.

1 side at a time worked well for me. I am sure that both sides could be done simultaneously.

I put the plastic cover on the underside of the engine. I took the car off the jack stands. I hooked up the battery.

I started the car and entered my radio code and the job was finished.

 

That was a brain dead shot at the 210 to say that a Camry doesn't need new mounts. Your '87 camry cannot be compared to a W210. It probably won't need to have the self dimming rear view mirror fixed either - CAUSE IT DON'T GOT ONE. You see, mercedes engineers spent years designing hydraulic engine mounts to give the 210 a silent, vibration free cabin - not rubber and not just a bolt. Most hydraulic components sag over time, and need to be replaced. This is a repair you may not have to make on every vehicle on the road today - but if you're pissed about having to make a repair like this, then you shouldn't be driving a Mercedes.

 

Got Mine done about a month ago and I noticed a big difference, no more vibration or shaking or noise, can hardly tell my car is running, one of my motor mounts were actually broken in two, meaning when I hit the gas the motor would jump, good thing it was not broken for long so there was no other damage.

 

Ala-benz, where did you purchase your engine mounts? I am about ready for a set myself.

 

I purchased mine from autopartsworld.com for $69/each. I was a little concerned when I received them because the OEM part number started with a 202 instead of the normal 210. They were Lemforder. When I pulled my old ones out, they had the same part number. The new ones fit perfectly.

 

Wonder if changing the motor mount on a inline 6 is as easy or easier.

Anyone know?

 

I need to replace the motor mounts in my 2000 E430 base model. Are both motor mounts the same? Or is there a distinct difference, to where there should be a left part# and a right part#? Does anyone have the Mercedes part number or numbers? Thanks

 

Left & Right are the same #: "202 240 49 17"...



ZAYED,,

 

Thank-you for the information! Do you know if the lemfoerder is a good quality oem replacement brand?

 

Absolutely, (Lemförder or Boge) are the best brands to go...

ZAYED,,

 

Prefer if you can replace tranny mount, its a cycle of the Engine suspension as well...

ZAYED,,

 

Thanks again for the great tips and info!!

 

terryjr,

I have the engine mounts and transmission mount for your 2000 E430 available HERE, or you can get to them by clicking on the photo of the engine mount or transmission mount below.





If there is any more information we can provide, please feel free to post or send a PM!

 

hi yes I am st the top bold part how did you get to it the position is very difficult

 

hi yes I am st the top bold part how did you get to it the position is very difficult for the life of me the Mercedes is quiet different