$10 modification, you all can do it~~~~~~~~~~~
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: HK (but constantly travelling)
98 W210 Advantgarde
Originally Posted by V8 AMG
Hi,
I was hoping to find the white LEDs but couldn't see any from that ebay seller and blue was the next closest so i got that. The one you bought from that ebay seller, was it available in white ?
I hope that these blue ones are not illegal as i will have to change bulbs again !
Thanks.
I was hoping to find the white LEDs but couldn't see any from that ebay seller and blue was the next closest so i got that. The one you bought from that ebay seller, was it available in white ?
I hope that these blue ones are not illegal as i will have to change bulbs again !
Thanks.
For a place that strictly forbids the use of fog lights under normal circumstances, I would say the law in Sydney does not allow blue LEDs...but then I haven't owned a car there for 15 years.
OT: I know a guy with a S55 in the Blue Mountains with a "AMG 220" number plate, do you guys know each other?
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 606
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From: Bellevue, WA
.... nothing to brag about, it is a previous model....
Originally Posted by V8 AMG
Hi,
I was hoping to find the white LEDs but couldn't see any from that ebay seller and blue was the next closest so i got that. The one you bought from that ebay seller, was it available in white ?
I hope that these blue ones are not illegal as i will have to change bulbs again !
Thanks.
I was hoping to find the white LEDs but couldn't see any from that ebay seller and blue was the next closest so i got that. The one you bought from that ebay seller, was it available in white ?
I hope that these blue ones are not illegal as i will have to change bulbs again !
Thanks.
At ebay type "LED festoon" in the search box, I am sure there are many of them.
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 1
From: Sydney, Australia
2008 C300 Avantgarde
Originally Posted by no_clue
At ebay type "LED festoon" in the search box, I am sure there are many of them.
Ebay Seller finally has the white LEDs that i am looking for, in stock; and I have ordered them. I think they match the car better and gives it a more classic look. Blue somehow seems too strong and a bit on the ricey side for my taste.
Should hopefully get it early next week.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Riverside, CA
98 E320
Ughhh
One of my led bulbs went out too - at least 3 of the 6 led's/flickering then going out.
The bulb from US Direct, only in for a few months.
Has anybody else tried a different source/bulb?
One of my led bulbs went out too - at least 3 of the 6 led's/flickering then going out.
The bulb from US Direct, only in for a few months.
Has anybody else tried a different source/bulb?
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 545
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From: Northeast
e300d
I completed this mod this week including the LED puddle lights. I first tried a single 100ohm 10W resistor and that caused the light fault warning to come on. I then reverted to a 47ohm 5W resistor on each side and that worked. The resistors get quite warm!
The resistors I purchased were labeled "flameproof" and look very similar to the Radio Shack ones. I found the resistors at U Do It Electronics in Needham (MA). They were $1.99 and $1.49 respectively for a 2-pk.
I may need to re-aim the LED. There is a bit more illumination than I'd like.
The resistors I purchased were labeled "flameproof" and look very similar to the Radio Shack ones. I found the resistors at U Do It Electronics in Needham (MA). They were $1.99 and $1.49 respectively for a 2-pk.
I may need to re-aim the LED. There is a bit more illumination than I'd like.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,282
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From: Naples, FL
BMW X3. R33 skyline
i'm done
new mod
half way
angle one
angle two
looks awsome in person just that clarity a crappy camera can not bring out.....i'll have to go get the other camera to REALLY show how well it came out
new mod
half way
angle one
angle two
looks awsome in person just that clarity a crappy camera can not bring out.....i'll have to go get the other camera to REALLY show how well it came out
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 27
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Originally Posted by C-2
Ughhh
One of my led bulbs went out too - at least 3 of the 6 led's/flickering then going out.
The bulb from US Direct, only in for a few months.
Has anybody else tried a different source/bulb?
One of my led bulbs went out too - at least 3 of the 6 led's/flickering then going out.
The bulb from US Direct, only in for a few months.
Has anybody else tried a different source/bulb?
Hope that helps, if you have further questions feel free to pm me.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Riverside, CA
98 E320
Originally Posted by sanjm23
C2 Check the wiring, I had that happen to me right after install. One of the bulbs were flickering. I found that the resistor and bulb were not seated well enough which cause the light to loose connection specially when shutting the trunk. Check it out and try it. Us direct bulbs out of 15 bulbs I had one defective. Mike is really cool, Im sure he will replace the bulb if it is defective. Try adjuting the contacts for the festoon to ensure proper contact. Thats another thing I did since the Leds are not exactly the right size.
Hope that helps, if you have further questions feel free to pm me.
Hope that helps, if you have further questions feel free to pm me.
On my original mod I soldered the resistors in place and all the connections were solid. I got new bulbs and popped one in - it's a lot brighter than the existing LED bulb, which is only 3 months old.
On a sidenote, one of my clips on my plastic covers broke, so I asked the parts guy how much. $20 for a piece of clear plastic!!!
Ya gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,169
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From: HK (but constantly travelling)
98 W210 Advantgarde
Originally Posted by C-2
Thanks for the offer of help sanjm23.
On a sidenote, one of my clips on my plastic covers broke, so I asked the parts guy how much. $20 for a piece of clear plastic!!!
Ya gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere
On a sidenote, one of my clips on my plastic covers broke, so I asked the parts guy how much. $20 for a piece of clear plastic!!!
Ya gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Riverside, CA
98 E320
Originally Posted by Whitey
now I can simply change my bulbs without removing the lining...
Simply remove the 3 screw bar and your in business.
Thanks for your responses earlier in this thread on the dash LED's and AMG questions.
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 1
From: Sydney, Australia
2008 C300 Avantgarde
OFF Topic: Hey Whitey, please clear your inbox...it's full so can't PM you. Also please disregard last PM, as i hadn't edit it properly before sending. New PM awaiting to be sent.
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'08 CL600 with 152k km; '01 E430 4Matic with 433k km; '17 Porsche Cayenne with 130k km
I am sure as to the reason for all the pre-mature LED failures are due to the overheating from the high current. I installed my LEDs about a month ago, and one of them blew out. So, the next thing I did was install the resistor (100ohm 10W I think) and then the one that didn't have the resistor hooked in parallel blew out. If we put resistors on both festoons, this will have a longer life. This is my ongoing theory. I will put the resistors on and will let you guys know. I'll also have a picture, if I can get my camera from a person that is borrowing it.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Riverside, CA
98 E320
Originally Posted by ghaffar23
I am sure as to the reason for all the pre-mature LED failures are due to the overheating from the high current. I installed my LEDs about a month ago, and one of them blew out. So, the next thing I did was install the resistor (100ohm 10W I think) and then the one that didn't have the resistor hooked in parallel blew out. If we put resistors on both festoons, this will have a longer life. This is my ongoing theory. I will put the resistors on and will let you guys know. I'll also have a picture, if I can get my camera from a person that is borrowing it.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,169
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From: HK (but constantly travelling)
98 W210 Advantgarde
Originally Posted by C-2
I had resistors on both Festoons ~ so back to the drawing board
Although there isn't a lot of heat from the resistors, try soldering a lenth of electrical wire to both prongs of the resistors so that you can place them away from the bulbs and the cover (I have mine stuck onto the inside of the panel of the trunk cover, well away from everything else) - this will help reduce the heat around the bulbs and will probably save your light covers from deterioration over time - mine's worked fine after I changed the festoons. Good luck.
Last edited by Whitey; Aug 26, 2006 at 12:17 PM.
Super Member
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'08 CL600 with 152k km; '01 E430 4Matic with 433k km; '17 Porsche Cayenne with 130k km
Originally Posted by C-2
I had resistors on both Festoons ~ so back to the drawing board
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 96
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From: Riverside, CA
98 E320
And guess what - now the other Festoon is blinking. Soldered connections, tight fittings, resistor on each Festoon, Festoon is away from the bulb and housing. Dunno what it is.
no clue
- any other calcs - is the resistor too small?
no clue
- any other calcs - is the resistor too small?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,169
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From: HK (but constantly travelling)
98 W210 Advantgarde
Originally Posted by C-2
And guess what - now the other Festoon is blinking. Soldered connections, tight fittings, resistor on each Festoon, Festoon is away from the bulb and housing. Dunno what it is.
no clue
- any other calcs - is the resistor too small?
no clue
- any other calcs - is the resistor too small?
Technically (Ok, I'm no electronics whiz but purely from experience messing with them), resistors hooked up in parallel do not affect the amount of voltage going into the bulbs (possibly the amppage might be affected? no_clue, anyone?).
As no_clue had said, the durability of the festoons in this case depends very much on the quality and build of the festoons themselves. In an earlier discussion, we concluded that the voltage put out by the car's electrical system fluctuates (you can see this on your on board diagnostics, in fact, the voltage is usually more than 13V), sometimes (though momentarily) much higher than 13V. Therefore, if the festoons are built to withstand up to 12V only, they will fail prematurely...if they are built with a bit more tolerance, then they are unlikely to fail under the fluctuating power supply. Unfortunately these festoons are typically spec'd 12V, so there's no way of telling whether they will withstand the max power put put out by the car...other than trying a number of brands.
Meanwhile, thanks to V8 AMG for giving me the headsup on the LED citylight mod and bearing with me on my exploring the best resistor
...here's my mod for under 6 bucks - (despite the pic) much brighter than the stock H6W bulbs and of course, pure white .....(N.B. the bluish hue is mostly from the pure white light picking up the grey sides of the light housing ) 
Last edited by Whitey; Aug 29, 2006 at 10:30 AM.
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 1
From: Sydney, Australia
2008 C300 Avantgarde
Very nice and clean looking Whitey ! Well done...
Originally Posted by Whitey
The 100ohm/10W resistors are just right - together with a functioning LED festoon the consumption is just enough to fool the computer, whilst in the absence of a fully functional festoon, the light out warnings will work.
Technically (Ok, I'm no electronics whiz but purely from experience messing with them), resistors hooked up in parallel do not affect the amount of voltage going into the bulbs (possibly the amppage might be affected? no_clue, anyone?).
As no_clue had said, the durability of the festoons in this case depends very much on the quality and build of the festoons themselves. In an earlier discussion, we concluded that the voltage put out by the car's electrical system fluctuates (you can see this on your on board diagnostics, in fact, the voltage is usually more than 13V), sometimes (though momentarily) much higher than 13V. Therefore, if the festoons are built to withstand up to 12V only, they will fail prematurely...if they are built with a bit more tolerance, then they are unlikely to fail under the fluctuating power supply. Unfortunately these festoons are typically spec'd 12V, so there's no way of telling whether they will withstand the max power put put out by the car...other than trying a number of brands.
Meanwhile, thanks to V8 AMG for giving me the headsup on the LED citylight mod and bearing with me on my exploring the best resistor ...here's my mod for under 6 bucks - (despite the pic) much brighter than the stock H6W bulbs and of course, pure white .....(N.B. the bluish hue is mostly from the pure white light picking up the grey sides of the light housing )
Technically (Ok, I'm no electronics whiz but purely from experience messing with them), resistors hooked up in parallel do not affect the amount of voltage going into the bulbs (possibly the amppage might be affected? no_clue, anyone?).
As no_clue had said, the durability of the festoons in this case depends very much on the quality and build of the festoons themselves. In an earlier discussion, we concluded that the voltage put out by the car's electrical system fluctuates (you can see this on your on board diagnostics, in fact, the voltage is usually more than 13V), sometimes (though momentarily) much higher than 13V. Therefore, if the festoons are built to withstand up to 12V only, they will fail prematurely...if they are built with a bit more tolerance, then they are unlikely to fail under the fluctuating power supply. Unfortunately these festoons are typically spec'd 12V, so there's no way of telling whether they will withstand the max power put put out by the car...other than trying a number of brands.
Meanwhile, thanks to V8 AMG for giving me the headsup on the LED citylight mod and bearing with me on my exploring the best resistor
...here's my mod for under 6 bucks - (despite the pic) much brighter than the stock H6W bulbs and of course, pure white .....(N.B. the bluish hue is mostly from the pure white light picking up the grey sides of the light housing ) 
Almost a Member!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 70
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From: nyc
E320 2000
Hi
could one of you guys post how to fix those damn yellow citylights
so i dont have to cringe everytime i look at them.
Blue or white would be a great change
Not sure how or what to buy to change them to LED's
Thanks for any info
could one of you guys post how to fix those damn yellow citylights
so i dont have to cringe everytime i look at them.
Blue or white would be a great change
Not sure how or what to buy to change them to LED's
Thanks for any info
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 191
Likes: 1
From: Richardson, TX
'04 Cobra & '04 S430
Okay guys - here's the deal. The LED has a set voltage that it will drop - be it 3V or 4V or whatever. The LED is set - and it will not change (unless the supplied voltage is less than what it is rated at, and that is a different issue). The resistors are there to drop the remainder of the voltage, and control the current. LEDS are burned out typically in two ways - you drop too much voltage through them (such as hooking it up straight without a resistor) or there is much more current going through it than what it is rated to handle (in other words, the resistance of the resistor is too low). Remember also that LEDS flow current (typically) in only one direction. If the bulb doesn't light up, try pugging it in by swapping it around.
So, lets use an example. Lets say that the LED is rated at 4V. If the car is putting out 13V, then the LED will use 4V of that, an the remaining 9V will be dropped on the resistor. If the car for whatever reason goes up to 16V, then 4V will still be dropped on the LED, and the remaining 12V will go to the resistors.
As for the current part, if the LED gets less current, it will be dimmer, but LEDs do not change color with less current as normal bulbs do. My recommendation would be to ensure you run a slightly lower current based on the current rating the LED is designed for.
I hope this kind of helps understand how it works a little better.
So, lets use an example. Lets say that the LED is rated at 4V. If the car is putting out 13V, then the LED will use 4V of that, an the remaining 9V will be dropped on the resistor. If the car for whatever reason goes up to 16V, then 4V will still be dropped on the LED, and the remaining 12V will go to the resistors.
As for the current part, if the LED gets less current, it will be dimmer, but LEDs do not change color with less current as normal bulbs do. My recommendation would be to ensure you run a slightly lower current based on the current rating the LED is designed for.
I hope this kind of helps understand how it works a little better.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,169
Likes: 2
From: HK (but constantly travelling)
98 W210 Advantgarde
Originally Posted by Huachipato
Okay guys - here's the deal. The LED has a set voltage that it will drop - be it 3V or 4V or whatever. The LED is set - and it will not change (unless the supplied voltage is less than what it is rated at, and that is a different issue). The resistors are there to drop the remainder of the voltage, and control the current. LEDS are burned out typically in two ways - you drop too much voltage through them (such as hooking it up straight without a resistor) or there is much more current going through it than what it is rated to handle (in other words, the resistance of the resistor is too low). Remember also that LEDS flow current (typically) in only one direction. If the bulb doesn't light up, try pugging it in by swapping it around.
So, lets use an example. Lets say that the LED is rated at 4V. If the car is putting out 13V, then the LED will use 4V of that, an the remaining 9V will be dropped on the resistor. If the car for whatever reason goes up to 16V, then 4V will still be dropped on the LED, and the remaining 12V will go to the resistors.
As for the current part, if the LED gets less current, it will be dimmer, but LEDs do not change color with less current as normal bulbs do. My recommendation would be to ensure you run a slightly lower current based on the current rating the LED is designed for.
I hope this kind of helps understand how it works a little better.
So, lets use an example. Lets say that the LED is rated at 4V. If the car is putting out 13V, then the LED will use 4V of that, an the remaining 9V will be dropped on the resistor. If the car for whatever reason goes up to 16V, then 4V will still be dropped on the LED, and the remaining 12V will go to the resistors.
As for the current part, if the LED gets less current, it will be dimmer, but LEDs do not change color with less current as normal bulbs do. My recommendation would be to ensure you run a slightly lower current based on the current rating the LED is designed for.
I hope this kind of helps understand how it works a little better.
What I meant by differing colors is that LED bulbs come in different colours - some claimed white LEDs actually have different hues and even a pair in a package might vary in color - I had to swap 3 pairs before I managed to get a matching pair.
