Brake Question
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Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 191
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From: Richardson, TX
'04 Cobra & '04 S430
Brake Question
I changed my brake pads on Saturday. One pad that was in there wore down all the way causing some metal on metal contact on the rotor (mainly on the lips that show up on the edge of the rotors). The pad, obviously, was the outside pad that did not have a sensor on it, so I never saw an error message on the dash. The inside pad with the sensor still barely had enough pad material left on it to not cause the warning light to go on.
Anyways, I wanted to remove the rotors to have them measure to make sure they were still good, but I have trouble getting them off. I saw the hub cover there, but assumed that did not need to be removed. I removed the hex screw, and pounded the rotor with a rubber mallet a few times, but didn't notice it budged at all. Is there something else that needs to be removed after the little hex screw or did I just need to pound it harder?
As far as I could tell, there were no obvious grooves on the rotor, just the missing "lips" from were the 1 pad was worn down to almost nothing (I'll take a picture and post later, cause this was pretty bad). The other 3 pads still had pad material on it.
Anyways, I wanted to remove the rotors to have them measure to make sure they were still good, but I have trouble getting them off. I saw the hub cover there, but assumed that did not need to be removed. I removed the hex screw, and pounded the rotor with a rubber mallet a few times, but didn't notice it budged at all. Is there something else that needs to be removed after the little hex screw or did I just need to pound it harder?
As far as I could tell, there were no obvious grooves on the rotor, just the missing "lips" from were the 1 pad was worn down to almost nothing (I'll take a picture and post later, cause this was pretty bad). The other 3 pads still had pad material on it.
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From: Arizona, USA
W205 C300
The rotors come off hard. I used a piece of all thread and some nuts and washers and put it through one of the lug bolt holes so that it was up against something solid behind the rotor. Then I double nutted the end and cranked on it. When it popped off the hub it made a loud bang. I could not have just tapped it off with a mallet. It was almost welded on at the hub because of the heat during braking.
If your rotors have been turned once before of if you have changed pads once before, it is time to replace them. Otherwise they may warp from the heat.
Sounds like your calipers are not moving smoothly and you are getting more pressure on one pad than the other. Be sure and put brake grease on the sliding parts.
If your rotors have been turned once before of if you have changed pads once before, it is time to replace them. Otherwise they may warp from the heat.
Sounds like your calipers are not moving smoothly and you are getting more pressure on one pad than the other. Be sure and put brake grease on the sliding parts.
Last edited by E-Klasse; Jul 10, 2006 at 09:38 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 191
Likes: 1
From: Richardson, TX
'04 Cobra & '04 S430
I like that idea a lot. I was thinking that pounding it too much may have caused the alignment to go off as well, so the screw idea is a great one. You screwed it where the "hex" screw was, right?
Thanks for the tip E-Klasse - it is very helpful.
Thanks for the tip E-Klasse - it is very helpful.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Arizona, USA
W205 C300
I went trough one of the holes for the lug bolts so that I could use a larger all thead. The hex screw is kind of small. You could use a long bolt that is just smaller than a lug bolt. Put a nut and washer on the back side of the rotor.
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From: SF Bay Area, CA
2006 E55 and 2002 E320
I was always wondering. The E320 in the family went in for a brake job at around 33,000 miles and had all brake pads and rotors completely replaced. While the dealer did tell me that the brake rotors were "replaced", I was wondering how one can tell if the rotors are only replaced or resurfaced (I'm thinking the dealer cut some corners to increase their profit margin).
Now, when I saw the car after the pads and rotors had been replaced, the rotors looked liked it had this circular criss cross pattern on them. Could this possibly mean that they were resurfaced instead of replaced?
Now, when I saw the car after the pads and rotors had been replaced, the rotors looked liked it had this circular criss cross pattern on them. Could this possibly mean that they were resurfaced instead of replaced?
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From: Arizona, USA
W205 C300
Actually to cut down on the weight the rotors are not designed to have enough thickness to be machined down a few times. If you can go just replace the pads on the first brake job and then the rotors and pads on the second, you are doing good. A lot of times when just the pads are replaced, the rotors get thin and warp and end up having to be replaced anyway. If this were to happen with half the pad life left, you would end up replacing the pads again. If you were to replace them both each time, it is not a whole lot of money unless the brake shop rips you off. For the front, a set of pads are like $40 and rotors $80. If you did them yourself you would save the labor. The back brakes should last you twice as long as the fronts. Inspect them when you do the fronts for the first time.
The rew rotors should be cleaned of the material that they are packed in to prevent them from rusting. Brake shops may machine them slightly so they have a better surface. So don't be shocked if they look machined.
The rew rotors should be cleaned of the material that they are packed in to prevent them from rusting. Brake shops may machine them slightly so they have a better surface. So don't be shocked if they look machined.
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From: SF Bay Area, CA
2006 E55 and 2002 E320
My dealer charges me $900+ for a brake job. Took the E320 in at 33k miles and had all the brakes, in all four corners changed. Pads, rotors, front, rear, everything.
I looked at the parts and they don't seem to be that expensive (I think it was less than $400 for parts), seems like the dealer is charging an arm and a leg for labour. What are other people on this forum paying?
I looked at the parts and they don't seem to be that expensive (I think it was less than $400 for parts), seems like the dealer is charging an arm and a leg for labour. What are other people on this forum paying?
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John Deere
Patrick, what you paid is common for a dealer brake job...$400+ for parts and $400 for labor, maybe even for just the fronts (rears last a looooong time). This is the book rate for a brake job in terms of time required. As we learn, the actual time is much less. Quality brake parts may be found on the internet for much less, so the question becomes what you want to do with the labor. Find a shop that will let you "bring the steak to the restaurant" at their normal labor rate, or do it yourself. As a general rule, if you do all 4 corners yourself, figure $400 for all four rotos and pads + your time.
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From: SF Bay Area, CA
2006 E55 and 2002 E320
Alright, just making sure that I'm not paying more than what anyone else is paying.
They told me that I had to change the rears as well at 33k miles. I think it was slightly premature.
They told me that I had to change the rears as well at 33k miles. I think it was slightly premature.
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John Deere
I changed the fronts at around 40k miles, and again at 90k miles. I don't recall if I had the rears done the first time. So they are either currently 55k or 95k miles on the rears, and still not dead. 33k is the recommendation by a mechanic who has a boat payment coming up.
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From: SF Bay Area, CA
2006 E55 and 2002 E320
I had a warning message that said the front pads needed to be changed, the message came up at around 32k miles and I went in at around 33k miles.
Possibly the car is driven in too much traffic.
I agree with you on the rears though, normally the rears should last a bit longer. I'll make a bigger deal of it the next time I'm at the dealership.
Possibly the car is driven in too much traffic.
I agree with you on the rears though, normally the rears should last a bit longer. I'll make a bigger deal of it the next time I'm at the dealership.
