I have lost a large amount of torque and with these forums, came to the conclusion that it might be a dirty MAF sensor.

I have read throughout the forums that the MAF sensor "CAN" be cleaned, but most people just replace it. I saw some DIY's But not DIY's with pictures. Can someone post a DIY with pictures on either how to clean or how to replace? Any would be very helpful and thanks.

 

Go here - http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?PN=05110&S=Y

 

Thank you, can that be something bought at pep-boys? Does it really work? Also, just curious, but how does an oil change (which comes with the filter change) relate to the MAF sensor? I have not gotten an oil change in 3500 miles, maybe that would make the difference?

 

Yes

Yes , and the oil change ( lack of ) would have minimal effect on the performance.

 

Thanks C43! Also, what part of the MAF sensor do I spray?

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...Air+Mass+Meter

Sorry for all of the questions, I don't know much about these softa things :$

 

When you pull the MAF sensor you will see the insert in the inside of the tube.This piece comes out and you follow the directions on the can , very easy. Good luck and post your results.

 

Thanks C43 I'll get to it.

 

...............

 

Okay, I went to pep boys and purchased the MAF sensor cleaner. I then followed these directions in which I found with the search function

"Changing the MAF is one of the easiest things to do on my 97 E320. It's probably easier to actually do than to describe on a forum, but here goes...

Open the hood, the release is under the steering wheel near where your left knee would be. Once you pop the hood release, there is a tab that comes out of the grill, pull that and lift the hood.

Now you're looking into the engine compartment...

Behind the left headlight, in the front left of the compartment, you'll see a plastic box with clips on it, about the size of a big hard cover book. This is the air filter. (if you ever felt the desire to change this on your own, just unclip, lift the cover off and replace).

Coming off the air filter housing is a tube that's around 2-3 inches across that leads back/top of the engine head. This tube is the air intake that feeds air into the fuel injector.

The MAF is that attachment on this tube that is around 6 inches away from the air filter housing. It has a wire with a clip that attaches to it on the right side. Here's what it looks like.
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com...Air+Mass+Meter

Now unhooking it is fairly straightforward, I'm not in front of my car now so I can't remember if it's clips that can just be unhooked or if you'll need a screwdriver for a screw type clamp... You'll also need to pull that wire off, just grab both locking tabs and pull it out.

Now just insert the new MAF just as the old one was. Note before taking the old one out what position it's in so you don't do it backwards. Reclamp, the MAF back to both sides of the air intake tube, reclip the wire to the MAF, and you're done."

By Smazur^^^

Here are some pictures I took for confirmation. Now, the instructions on the bottle tell me that I am supposed to spray the wires when they are hot..? How does that work out?





Also, as shown above, that screw looks weird. I don't know how to take it out. Wow, i'm feeling dumb haha

 

You need a Torx screw driver to remove it.As far as it being hot , the motor should have been run for a little bit prior to removing.

 

Bah, I missed a step. It says I need T-20 TORX tool. I'm going to go to pepboys and try to find this thing. Ok, thanks c43, Ill be back in 5 minutes.

 

Okay, I took the censor out of the other tube and sprayed it down with the cleaner. I'll wait a bit before assembling again.

 

Hmm, I still don't see an improvement. It still is accelerating at about the same rate. What else could be the problem? Did I spray the right part of the MAF? Or is it supposed to go 0-60 in 9 seconds -.-

 

Take it out for a spin - give the engine computer a chance to make the necessary adjustments.

 

Yea, there is an improvement, but not much. When I cleaned the MAF sensor, next to no dirt came out since it was already basically clean.

 

How about some more info on the car - mileage , last time air/fuel filters were serviced , have you tried any injector cleaner in the fuel tank , how old are the plgs/wires etc.

 

Okay, here is a brief history of the car. Before I got it, the car was garaged for 3 years. As soon as I had gotten the car, I gave it a synthetic oil change and replaced some of the other fluids as well. The car has 162,000 miles on it, last oil change/filter change was 4500 miles ago. The plugs must be over 3-4 years old because I never replaced them since I got it. I do not know what injector cleaner is so I have not ever used that either.

 

Here's the link to the fuel additive : http://www.redlineoil.com/products_fueladditives.asp

I would seriously consider doing the following - just so you know where you stand : new air filter,new fuel filter,new plugs and possibly new wires.I know this sounds like alot, but with that mileage and age you have no idea about the previous maintenance on the vehicle.I would also get the tranny "flushed" not just serviced.You have to establish a baseline with this vehicle before you can move forward with troubleshooting the performance issues that arise.

 

I forgot to mention that I did flush the vehicle's tranny. I also forgot to mention that this was my parents old car, but they were not great on maintaining it. The fuel filter comes with an oil change correct? And shouldn't I have already gotten an oil change? How long do you wait in between oil changes?

Also, for the air filter, does a some kind of check engine light come on when it needs to be changed? I have no check engine lights on right now.

Also, what do you mean by new wires? And can I change all of the spark plugs myself?

 

I will go pick up the bottle of fuel additive later once I fill my tank of gas completely.

 

No.

I would say yes.

3,000........or 5k if you use synthetic

No, I would suggest that you change it, based upon all the info you gave me.

Spark plug wires.Wether or not you can change them yourself is really up to your mechanical ability.

 

Well, as you can see, i'm not the best with mechanics, so I guess I won't change the spark plugs myself. As for the air filter, should I go with K & N or stick with the OEM. How much do you think it should cost for new air filter, fuel filter, and new spark plugs?

 

$100.00 or less for all the above.

try this link for those parts : http://www.performanceproducts.com/D...=MERCEDES-BENZ

 

Thanks C43 for everything. You have been a HUGE help

 

You're welcome , that's what we're here for! Please post updates to let me now how everything turned out.