Shaking Steering Wheel
specifications, ie just outside the envelope. if you've introduced more rake, it
will have shifted the COG forward and put more forward bias....all in all, changing
the balance of nature vis a vis, your suspension. did you get it aligned after
the lowering job?
specifications, ie just outside the envelope. if you've introduced more rake, it
will have shifted the COG forward and put more forward bias....all in all, changing
the balance of nature vis a vis, your suspension. did you get it aligned after
the lowering job?
Iv'e been in another lowered w210 which is lowered even more than mine and it doesn't do this.
- motor mounts (rev in neutral and note changes), firm braking at speed (note
changes), firm acceleration (note vibration).....any clues here?
- you didn't rotate or stagger tires, did you?
- you've eliminated MAF type...fuel induced, vacuum leak,etc vibration and
pretty sure it's suspension/steering, yes?
coincidental that this shaking occured now, yes, but time bombs do go off for
older cars. i just lowered my car (you embarrassed me enough, Nate
), new smartkey arrived, and all on same day, car battery died a final death. eh...$h1t
happens.
I would have to bring it to a dealer, that's my last resort.
"- motor mounts (rev in neutral and note changes), firm braking at speed (note
changes), firm acceleration (note vibration).....any clues here?"
Hmm, what do you mean by note changes?
"- you didn't rotate or stagger tires, did you?"
My tires are not staggered, and have not been rotated yet.
"- you've eliminated MAF type...fuel induced, vacuum leak,etc vibration and
pretty sure it's suspension/steering, yes?"
I'm preety sure it's the suspension/steering. That's where I feel the shaking from and besides, this happened after mucking with the suspension.
"coincidental that this shaking occured now, yes, but time bombs do go off for
older cars. i just lowered my car (you embarrassed me enough, Nate ), new
smartkey arrived, and all on same day, car battery died a final death. eh...$h1t
happens. "
haha, you actually lowered the car Raymond! I bet your car looks really nice now

So, most likely, it is probably the ball joints. But then on the other hand, if i take it to a dealer, they will probably blame it on the springs and say that they will not work on it since it isn't factory.
on a side note, how does your car ride at high speeds? how far did you drop it?
I'd also verify the roundness of your front tires AND wheels.
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So we came to the conclusion that it is the ball joints. But, I also have a some negative camber on the back wheels. Not much, but the negative camber came when I lowered it. Does that have anything to do with it? Will the ball joints fix the vibration AND the popping?
Thanks again for all of your input.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

Okay, i just buttoned things up after lowering (just completed today), gave it a
look over and took it out for a test ride. Definitely feel the spring rate difference.
Where the stock shocks/springs gave a plush boat ride, I'm now riding on
Bilsteins and Vogtlands. The ride now is like a taunt rubber band instead of
one loosely tensioned. Expansion joints are felt in the soles of my shoes and
butt and clearly heard...whereas before, they existed just as a cush and distant
ba-dump sound and easily ignored. Then again, it rolled like the Titanic as well.
It was raining so I didn't try to push it. Took it on a 20 mile jaunt through some
wide sweepers and straight ahead at quick 85 bursts. Absolutely no abnormal
vibrations, shaking, or suspension undulations. Steering was solid, ride firm.
One+ finger gap front and rear. We'll see how it settles. I may give it a
scootch of rake in front.
Also, are you using OEM MB or after-market wheels?
Did you upgrade to sport shocks?
Also, are you using OEM MB or after-market wheels?
Did you upgrade to sport shocks?
1) Are the wheels hubcentric for MB? Basically do they fit snugly on the hub before you tighten the bolts?
2) Are you using Hub Spacers?
Try these 2 suggestions (they are both free).
A) Jack the car and loosen and re-tighten the bolts in a star pattern. Drive around and see if the vibrations start.
If that doesn't work then...
B) Put your stock wheels back on and drive around and see if the vibrations start. Doing this will confirm or deny that the aftermarket wheels are the problem.
1) Are the wheels hubcentric for MB? Basically do they fit snugly on the hub before you tighten the bolts?
2) Are you using Hub Spacers?
Try these 2 suggestions (they are both free).
A) Jack the car and loosen and re-tighten the bolts in a star pattern. Drive around and see if the vibrations start.
If that doesn't work then...
B) Put your stock wheels back on and drive around and see if the vibrations start. Doing this will confirm or deny that the aftermarket wheels are the problem.
Oh my god, I think you might be right. When I was buying the rims, they told me that they had to re drill them a bit because they were slightly off, they weren't exactly 5x112. I thought nothing at first, but now i realize that that could be the problem.. On the other hand, it was not vibrating at that point. It only started vibrating after lowering. I'm going to try and loosen and re-tigthen the bolts like you said tomorrow in a star pattern. I do not have hub spacers. Wait, also will this also solve the "pop" sound? Doesn't that actually confirm the bad ball joints?
On a side note, i just sold my stock wheels a week ago
Last edited by OldNate; Feb 12, 2007 at 01:41 AM.
On a side note, i just sold my stock wheels a week ago

They will NEVER be right. Period. They will cause nothing but drama.
I don't know how much money you have, but I'd say at least get some stock wheels that fit properly on your car so you can at least drive it around. Maybe try a junk yard. W208 CLK stock wheels will fit your car, too.
And another thing, sport springs ride at a different height and rebound at a faster rate than the shocks are designed for. Therefore your shocks will blow out in around 5,000 miles or less. Be prepared for that (meaning save your money for replacement sport shocks + labor charges). This happens on any car with sport springs on stock shocks.
That poping sound is probably your bolts moving around and settling into the bolt holes of the rims (which is something they should NOT do.)
I'd bet if you took the wheels off you'd find some metal shavings and wear in the bolt holes of the wheel.
But then I got in an accident on the way home from the rim shop. The guy ahead of me slammed on his brakes and started skidding. So I slammed on mine but couldn't avoid him and crashed. Now my front end is ****ed up
I feel like **** right now 
But then I got in an accident on the way home from the rim shop. The guy ahead of me slammed on his brakes and started skidding. So I slammed on mine but couldn't avoid him and crashed. Now my front end is ****ed up
I feel like **** right now 

Well, as the saying goes, "It could have been much worse."
Maybe make a post asking for a good body shop in your area. Also, call MB and ask them which shop they use.
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