an AC dilemma
Any suggestions?Leon
Run all the diagnostics described on this page:
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic40142.html
Post here all your results from the diagnostics... sensor values, error codes, and flap test results. Also please post your estimate of the outside and in-cabin temperatures when you ran the test.
I (and others I'm sure) be happy to take a look at the results to see if there's something obvious.
Run all the diagnostics described on this page:
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic40142.html
Post here all your results from the diagnostics... sensor values, error codes, and flap test results. Also please post your estimate of the outside and in-cabin temperatures when you ran the test.
I (and others I'm sure) be happy to take a look at the results to see if there's something obvious.
Run all the diagnostics described on this page:
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic40142.html
Post here all your results from the diagnostics... sensor values, error codes, and flap test results. Also please post your estimate of the outside and in-cabin temperatures when you ran the test.
I (and others I'm sure) be happy to take a look at the results to see if there's something obvious.
Sensor 1: 27
Sensor 2: E
Sensor 3: 14
Sensor 4: 13
Sensor 5: 14
Sensor 6: 77
Sensor 7: 14
Sensor 8: 53
Erroe code: B1227 (only code that came up)
After running the values and error code through "EclassBenz.com" I got this
as an explanation.
"# Your climate control data has been received.
# Your sensor values were automatically converted from Celsius to Fahrenheit. All temperatures on this page are given in Fahrenheit and pressure in bar unless otherwise noted.
# Your evaporator temperature sensor appears to be malfunctioning. Usually a bad evaporator temperature sensor is indicated by code B1230. Your car does not indicate this code. However, a bad evaporator sensor does not always trigger the code. The sensor reports a temperature of 57.2 degrees. The outside air is only 32 degrees. It's impossible for your evaporator temperature to be that much warmer than the ambient air. When the evaporator temp sensor reports a value like this (and nothing else is out of spec), your A/C should run for 10 minutes after starting the car and then automatically switch off. It does this is to protect the evaporator from freeze damage. The climate control system carefully regulates the evaporator temperature to make sure it does not drop below 33 degrees. If the temperature drops below 33, the moisture in the air may freeze and damage the evaporator. When the temperature sensor stops working correctly, the climate control system cannot tell whether the evaporator is too cold. It then shuts off to protect the system.'
# Code B1227 Explanation: This sensor measures the temperature outside your car. It is reporting an implausible temperature.
# We hope that this diagnosis tool helped you solve your air conditioning problem and maybe even saved you a bunch of money. If you found it helpful, and would like to say "thank you," please consider making a contribution."
I Think that "middle" paragraph explains why shortly after turning on the AC, the middle vents stop blowing.
Tell me what you guys think...easy fix?????
Last edited by Down South; Jun 25, 2007 at 08:55 PM.
I suspect replacing the outside climate control temperature sensor will fix your air conditioner. Of course I can't be entirely sure; it's possible that the effect of the bad sensor is masking some other problem.
I suspect replacing the outside climate control temperature sensor will fix your air conditioner. Of course I can't be entirely sure; it's possible that the effect of the bad sensor is masking some other problem.
Last edited by Down South; Jun 25, 2007 at 11:29 PM.
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, I personally would replace the outside temp sensor first before replacing other parts. No need to replace two sensors if only one is causing the problem! Sorry, don't know the part numbers.
Last edited by lexrex; Jun 26, 2007 at 01:24 AM.
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AllData doesn't list the location for the HVAC ambient temp sensor. I'll check some other sources.
Leon
good luck
ohlord
good luck
ohlord
good luck
ohlord
good luck
ohlord
Edit: I just went outside to run the codes again...the only one that came up was b1227
Last edited by Down South; Jun 27, 2007 at 07:27 PM.
There are two sensors for outside temp.You replaced the one that indicates the temp on the dash.The other on goes to the a/c system and that looks like the failed part.Do what the boss man(lexrex) says and replace that first,run tests again and clear code.If it reads in range and the code is gone you should be going cold again.If not then replace the evap sensor and repeat.Mine showed the same code plus the sun sensor code and a few others.replacing the evap sensor cleared all the codes except one and that cleared with the reset function.
Hope you have the same luck.
ohlord
autohausaz.com has them for much less than the dealer and if you are over 50 bucks they ship free so i had them throw in a air filter and oil filter and it still was less then the dealer.
There are two sensors for outside temp.You replaced the one that indicates the temp on the dash.The other on goes to the a/c system and that looks like the failed part.Do what the boss man(lexrex) says and replace that first,run tests again and clear code.If it reads in range and the code is gone you should be going cold again.If not then replace the evap sensor and repeat.Mine showed the same code plus the sun sensor code and a few others.replacing the evap sensor cleared all the codes except one and that cleared with the reset function.
Hope you have the same luck.
ohlord
autohausaz.com has them for much less than the dealer and if you are over 50 bucks they ship free so i had them throw in a air filter and oil filter and it still was less then the dealer.
Stats are in "again"
just went outside and ran another diagnostic test
sensor 1: 23
sensor 2: 40
sensor 3: 13
sensor 4: 12
sensor 5: 15
sensor 6: 84
sensor 7: 15
sensor 8: 57
error code: b1227
After running the test on "EclassBenz.com" again, this is what it said this time....
"# Your climate control data has been received.
# Your A/C system is working properly. The evaporator temperature is 15 degrees.
# If your problem is air flow, rather than air temperature, it's likely that your blower regulator went bad.
# Code B1227 Explanation: This sensor measures the temperature outside your car. It is reporting an implausible temperature.
# We hope that this diagnosis tool helped you solve your air conditioning problem and maybe even saved you a bunch of money. If you found it helpful, and would like to say "thank you," please consider making a contribution."
Now what

what's the other part number/location of the other temp sensor for the AC that you mentioned so I can replace it?
Last edited by Down South; Jun 27, 2007 at 11:02 PM.
The sensor values indicate that at the time you ran the test, it was 104 degrees outside and the air blowing out of the vents was 55 degrees. Does that seem right to you? 55 degree A/C with the car running parked on a hot day is not really cause for concern.
I noticed that your refrigerant pressure is 15. I don't know what units it's using. Most W210s report pressure in units of bar and temperature in fahrenheit rather than psi and centigrade... If that's 15 bar, that's good. If that's 15 psi, that's really low. If you turn the fan speed to about 3 or 4, do you hear a strong hissing noise from the center vents, which would indicate low refrigerant?
Can you get a passenger to record the values while you're driving and the vents start misbehaving?
The air routing problem may be in the control unit or the flap valve actuator. Try this: Put the system in AUTO mode on both sides. Drop the temperature to LO on both sides. What happens?
Last edited by lexrex; Jun 28, 2007 at 12:01 AM.
The sensor values indicate that at the time you ran the test, it was 104 degrees outside and the air blowing out of the vents was 55 degrees. Does that seem right to you? 55 degree A/C with the car running parked on a hot day is not really cause for concern.
I noticed that your refrigerant pressure is 15. I don't know what units it's using. Most W210s report pressure in units of bar and temperature in fahrenheit rather than psi and centigrade... If that's 15 bar, that's good. If that's 15 psi, that's really low. If you turn the fan speed to about 3 or 4, do you hear a strong hissing noise from the center vents, which would indicate low refrigerant?
Can you get a passenger to record the values while you're driving and the vents start misbehaving?
The air routing problem may be in the control unit or the flap valve actuator. Try this: Put the system in AUTO mode on both sides. Drop the temperature to LO on both sides. What happens?
http://www.eclassbenz.com/node/27
have someone jot it down
(1-8)every 5 minutes
Then run the individual flap test at http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic40142.html
see if all your flaps are working
good luck
ohlord
Last edited by ohlord; Jun 28, 2007 at 01:22 PM.


