Whats the recommended mileage/time to change the timing chain on a W210 e320?

 

i dont' know of any cars with timing chain replacement intervals. obviously, if it starts sounding like dragging a chain across a tin can, then you better look into it. i could say that in general, a chain should go 150k-200k miles before stretching enough to be replaced.

 

Has your's started to fail or just general ?
It is a double row chain and link system unlike most with belts and the whole replace every 80tho or so.Some manf. actually do have a replacement schedule for the chain,don't have my manual handy for the 320 but since it is oiled from the inside of the timing cover and you use syn oil at the proper oil change intervals(right?)it should not be a concern for way over 150,000miles.
rest easy,then again if it is backfireing bucking and running like crap they do fail and it is a long job,not a difficult one just lots of things to r and r .the part itself is about 80bucks I think last time I replaced one on a friends car.from autohausaz.com
good luck
ohlord

 

Thanks for the info. I was concerned because my brothers BMW325 broke its belt yesterday. BMW's use belts? His car is very old with over 150k on the clock. His mechanic said his valves were bent and it would cost more to fix the engine than the cars worth. It just put a little fear into me. Glad to hear its not a justified worry as my 320 has 90k on it.

 

Typically the timing chains last to engine overhaul and are generally changed with the overhaul.

 

Mercedes has a spec to check the chain for stretching..

I Have Never seen a 112/113 engine Ever need a chain to be replaced.......Yet

On that note i Would Replace the chain tensioner seen them fail ...The Chain Tensioner is Very easy to replace!

 

Timing chains outlast timing belts for sure, thats why they do not need to be replaced as often. Ive seen mercedes go over 250k in mileage without ever replacing the timing chain or doing an engine overhaul in that case. Like Ohlord said, rest easy and enjoy your Oo = = oO.
-Leo

 

that's a shame. too many people don't know that cars need to be maintained to factory schedules or don't have them maintained by someone knowledgable in the make. at least you asked, but you really need to read the manuals that came with your car. if they didn't, then buy them.

unfortunately, as cars age, get cheaper and end up in the hands of the poorer and uninformed, too much important deferred maintenance happens. your brother's 325 motor, properly maintained, is nearly indestructable. if the body and interior are good, i would suggest having a good indie BMW mechanic fix it and make a list of deferred items. the extra work for the head job really isn't out of whack for 150k (thinking positive), but you need to do the timing belt job (including water pump, cam/crank seals,etc.) every 4 yrs anyway per BMW's schedule. look for fan clutch, driveshaft support bearing, guibo, front control arm bushings, rear subframe bushings, diff support bushing, fluids, corrosion in coolant system, rear shock mounts and a chirping noise from the blower motor in the dash (it'll start a fire! BTDT). have your brother learn what inspection 1 and inspection 2 schedules are and stick to them every 15k miles. buy a Bentley manual for the car too. it's excellent for the e30 3 series. budget $200 per month the maintain the car after this is fixed, or ship it to me!
David

 

The sound coming from my car is coming from the timing chain. I thought it may be the retaining rails but now I believe it may be the timing chain tensioner. Mark said it it very easy to do. Can someone do a DIY on it or eplain how to do it?????

 

Hello You'All, I'm in the process replacing the timing chain on a W210 025, 137k. Would someone tell me in detail how to part the links in order to attach a new chain. any help is much appreciated!

 

What's wrong with your timing chain ?

Inquiring minds want to know..

 

Use a dremel or grinder and take the ends of rollers off. Slide link apart. Do not let any shrapnel get where you don't want it. They also make chain breakers but grinding is fast and easy.

 

Used a Dremel to grind the link flush and removed the ends, as you suggested, still, the pins won't slide out. That's the frustrating part I'm in.

 

Here it is:
I’m about to change the timing chain, but before I should elaborate on what happened preciously: By drilling out a stuck glow plug I drilled into the intake. I removed the cyl. head and fixed that, and driven several thousand miles without incident. The repair didn’t last, I fixed it again and it lasted for many more miles. The car has 137K. Recently, while driving, the bolts that are holding the chain sprocket to the exhaust camshaft had come lose—one bolt completely lost, another the head sheared off and lost, the third about to fall out had it not jammed. The sprocket and chain jammed in the upper chain housing. The bolts were torqued to spec. 18Nm. Not able to rotate the engine. I removed the head and found 2 bent exhaust valves at #5 cylinder. The piston and walls showed no visible damage. Manually, the engine rotated perfectly. Considering the glow plug repair as a trouble spot I decided on a new head. I transferred all the pertinent parts from old to new, gave it a valve job, bought 2 new exhaust valves ($93). The head is on the engine and everything except camshaft cover. I bought 3 new sprocket bolts ($18). Manually rotated the engine; eventually used the starter, no problem. I put it on the timing marks, and what I noticed that nothing coincided with the old marks on sprocket and chain. It seems the chain has jumped the sprocket. Before, the timing was always within 1 degree, now it is 7 degrees, obviously some chain stretch—or? I ordered a new chain ($133 at Amazon). Now to chain replacement: I imagined it should be a straight forward job—connecting new to old and roll it through. Exactly what I did on the 220D I have in my sailboat. The new chain for the 220 came with a sliding locking link that, when the chain was through, one could easily remove and exchange it with the proper one. As of riveting, I simply placing a hammer on one side and riveted the other side (mind you that was way out in the Red Sea)—SUGESTIONS! Last, not least, I have to reset the injection pump, but that is another story. Of course, I wonder and worry about the lost bolts. I drained all the oil, and using a strong magnet I moved it all over the pan and led it to the drain hole, then used a pencil-type strong magnet all over the inside, nothing was found. Where could these suckers be? Any advise, suggestions are much appreciated!

 

If you removed all material down to the roller pin hole size it is just held in by minor remaining material. Hold with visegrip pliers and twist link apart with large, flat bladed screwdriver inserted. I hope that makes sense.

In reading the above post, nice work. More than I might try. Can you remove the oil pan to look for those bolts. I would go nuts running that engine with hardware loose inside. It IS possible they are laying on the bottom of oil pan and will never cause a problem.

 

83126 thanks for your response, finally got the chain apart and the new chain is in. The timing is dead-on. Tomorrow I will torque the camshafts down and manual rotate the crankshaft. If all is OK, the next step will be timing the pump. I will remove the vacuum pump and see whether the lower guides are OK, and maybe--maybe find something of concern. as you know, removing the oil pan is a complicated job I rather postpone for the moment. As always any suggestions are welcome.

 

Even the oil pump has metal strainer, you can read in older section how may 603 engines had seized due to owners leaving vacuum pump ***** down in the pan.
I was replacing Head Gasket on 603 engine with 293,000 miles and all the guides with timing chain look good, so I put all original back.
The car has almost 300k by now.
I also know couple of 606 engines with 300k miles on original parts.
Is the Amazon chain a MB chain, or other?

 

hi Kajtek1, the chain is an IWIS W0133-1608986-IWI--the recommended part!
Any suggestion on how to rivet the chain? I may just make myself a tool to do an effective job. I know there is a tool on the market but way too expensive to purchase for a one-time operation

 

Can't tell part quality from the number. If the package does not have MB logo on it - I would not use it.
Depends on your skills, typical way to mushroom is put heavy hammer on other side and with smaller hammer tap it around the unfinished pin to get nice mushroom.
The small hammer should be well tampered, what usually is having ball on the other end.

 

The MB dealer has a tool for that job, seldom used. Maybe they will loan it to you. Peachparts has a tool rental program.

 

I taken the chain tightener apart just to see how the thing works. Once unscrewed something catapulted out of the barrel I presume was a ball. Could it indeed be a ball? Anyone knows the size? Please help!

 

I've never seen the inside of a tensioner and don't know what else may have escaped. Best to get a new one.

 

Chain tensioner principals is that it is using oil pressure with check valve to hold it.
Check valves often have a ball as working part.

 

You are probably right, many thanks! At the moment I try removing the IP. I did it before and had no problem doing it as I recall. I removed the 3 primary bolts, 2 forward, 1 at the back. also removed the adjusting screw. Up tp now I only managed to pry it 3/8" apart. My hope, someone would read it and come up with an answer. Would much appreciate.

 

Don't you have front bolt holding sprocket?
I hope you printed WIS for the job?