ajent420

After much research here and a little extra time, I decided to get this done today. I did drop and break the camera half way through the job, so the pics start to look like crap. Hopefully this will help someone, it would have helped me so enjoy!
Now if I could just get my radio code from the dealer on a Sunday...

ADDING - 1 Amp, 1 12" Sub, and one 2-chanel LOC with remote turn on.

Step 1 - Remove the spare tire cover and the trunk liner which hides the gas tank. There are 2 squeeze clips (or what ever you want to call them) and to clips help in with a star-bit screw. All 4 fasteners are on the bottom. There are 2 clips on the top that the material can just be pulled out of. The last thing holding the rear liner in is 2 clips (One on each side) from the top in the corners. These just flip over...very easy.

Step 2 - Wrap up a power cable and a remote lead wire in some shielding...this will make it easier to fish around the car (And pretty too!!) Note that I am only running the remote lead here for later since this install is taking advantage of the remote turn on in the LOC.

Step 3 - Start to get the wrapped up cable set going through this hole. Don't worry about pushing through all the way, it just needs to get started here.

Step 4 - Remove the rear seat and undo that bolt there holding down the seat belt. Un hook the seat belt and let it retract to get it out of the way. ***TAKE NOTE HERE*** which way the seat belt fastener comes out. If you don't hook this back up the way it came out, you will have a funky twist in the seat belt.

Step 5 - Now that the seat back is loose, you can reach your hand up in there to get the wire you started from the trunk. Reach around in there and pull it through.

Step 6 - At this point I decided to run two sets of RCAs wrapped up the same way. I did this now for future stereo upgrades since this project doesn't call for it. Mind as well do this now while everything is apart.

Step 7 - These are the RCAs coiled up for later. The other wires are under the black protective covering in the battery side (you'll see later.) And yes the seat sits back down with these here no problem.

Step 8 - I found this to be the best location for an amp this size...it is kind of hard to find an even space where the screw holes mach up with metal all the way around. If I had the means, I probably would make a shelf for this here...especially if you had a multi amp set up and you really cared about what it looked like. I don't, I'm just trying to replace the terrible 6" Bose sub woofers.

Step 9 - This is where the camera broke and in a fit of rage I didn't take any pictures of removing the Bose 6" sub woofers. It's easy though. From the main cabin, remove the grills and use some elbow grease to pry those suckers up and out. Now...from here (That hole was where the sub was, those were the wires going to it) I grounded the amp and hooked up the power wire.

Step 10 - These are the wires disconnected from...how do I say this...quick disconnects where the factory subs were. I cut off the metal connectors in preparation for crimping into butt (haha) connectors to the LOC.

Step 11 - I used some sticky Velcro to secure the LOC next to the amp. Then connected the power wire and ground.

Step 12 - Plugged the quick disconnect back into the left side and crimped other wires per the instructions with the LOC. No rocket science here, just Left/Right +- all the way around.

Step 13 - Another view...I snaked the wires to the other (Right) side and did the same thing...plugged the quick disconnect back in.

Step 14 - Side shot with where I coiled up the RCAs for later.

Step 15 - Now for the battery compartment, you can see I just left it coiled up there with an in-line fuse. I plan to put in a 1.5 fared cap sometime, so for now I will just leave that (Anyone know if it's safe to secure something like to the metal by where the warning sticker is above the fuse box? I know the tranny runs through there, but is there room for a couple of screws to go through that? I'd also like to secure the cap in here if I can, but I am nervous about drilling anything in this area.)
THIS MIGHT BE A GOOD TIME TO GO HERE AND MAKE ONE OF THESE
***UPDATE*** - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...hmentid=124212 You may have to be logged in, but if you don't want to log in, just search over there under the DIY section for W210.

Step 16 - Disconnect the negative cable and place it in something...I used my oyster shucking mitt.

Step 17 - Hook up the Positive with a terminal screw piece and hook the ground back up. Place the seat back in.

Step 18 - There you have it. An added sub with an LOC with remote lead so when you turn on the radio, it turns on as well powering the amp. Now if I could just get a radio code I could test it...

Other notes -
If you didn't follow the link above, you will probably get the ABS and BES lights...your windows and everything else will not work either. I freaked out, then remembered that this place is where all the answers are! Don't panic, 5 minutes of turning steering wheels and resetting window stuff and you will be all good.

lxl_Jeffro_lxl

Wow, nice writeup....can't wait til I get my system going lol

+1 for this guy

KADE

How does it sound? Nice write up! looking to upgrade my sounds when I get a little extra cash.

dpiechoczek

very nice set up... Im considering subs... but in the mean time, I put 2 extra bose woofers in the 2 extra slots that are in the back... it sounds like I have 2 1 12" when the volume is at about 1/2 way up

Z06EATER

Great set up man, i ran a 12 in my car like 5 months ago, but u don't really need the LOC,i jus ran the remote to the back of my deck, and i crimped it with the blue n white, wire, and when i hit the power button on my deck it turns of wit the stock bose deck, try it out man, unless ur hapy tho haha A+ for u man.

Skylaw

Really nice writeup, ajent420. Great contribution to the forum - this question gets asked a lot, and the practical "how to" is often missing despite good answers as to equipment recommendations.

Sorry about your camera. I have endangered mine a number of times, and it's an expensive one.

eXpLiCitW210

good write up and illustrations dude. But you mentioned something about a link on info about resetting your window electrical system. Whats the link??
thanks!
-Leo

ghaffar23

I have been thinking about this modification, but I didn't really want to bother with it. Now that you've shown how it's done, something a little more 'all-in-one' would be an Infinity Basslink II. They put out nice bass and the amp is a 250W RMS Class D built-in via an all-in-one unit. I believe it has low- and high-level speaker inputs for easy factory integration.

Little

I had (2) 12" JL subs, the older style Diamond Hex components (before they were made in china) up front in the doors and dash, and two Zapco Studio amps for like a year. I just recently pulled everything out and put back the stock stuff. I left the factory subs in the rear deck, as i tapped into the stock amplifier. I just cut the leads going to the front speakers and the rear subs, tapped my line converter into those wires. Didn't have to run new speaker wires up to the front for the door speakers as i utilized the factory ones, but did need to run seperates for the tweeters in the dash. System sounded awesome.

Bro if you need to get a radio code, just call the dealer up with you cars VIN number and they will give you it.

jgould

Does anyone know where i can find a remote lead in the trunk of my 2004 E320. I don't want to have to run a remote lead all the way up the the stereo. It seems like with so many wires in the trunk, there should be some sort of remote lead. It doesn't have to be a stereo turn on, just connected to when the car turns on.

Also, it looks like a have a bunch of pre wired stuff in the back left of the trunk (Maybe for navigation), is there a remote lead in those wires, if so can someone tell me what color it is.

Many thanks!!!

Little

If you are going to use a line converter, get one that has signal sense built into it. If you are looking to just power up an amp whenever the car is turned on, then just tap into any 12V wire that goes hot when the ignition is turned on.