Dangerous Issue w210 1997-1999 - Spring Perch
now I am in the process of grinding all the rust and that black seal to try to well a new piece
The car is a POS. Get rid of it as soon as you can.
Not just for your wallets sake, but for your family's well being.
I've had nothing but issues w/ it. Spring perch. Transmission mis-shifting & throwing the car into neutral on the highway. (can you imagine loss of power w/ 3 kids in the back screaming?)
I had to have modules replaced etc. just awful.
On the other hand, my '89 300E runs like a boss.
Now time to unsubscribe to this site. much love.
Last edited by bad hare; Jul 29, 2012 at 09:58 AM.
The car is a POS. Get rid of it as soon as you can.
Not just for your wallets sake, but for your family's well being.
I've had nothing but issues w/ it. Spring perch. Transmission mis-shifting & throwing the car into neutral on the highway. (can you imagine loss of power w/ 3 kids in the back screaming?)
I had to have modules replaced etc. just awful.
On the other hand, my '89 300E runs like a boss.
Now time to unsubscribe to this site. much love.
I had both replaced.
Has anyone had a positive response from Mercedes?
I'm replacing some suspension and steering parts (rack and pinion unit, bushings, tie rods, ball joints- upper/lower) and knew I had to repair the passenger-side spring perch as I replaced the driver's side perch a couple of years ago. I use to have a body shop and still have all my tools so this is not a scary job for me but I can see how, at $1900 a side to repair, it could make a W210 owner faint, especially if there is a lot of rust involved. Note in the passenger side photos how large the repair hole is after the rust is cut out.
On the driver side, I had to replace the whole perch. Those photos are on photobucket as well. On the passenger side, the left side of the perch was not damaged, so I was able to cut a piece out and use three quarters of the new perch. This was extensively mig-welded to the old perch.
Too many photos to upload here (I don' want to overload the server with bandwidth) so the link to this repair and the driver-side is here: Feel free to use any of these photos or the links to explain to your mechanic or autobody guy how this job can be done. I personally would not recommend using the rivet method.
This problem is a huge MB design failure. When I got the parts and felt the thickness of the replacement perch I could not believe how paper thin they are. The springs put so much upward pressure on these they should be 5x as thick.
If you are considering doing this job yourself, PLEASE make sure you have the correct spring compression tool. I have photos of the correct type to use as this part of the repair is dangerous. Always wear safety glasses and gloves and keep your fingers out of the spring when compressing. When compressed, you will need to unbolt the lower ball joint, drop the lower control arm with a jack if need be, so the spring can drop out of the old perch if you are lucky enough to have one left.
AGAIN, I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH: PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL AND TAKE YOUR TIME. THIS CAN BE A DANGEROUS JOB without the right tools.
[updated the link to photos] Scroll down to left and right side spring perch repair folders.
http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/je...?sort=9&page=1
Last edited by jessejames4; Aug 24, 2016 at 01:08 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Its safer once those spring perches have been replaced.
http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/je...?sort=9&page=1
Who are you asking? (This thread is 3 years old (on w210s that are 17+ years old)
If you have an issue with your spring perch(es), then I would suggest you follow the repair procedure for this issue.
There are plenty of past posts regarding the process and fixes for this that you can search, read and review.
GL.







