AC Problems
When I acquired this car (98 E320) 4 years ago it had 66,000 km, very little use and the a/c was marginal, I presume it had seldom use and the system deteriorated.
I had noticed leaks of oil from the compressor and I suspect that would also leak freon. I do not believe it had dye.
If any hoses are leaking I should be able to detect that when I vacuum the system, should I not?
It appears to me I will have to flush the system before I continue.
I have read some condensers cannot be flushed and must be replaced, is that the case here?
Thanks
DougQ
I had noticed leaks of oil from the compressor and I suspect that would also leak freon. I do not believe it had dye.
If any hoses are leaking I should be able to detect that when I vacuum the system, should I not?
It appears to me I will have to flush the system before I continue.
I have read some condensers cannot be flushed and must be replaced, is that the case here?
Thanks
DougQ
The compressor very well may be the problem but with such extensive work to replace all the components, Id want to be sure there are no other areas of failure such as lines, valves. The vacuum will let you know if you cant achieve -27 inch or better but it will not direct you to where the leak is. Dye like shown in the link in the other thread above or possibly a sniffer will find others if any. The only items you can flush are the lines and evap. Condenser can not be flushed.
Oil A/C questions 98 E320 - almost ready to get this project finished.
I am replacing the comp (done), rec/dryer, and exp valve on this project.
I have flushed all of the system, and would like confirmation about the amount of oil and where to put it.
After I started this project I needed to drive the car before the A/C was functional, so I added oil to the new comp and installed it.
Obviously the clutch will not be energized as the sensors on the rec/dryer are disconnected and all hose connections covered.
Initially I removed the old comp, tried to drain oil (it had none), I also drained oil from new comp, which had very little.
Consulting a MB chart for the 210, I added 120 cc + 10 cc (rec/dryer) = 130 cc of pag oil to the comp plus a bit of UV dye I had on hand.
The charts are shown here:
https://imgur.com/a/1DZGy4q
So, after flushing the system I believe I have to add an amount of oil equivalent to installing new components.
By my calculations that is an additional 100 cc, if I am correct??
The second chart has an odd bottom line about the comp oil needed to be 20 cc??
When I first added the 130 cc to the comp I put it in the intake port and turned the shaft a few times.
The unit came with rubber plugs and caps which I re-installed.
So where should I add the additional 100 cc of oil?
Also in the intake port?
Or to the rec/dryer or the intake hose?
Is turning the comp by hand a few times sufficient?
I also found this gem on the net from a Denso web site:
Thanks for any help.
DougQ
I am replacing the comp (done), rec/dryer, and exp valve on this project.
I have flushed all of the system, and would like confirmation about the amount of oil and where to put it.
After I started this project I needed to drive the car before the A/C was functional, so I added oil to the new comp and installed it.
Obviously the clutch will not be energized as the sensors on the rec/dryer are disconnected and all hose connections covered.
Initially I removed the old comp, tried to drain oil (it had none), I also drained oil from new comp, which had very little.
Consulting a MB chart for the 210, I added 120 cc + 10 cc (rec/dryer) = 130 cc of pag oil to the comp plus a bit of UV dye I had on hand.
The charts are shown here:
https://imgur.com/a/1DZGy4q
So, after flushing the system I believe I have to add an amount of oil equivalent to installing new components.
By my calculations that is an additional 100 cc, if I am correct??
The second chart has an odd bottom line about the comp oil needed to be 20 cc??
When I first added the 130 cc to the comp I put it in the intake port and turned the shaft a few times.
The unit came with rubber plugs and caps which I re-installed.
So where should I add the additional 100 cc of oil?
Also in the intake port?
Or to the rec/dryer or the intake hose?
Is turning the comp by hand a few times sufficient?
I also found this gem on the net from a Denso web site:
Never add oil directly into the compressor, always add it to the condenser, receiver dryer or second evaporator cycle.
Of course this time of year I might not need the a/c but I need to finish this project.Thanks for any help.
DougQ
Oil A/C questions 98 E320 - almost ready to get this project finished.
So, after flushing the system I believe I have to add an amount of oil equivalent to installing new components.
By my calculations that is an additional 100 cc, if I am correct??
The second chart has an odd bottom line about the comp oil needed to be 20 cc??
When I first added the 130 cc to the comp I put it in the intake port and turned the shaft a few times.
The unit came with rubber plugs and caps which I re-installed.
So where should I add the additional 100 cc of oil?
Also in the intake port?
Or to the rec/dryer or the intake hose?
Is turning the comp by hand a few times sufficient?
DougQ
So, after flushing the system I believe I have to add an amount of oil equivalent to installing new components.
By my calculations that is an additional 100 cc, if I am correct??
The second chart has an odd bottom line about the comp oil needed to be 20 cc??
When I first added the 130 cc to the comp I put it in the intake port and turned the shaft a few times.
The unit came with rubber plugs and caps which I re-installed.
So where should I add the additional 100 cc of oil?
Also in the intake port?
Or to the rec/dryer or the intake hose?
Is turning the comp by hand a few times sufficient?
DougQ
In my case I did replace the condenser (not sure if you did) so I inserted the amount into the condenser and oil into the separate replaced components respectively-I did the dryer last after everything else was filled and closed off. Added additional for the lines into the components to compensate for lines since I flushed those. I bought a cc syringe and squirted the required amounts into the parts while they were out. It will be difficult to squirt PAG into the evaporator in place due to space. You may need to use a bendable vinyl hose from the syringe into the evaporator.
Replace and lube al O rings. Be sure you add the right amount of refrigerant by weight.
AC Problems
Has anybody run into an issue on when the heater is turned on, there is a major leak of r134a? The ac runs fine during the hot summer months, but as soon as that one day when it gets cooler, the heater turns on, all the r134a leaks out? Do you know what to look for to repair? I refilled with r134a and it’s fine but when heater is on, low in r134a again.
Finally got my A/C back up and running.
I wish to thank Plutoe, Tall Giraffe and kajtek1 for their input.
As mentioned I have replaced the comp, rec/dryer and exp valve.
That exp valve was a lot of fun, totally buried.
I managed to get the water collector out without taking out any circuit boards.
I flushed all the system and learned not to use rubber hose for that.
I flushed a lot of solvent through the evaporator before realizing I was flushing the rubber hose on the output as it disolved.
I had a little dribble of oil as I was starting to add it to the evaporator input.
So I had to guess the ammount of dribble and put it in the output, where it stayed.
The system held 30 in of HG, over night, so I was confident it would not leak.
Of course the weather is not conducive to testing A/C, but we had a very sunny day that heated up the car and cold air was experienced at all vents.
Hopefully it will be the same next summer, and of course the dehumidifying effect will help during the wet months.
DougQ
I wish to thank Plutoe, Tall Giraffe and kajtek1 for their input.
As mentioned I have replaced the comp, rec/dryer and exp valve.
That exp valve was a lot of fun, totally buried.
I managed to get the water collector out without taking out any circuit boards.
I flushed all the system and learned not to use rubber hose for that.
I flushed a lot of solvent through the evaporator before realizing I was flushing the rubber hose on the output as it disolved.
I had a little dribble of oil as I was starting to add it to the evaporator input.
So I had to guess the ammount of dribble and put it in the output, where it stayed.
The system held 30 in of HG, over night, so I was confident it would not leak.
Of course the weather is not conducive to testing A/C, but we had a very sunny day that heated up the car and cold air was experienced at all vents.
Hopefully it will be the same next summer, and of course the dehumidifying effect will help during the wet months.
DougQ
Congrats! Im sure its a great feeling to get it working. In my case I stripped one of the allen bolts in the exp. which made the journey leading to it all that more fun at the end
Also I had to go there twice since I had to replace the evaporator after a failed hope my evaporator was ok.
Im still surprised you actually flushed the condenser.
If you took your time and were thorough, you should have a long lasting system.
Also I had to go there twice since I had to replace the evaporator after a failed hope my evaporator was ok. Im still surprised you actually flushed the condenser.
If you took your time and were thorough, you should have a long lasting system.








