tbone006

Frank, I think we may have similar issue...you hear any replies yet??
All my system works except compressor not engaging ...???

Plutoe

Do yourself and others a big favor----read the forum stickies---then run the AC actual value tests(follow the procedure) and post the data----thats how to get AC help!!!!

tbone006

Well i DID look thru all the stickys first, as i do everytime i look for assistance on an issue. I didnt see anything to do with Compressor not engaging, so that is why i posted asking Frank ..as it sounded he had similar issue. I will look at Running Test notes ..but i dont have an ECU Computer or any MB specific test equipment. Sorry to "bother" you with my questions

Plutoe

First you run the fault test. Then you clear the faults. Then you run the test again


The test is a s follows:
Key in position 1
R Temp selector: Lo
L Temp selector: Hi
Within 20 seconds press the REST and EC button simultaneousy for 5 seconds
A dl R appears on the display
Press the right Auto button untill all the faults are displayed
To erase the faults---press both auto buttons at the same time for more tha 2 seconds and a d is on the left and FF is on the right

Plutoe

After you write down all the faults, then you do the actual value test!!

The actual value test is as follows:

Key in position 1
Press the auto button and set the temps for 72
Press the REST button for 5 seconds
The left display will alternately show the number 1 and the value for number 1
Press the Auto button and the next component number and its value will be displayed
Press the REST button to end the test


Post the data and you will get help!!

roguewrester

Old thread with a lot of useful info that I followed and still having a problem. I replaced my blower motor and regulator 6 months ago or so and the air ran OK for awhile. Now the blower doesn;t come on at all. I ran the codes and this is what I got:


B 1 234
B 1 416
B 1 459




1-80
2-82
3- 127
4- 127
5- 121
6- 179
7- 04
8- 94


After running the codes I added 1 can of 234. I was thinking I had a leak but the it went from 04 to 12 and stayed there over night so I added more 234. Its at 14 now and still not working. I cleared the codes prior to adding the 234 and system is still not working so I am at loss . Will old Charcoal cabin filters cause the system to shut down? And what is the B 1 459 fault code I am getting???


Thanks!

Plutoe

We love guys like you just throw money at the car before you know whts wrong---Good show

1234=sun sensor--effects fan speed
1416=coolant circulation pump---you lost a heating feature
1459=serial interface connection to IC--something isn't being reported to controller

You have given us bad data we need the actual values for when number 7 was 14

My suggestion is to clear the faults and redo the test with number 7 at 14 bar and post that data!!

roguewrester

Haven't really thrown any money at the problem other than 2 cans of 234.


Here are my updated numbers.


1- 109
2- 69
3- 94
4- 94
5- 87
6- 145
7- 14
8- 129


Also, I 416, is that something I can fix myself?


Thanks

Plutoe

1416 is a simple DIY---that's a good fall project because it effects the rec heating feature(see button/owners manual) nothing to do with AC

The more pressing issue is the AC and for the most part is not a DIY unless you consider a DIY pouring more refrig down the drain!!

If it were me I would be concerned with 5(evap temp) and 7(refrig pressure)

5 should be 41F and 7 should be 17 and with 7 at 17; 8 should be 149

The other issue is that 3 and 4 at 94 is way to high should be in the 60's--the duovalve may be open however when in AC mode should be closed and not allowing hot engine coolant to circulate thus taking away the cooling efficiency.

If the system is not full I would first add more refrig to get the pressure up to 17 and once there run for awhile and thake more actual values, but go to 10 as that is the blower voltage value.

This also assumes the EC light is off and you have a set of gauges on the high and low side to confirm that you have not overfilled to get 17

Needleroozer

1999 E320, EC light is on and won't turn off. Sensor readings and error codes point to bad evap temp sensor and no Freon, confirmed by local garage. Local garage wants a fortune for evap temp sensor so I'm doing that myself. They also reported they were unable to turn the compressor by hand and concluded I need a new one - again for a small fortune (i.e., they're asking almost twice for the part alone what I can get it for at an auto parts store).

So my quick questions are 1) Without Freon in the system can they tell it's a bad compressor just by trying to turn it by hand? 2) What's a fair price to pay for a new compressor, accumulator, and Freon charge? 3) What's the standard hours for compressor/accumulator replacement?

fabbrisd1

The China Evap sensor is cheap - with shipping $14-$18:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pn....bbkaAu7R8P8HAQ

Parts wise - Compressor, Drier, possibly Expansion valve, Oil, O-Rings - you can buy a "kit" package from eBay or Amazon:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-A-C-COMP...VXDT7T&vxp=mtr

Note - the drier design has been updated - and in addition to the parts above you MUST have a new drier hose:

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/2108304615

All this is very straight forward for any competent auto air con shop - actual time 2-3 shop hours - many will decide not to bother with the expansion valve unless after they bought everything back it's not cooling well.

deeamori

Hi, I have a 2009 mercedes benz c300. Last week the battery was dead, so I tried to jump the car, it gave a little to no life, so I went out and bought a new battery. When i set up everything and turned the car on I noticed that the air conditioning wasnt flowing, it has power when it is turned on though, and the A/c tube that runs through the car gets cold, but it isnt blowing out any air. whats the problem?

Needleroozer

Sounds like your blower regulator has failed, a common problem (mine failed, too).
First, run through a diagnostic to make sure nothing else is wrong with the A/C. The instructions can be found in this very helpful site: http://www.eclassbenz.com/2010/02/ho...-malfunctions/
As for the blower regulator, you can find replacement instructions here: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-diy-here.html

Oh, I just realized you have a C300. This is the E class W210 forum. Still, the above advice may be helpful if not specific for your car.

Coled1001

Hey guys hope all are well was hoping to get some insight on my ac issues with my 97 E 420 with 45000 original miles on it- I have been reading the stickies about AC issues so I decided to run the diagnostics and then post and see what you guys thought prior to going to the Indy-
Heres what I found on the codes
Got a 1227- outside temp indicator
1235- Series Interface K1 connection to Instrument cluster-
cleared these codes they never came back

I ran the other diagnostics and got this: all converted to fahreinheit
1- 84.2
2-80.6
3-87.8
4-87.8
5- 86
6-143.6
7-00
8-80.6
outside temperature is 84-- My compressor is not engaging and my EC light is not in the stuck "ON" position - Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciate- Thanks Cole ( PS I reposted as I realized I had posted in the wrong spot

Coled1001

Sorry 1235 is Emissions Sensor B31 and I had a 1422 code which is the K1 instrument cluster - thanks Cole

blackshaw

3 - 98
4 - 98
5 - 96
6 - 172
7 - 01
8 - 85
9 - 27
10 - 1.3
11 - 2.3
12 - 4.3
20 - 3.2
21 -46 or 255
22 - 00
23 - 32
24 - 13.3
40 - 164
41 - 91
42 - 104
43 - 136


B1416 – Coolant circulation pump (M13)
B1419 – Electromagnetic clutch (A9k1)
B1459 – Series interface (K2) connection to instrument cluster (
B1234 – Sun sensor (B32)



Here are the results from my on board Monitoring or Diagnostic System. There were a couple of more I forgot I think it was one of the sensor codes. Possibly [B1230 – Evaporator temperature sensor (B10/6)]
I cleared them and I am going on a long drive today to my drilling rig so I will check them again when I get there to be sure. Pretty sure the clutch code is because I had a poor connection and it wasnt receving or showing the correct voltage which I fixed for now. I changed my expansion valve and there has been no improvements. My carsoft diagnostic software continues to throw code P20ce / Cooling system pressure to high ( Airco). I tried putting a couple cans of freon in today with my manifold gauges and I finally saw the Clutch come on for a few moments. Once the clutch shutoff it didn't start working again.. there is a possible blown fuse I am going to check for next. I wanted to see if I could get it to do anything at all before I go rent a vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on it. It builds up so much pressure so quickly that I can barely even get the freon to go in it. I dont believe I have any leaks, but I am not 100% positive on that yet. I want to check on my duovalve next and make sure it isn't stuck shut creating the pressure build up just in case. I guess it is also possible from what I have been reading on here that my evap temperature sensor could be faulty. Any advice you all could share with me would be awesome!

kajtek1

For full troubleshooting you will need to read the sensors at least 1 more time in the morning before engine start and before sun will warm up the cabin.
But from what you already have - you can ignore coolant pump and sun sensor for AC (fix the pump for heating season).
Check your connections at instrument cluster, clutch and evaporator.
Your system at 1 bar is almost empty. Once you get the above check and errors cleared - put a can of r134 with dye in it and nothing else.

Plutoe

You have been reading to much non sense over at Bens Wurld, The Duovalve has nothing to do with the refrigerant system. The duovalve is located within the heating system. My suggestion is keep pumping oil and leave the AC system to professionals with the skills and tools.

allaboutthebenz

Hi all, I have a 2000 E320 that seems to have a chronic A/C problem that just won't go away. The A/C starts cold then the EC light goes on after 10 minutes of driving. I payed a local mechanic $1200 to replace the condensor, replace a couple of belts, replace the blower motor, replace the A/C pressure switch, replace the blower motor resistor, replace the drier to expansion valve hose, and vacuum and recharge the system several times.

Here are my climate control code readings...

Engine off:
1 - 120
2 - 94
3 - 91
4 - 91
5 - 94
6 - 89
7 - 07
8 - 89
9 - 27
10 - 1.3
11 - 2.2
12 - 3.2
20 - 3.2
21 - 32
22 - 00
23 - 32
24 - 11.6
40 - 164
41 - 85
42 - 104
43 - 136

Engine idle after 5 minutes with A/C on max:
1 - 107
2 - 105
3 - 60
4 - 57
5 - 51
6 - 188
7 - 07
8 - 141
9 - 27
10 - 2.0
11 - 2.1
12 - 0.8
20 - 3.2
21 - 42
22 - 00
23 - 32
24 - 13.5
40 - 164
41 - 85
42 - 104
43 - 136

Before I brought it to the mechanic I got some error codes like B1241 and B1234. After the mechanic worked on it the EC light goes on still but when I look at the error codes there is only "E FF". I can clear the code and turn the EC light off. Another thing to note is when I'm parked for 40+ minutes the A/C blows cold on the passenger side and switches between warm and less warm on the driver side. The #7 pressure reading never goes above 07 and drops down to 03 when I'm driving. The mechanic says the pressure is good when tested with the charging station.

Any advice you can give would be great. The sad thing is I was willing to pay the mechanic more money (to an extent) to fix the A/C but he has given up on it.

Tall Giraffe

B1241 is low refrigerant. pressure from the compressor should be higher output. Why wasn't the dryer replaced when the condenser was replaced?

allaboutthebenz

I don't know. Should it have been?

Tall Giraffe

Opening the system like that, yes they should have replaced the dryer.

allaboutthebenz

What should I do now? I imagine this is something I need to bring to the shop for. I'm not DIYing this any further than putting some refrigerant in so I guess I need to bring it to another shop and tell them that's what I read on a forum.

Tall Giraffe

Are you hearing any hissing?

I think you should start with the basics. Run some dye in the system and check for leaks. Or have a shop perform this with a sniffer. If there is a leak pray its in NOT in front of the firewall.

I read depending on outside ambient temp #7, you should have between 7-20 bar pressure 17-20 on higher end when idle or stopped and it drops on the move down to 7-10ish as air goes through the condenser #3 & #4 should be 35-40 and that number can fluctuate too.

I recently replaced my entire system, including the dreaded Evap, so there are my number range from a brand new system.

Find a competent Independent MB shop.

allaboutthebenz

There is a hissing sound that seems to get louder as the air gets cooler.

The mechanic ran the sniffer over the ac system and found leaks in the condenser and the dryer to expansion valve hose which he since replaced.

The mechanic said the evaporator is fine but who knows if he knew for sure.

Thanks for your help.

How much did it cost to replace the entire a/c? How much of that was the evaporator? I can’t imagine spending more money than what my car is worth.