First problem with my 210

All the lights came on, 3 warnings about ABS, low voltage warning, then shut down. Called raodside assistance, replaced the battery (had original battery since I purchased new in 2002), but I was warned that it was probably the alternator. It died again (I was traveling from PA to GA) after 90 minutes.
I waited about 15 min and was able to restart the car and travel for about a mile, then died. Repeat for two or three more times, then had the car towed. I recharged the battery and now it cranks, but won't turn over.
Before I take it to the shop, any ideas on what isd wrong? Did I kill it?

1 Alternator OR Voltage regulator..Most of time I see the Voltage regulator die
ask the shop to test the charging system to see if its the alternator OR the regulator....And NOT just changing the alternator for More $
The NO Turn over ..you are saying it wont start..but cranks over
I Hope the key was off when you charged the battery...also Did you JUMP start it? Voltage Spikes can do a LOT of Damage...Does it start when it cools down ?
It might be as simple as a Crankshaft position sensor

Hopefully Ohlord will chime in with some wisdom.
Thanks.
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Still, curious about the "key-in" thing.
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...worst case scenario if it turning but not starting than it is problem with fuel pump which is not delivering fuel.
ps check for loose connection on both alternator and starter .if you manage to start car get voltmeter and take reading if it is around 14 v than alternator is charging if not than replace it regulator all whole unit.
I second Mark Cummins on the voltage regulator. I had the exact same problem last year. Replaced battery twice, died on street, towed to dealer and diagnosed with bad voltage regulator.
I don't know how hard it is to replace but was told that it is not expensive and located around the alternator.
Tom
Most people use the words "crank" and "turn over" to mean the same thing. Do you mean it will crank but not fire and then start?
Anyone test to see if the charging system and the new battery are operating properly that the CPS has not failed completely? Thus the cranking but no start issue. Totally failed CPS engine cranks but fuel don't flow.
And you don't go.
Bad alternator or bad voltage regulator it would be ruled out either if you just charged the new battery overnight with a 10 amp charger to the under hood charging post.If it starts and your alternator warning light comes on then you know it is the alternator or the vr.
You already know the battery is good it is brand new.
ruling out those 3 items would lead you to the cps and for 60 bucks at autohausaz.com and the diy on mercedesshop.com you could avoid a trip to the shop.

There is no reference to what the fuse is for. It is a small group of fuses in the ECU compartment. Anyone know where I can get a reference for those fuses?
Anyway, the voltage showed 10.7 at idle, and 7.6 when it went over 2k rev/second. I'll be replacing the alternator shortly and will go from there. At least I feel better now that I managed to get it started.

Thanks everyone for the advice.


Turns out the clean-up and fix of the leak was a minor thing (cost me $200), but the real problem is the hard shift from first gear. The car has been put through the diagnostics machine, checked by various MB mechanics, and still no one knows what the problem is.
Looks like I'm headed to a tranny replacement on a car with barely 60K miles on it that I've had since new and babied.
Definately not what I expect from a high end car. I didn't mind an alternator going bad, or some other miscellaneous part...but a TRANSMISSION???
I'm gonna fix it, sell it, and buy a Lexus or Infinity. Then as soon as the 100k mile warranty is about to end on my 2006 R-Class, I'm selling it no matter how much I loose on the deal.
End of rant, and end of MB for me.
don't give up so quick.
Turns out the clean-up and fix of the leak was a minor thing (cost me $200), but the real problem is the hard shift from first gear. The car has been put through the diagnostics machine, checked by various MB mechanics, and still no one knows what the problem is.
Looks like I'm headed to a tranny replacement on a car with barely 60K miles on it that I've had since new and babied.
Definately not what I expect from a high end car. I didn't mind an alternator going bad, or some other miscellaneous part...but a TRANSMISSION???
I'm gonna fix it, sell it, and buy a Lexus or Infinity. Then as soon as the 100k mile warranty is about to end on my 2006 R-Class, I'm selling it no matter how much I loose on the deal.
End of rant, and end of MB for me.
Per above 20 bucks in parts and the diy o ring /connector fix and you could have done the job.
Don't you diy?or do you take it to the dealer for every job?
Reset the transmission adaptation and see if that solves the shift issue.
Have you had or will you be changing the trans fluid and filter?MB only 722.6 fluid,please
At 60k that alone can cause above mentioned problems.
I have the dip sticks if you want to diy the job.
Wean yourself from the dealer.
BTW other cars have issues also,so don't be so quick to jump ship(cars)
.
Reset the transmission adaptation and see if that solves the shift issue.
Have you had or will you be changing the trans fluid and filter?MB only 722.6 fluid,please
At 60k that alone can cause above mentioned problems.
I have the dip sticks if you want to diy the job.
Wean yourself from the dealer.
Try this first. It's possible you need to clean the TCU unit with electronics cleaner, but if the only symptoms are a hard 1/2 shift, it's probably because your fluid is 8 years old, as if the mileage wasn't enough on its own.

My son-in-law, who is a mechanic but inexperienced in MB, has taken the car to three different shops and they all say the same.
I have tried resetting the adaptations and all the rest.
Finally, large quantities of metal shavings were found and the tranny needs replacement, $3200. Thats cutting off my nose alright!!!
Replacing an alternator?: No problem.
Replacing any other minor part?: No problem.
A tranny on a $50k car with only 60K miles?: Unacceptable.
Tranny fluid change is the problem? Please! Nissan, 120k miles, never changed the trans fluid. Chevy, changed trans fluid at 85k miles, never a problem. MB requires a fluid change at 60k miles? Unacceptable.
Maybe I'm over reacting, I can admit that. But only an MB bigot doesn't see a problem with this. Only an MB bigot can think that the ONLY problem has to be the shops or the car owner, it SURELY can't be the car!
The only problem you see is that I paid too much for a particular job. Nice.
Personally, Im with you on how dissapointing 722.6 MB trans has been.
First off , it was advertised as a LIFETIME FLUID- no need of any servicing yada yada yada.. , then a bunch of the these 5 speeds started to seize. Next thing we hear MB recommends a fluid change every 60k , no longer consider a LIFETIME fluid...what a joke!!!!!
Wouldnt you think after MB realized they F' up that they stand by their product and extend/offer a 100k warranty on the gearbox and as a courtesy do the 1st trans service on these 5 speeds matics for free/complimentary- tab on them, NOOOOO!. Would have been a nice marketing, PR move, wouldnt it? but they still had the audacity to bill the customer for the service...Yes, I dont blame you that you are sick and tired of MB...best of luck
My son-in-law, who is a mechanic but inexperienced in MB, has taken the car to three different shops and they all say the same.
I have tried resetting the adaptations and all the rest.
Finally, large quantities of metal shavings were found and the tranny needs replacement, $3200. Thats cutting off my nose alright!!!
Replacing an alternator?: No problem.
Replacing any other minor part?: No problem.
A tranny on a $50k car with only 60K miles?: Unacceptable.
Tranny fluid change is the problem? Please! Nissan, 120k miles, never changed the trans fluid. Chevy, changed trans fluid at 85k miles, never a problem. MB requires a fluid change at 60k miles? Unacceptable.
Maybe I'm over reacting, I can admit that. But only an MB bigot doesn't see a problem with this. Only an MB bigot can think that the ONLY problem has to be the shops or the car owner, it SURELY can't be the car!
The only problem you see is that I paid too much for a particular job. Nice.
She could have bought 3 different disposable used E or S or C class....whatever, for less than the cost of the extremely reliable 430 Lexus. She gave up the lease and the $37000 she still owed after the 3 year lease and bought a w211 with 50000m For $16000. FYI her previous cars were 560sl/e320/s500


