f-rod

Already posted on the "other" forum.

All the lights came on, 3 warnings about ABS, low voltage warning, then shut down. Called raodside assistance, replaced the battery (had original battery since I purchased new in 2002), but I was warned that it was probably the alternator. It died again (I was traveling from PA to GA) after 90 minutes.

I waited about 15 min and was able to restart the car and travel for about a mile, then died. Repeat for two or three more times, then had the car towed. I recharged the battery and now it cranks, but won't turn over.

Before I take it to the shop, any ideas on what isd wrong? Did I kill it?

Air Marshall Eldritch

I would suspect the alternator too, based on those symptoms.

f-rod

Wouldn't it turn over with a newly charged battery?

Air Marshall Eldritch

Maybe not. It depends on whether the battery is fully recharged. It's hard to say unless you have a code reader to troubleshoot it. I bet Ohlord will stumble in here shortly for some experienced advice. That is, unless he has hit the sauce early today.

MARK CUMMINS

You Might have several problems

1 Alternator OR Voltage regulator..Most of time I see the Voltage regulator die
ask the shop to test the charging system to see if its the alternator OR the regulator....And NOT just changing the alternator for More $

The NO Turn over ..you are saying it wont start..but cranks over
I Hope the key was off when you charged the battery...also Did you JUMP start it? Voltage Spikes can do a LOT of Damage...Does it start when it cools down ?

It might be as simple as a Crankshaft position sensor

f-rod

It is fully charged. I'm concerned that something else may be wrong BESIDES the alternator.

Hopefully Ohlord will chime in with some wisdom.

Thanks.

f-rod

Don't remember if the key was in or not. What can happen?

f-rod

By the way, I used a battery pack to try and start it before re-charging the battery, the same as the roadside assistance guy did, and still wouldn't turn over. So I don't think the charging is what did it. Of course, I could be wrong...I remember that hapening once before :-)

Still, curious about the "key-in" thing.

e320avangarde

problem with starter if wont start and alternator too for later on.

...worst case scenario if it turning but not starting than it is problem with fuel pump which is not delivering fuel.


ps check for loose connection on both alternator and starter .if you manage to start car get voltmeter and take reading if it is around 14 v than alternator is charging if not than replace it regulator all whole unit.

pdttm

F Rod,

I second Mark Cummins on the voltage regulator. I had the exact same problem last year. Replaced battery twice, died on street, towed to dealer and diagnosed with bad voltage regulator.

I don't know how hard it is to replace but was told that it is not expensive and located around the alternator.

Tom

Figuero

I recharged the battery and now it cranks, but won't turn over.

Most people use the words "crank" and "turn over" to mean the same thing. Do you mean it will crank but not fire and then start?

ohlord

run a test of the charging system.
Anyone test to see if the charging system and the new battery are operating properly that the CPS has not failed completely? Thus the cranking but no start issue. Totally failed CPS engine cranks but fuel don't flow.And you don't go.

Bad alternator or bad voltage regulator it would be ruled out either if you just charged the new battery overnight with a 10 amp charger to the under hood charging post.If it starts and your alternator warning light comes on then you know it is the alternator or the vr.

You already know the battery is good it is brand new.

ruling out those 3 items would lead you to the cps and for 60 bucks at autohausaz.com and the diy on mercedesshop.com you could avoid a trip to the shop.

f-rod

The battery was fully charged, so I started looking around and found a burned fuse, replaced it and the car started. I thought it was the fuel pump fuse, but that one is #6 under the rear seat.

There is no reference to what the fuse is for. It is a small group of fuses in the ECU compartment. Anyone know where I can get a reference for those fuses?

Anyway, the voltage showed 10.7 at idle, and 7.6 when it went over 2k rev/second. I'll be replacing the alternator shortly and will go from there. At least I feel better now that I managed to get it started.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

f-rod

Replaced alt, all the warnings are gone. Only thing now is what I can only describe as a "tug" or a "hiccup" at take-off, after that it rides normal.

f-rod

There was a leak around the tranny and the computer was soaked with oil.

Turns out the clean-up and fix of the leak was a minor thing (cost me $200), but the real problem is the hard shift from first gear. The car has been put through the diagnostics machine, checked by various MB mechanics, and still no one knows what the problem is.

Looks like I'm headed to a tranny replacement on a car with barely 60K miles on it that I've had since new and babied.

Definately not what I expect from a high end car. I didn't mind an alternator going bad, or some other miscellaneous part...but a TRANSMISSION???

I'm gonna fix it, sell it, and buy a Lexus or Infinity. Then as soon as the 100k mile warranty is about to end on my 2006 R-Class, I'm selling it no matter how much I loose on the deal.

End of rant, and end of MB for me.

Hirnbeiss

[QUOTE=f-rod;3483731]I'm gonna fix it, sell it, and buy a Lexus or Infinity. QUOTE]

Cut off nose to spite face.

tirona

just put the tranny in "w" mode, it will start on second gear and you won't have to worry about the harsh shift from first gear. most likely you don't need a new tranny, yours is probably fine. you need to find a good indie with sds. when you are talking about the tranny leak, did they just replace the plug connector and clean the area with electronics cleaner and let it dry? the plug connector costs only $10, so i don't understand why they charged you $200. be careful to where you take your car, a lot of people end up spending thousands of dollars for something that should have costed them 10x less.
don't give up so quick.

jagass

Yeah...Maybe because of the alternator too...lol

MR888

This is your first problem with a car you've had for 7 years and you are ready to give up on the brand? lol

ejsheltra

Some people give up on life too quickly. Success is taking that one extra step when we thought we could not do it any more .

ohlord

is only when you don't get up off the floor.
Per above 20 bucks in parts and the diy o ring /connector fix and you could have done the job.
Don't you diy?or do you take it to the dealer for every job?
Reset the transmission adaptation and see if that solves the shift issue.
Have you had or will you be changing the trans fluid and filter?MB only 722.6 fluid,please
At 60k that alone can cause above mentioned problems.
I have the dip sticks if you want to diy the job.
Wean yourself from the dealer.
BTW other cars have issues also,so don't be so quick to jump ship(cars).

saintz

Exactly what I was going to say. You need to find a new tech. And you need to change the tranny oil and filter. About $100 and an hour of time with simple hand tools. Or pay about triple that and a shop can do it for you (for some, well worth it).

Try this first. It's possible you need to clean the TCU unit with electronics cleaner, but if the only symptoms are a hard 1/2 shift, it's probably because your fluid is 8 years old, as if the mileage wasn't enough on its own.

f-rod

I'm in PA and the car is in GA, $200 seems reasonable to me. I had planned DIY'ing it, but given the circumstance I don't see the problem.

My son-in-law, who is a mechanic but inexperienced in MB, has taken the car to three different shops and they all say the same.

I have tried resetting the adaptations and all the rest.

Finally, large quantities of metal shavings were found and the tranny needs replacement, $3200. Thats cutting off my nose alright!!!

Replacing an alternator?: No problem.

Replacing any other minor part?: No problem.

A tranny on a $50k car with only 60K miles?: Unacceptable.

Tranny fluid change is the problem? Please! Nissan, 120k miles, never changed the trans fluid. Chevy, changed trans fluid at 85k miles, never a problem. MB requires a fluid change at 60k miles? Unacceptable.

Maybe I'm over reacting, I can admit that. But only an MB bigot doesn't see a problem with this. Only an MB bigot can think that the ONLY problem has to be the shops or the car owner, it SURELY can't be the car!
The only problem you see is that I paid too much for a particular job. Nice.

martz

hahaha F rod you sure shut up everyone with your response.
Personally, Im with you on how dissapointing 722.6 MB trans has been.
First off , it was advertised as a LIFETIME FLUID- no need of any servicing yada yada yada.. , then a bunch of the these 5 speeds started to seize. Next thing we hear MB recommends a fluid change every 60k , no longer consider a LIFETIME fluid...what a joke!!!!!
Wouldnt you think after MB realized they F' up that they stand by their product and extend/offer a 100k warranty on the gearbox and as a courtesy do the 1st trans service on these 5 speeds matics for free/complimentary- tab on them, NOOOOO!. Would have been a nice marketing, PR move, wouldnt it? but they still had the audacity to bill the customer for the service...Yes, I dont blame you that you are sick and tired of MB...best of luck

SLOPESTAR

Go lease something!? When it comes time to buy after 3 years, let us know how great that car is/was. If its a 430 Lexus like my mother in law's, you'll find it is everything an E-class 210/211 is/was (exact copy of a 210 body style b.t.w.) except for the price tag that is higher than an E-class, and you get the pleasure of driving a glorified Toyota. She could have bought 3 different disposable used E or S or C class....whatever, for less than the cost of the extremely reliable 430 Lexus. She gave up the lease and the $37000 she still owed after the 3 year lease and bought a w211 with 50000m For $16000. FYI her previous cars were 560sl/e320/s500