BAS/ASR/Skid Light 1998 E320
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E320 1998
BAS/ASR/Skid Light 1998 E320
I had my BAS and ASR light come on my 1998 E320. I asked around and found out my Brake Lamp Switch might be faulty. I replaced the Brake Lamp Switch. Now once I hit the brakes, I get not only the BAS and ASR lights on the dash, but also a Skid light pops up. I believe these are all connected in some way to the Brake Lamp Switch. Will resetting the computer do the job??? Or do I need to check a different problem? Any help would be great. Thank You.
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I had my BAS and ASR light come on my 1998 E320. I asked around and found out my Brake Lamp Switch might be faulty. I replaced the Brake Lamp Switch. Now once I hit the brakes, I get not only the BAS and ASR lights on the dash, but also a Skid light pops up. I believe these are all connected in some way to the Brake Lamp Switch. Will resetting the computer do the job??? Or do I need to check a different problem? Any help would be great. Thank You.
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E320 1998
Yes I did. I turned the car on. Left in park and turned steering wheel all the way left, then all the way right. Is there a particular amount of time I should hold the steering wheel in place? Do I turn the car on or just turn the ignition switch to the on position? Thanks for you help.
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E Class W210 250 Diesel
Hi I had the same problem for some time (over a year), Mercedes Benz STAR diagnostics kept coming up with brake light switch problem. WRONG, I found the fix myself the fault was a simple dry joint.
Under the hood there is a black plastic cover where the plugin modules are (not the fuse box) there is a small module at one at one end, with fuses in the top, simply unplug this open it up and resolder the joints, my problem was a dry joint on a diode, if you are unsure, solder all joints, and that should be it... Simple eh!!
Under the hood there is a black plastic cover where the plugin modules are (not the fuse box) there is a small module at one at one end, with fuses in the top, simply unplug this open it up and resolder the joints, my problem was a dry joint on a diode, if you are unsure, solder all joints, and that should be it... Simple eh!!
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Joined: Jun 2009
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E320 1998
Thanks
Hi I had the same problem for some time (over a year), Mercedes Benz STAR diagnostics kept coming up with brake light switch problem. WRONG, I found the fix myself the fault was a simple dry joint.
Under the hood there is a black plastic cover where the plugin modules are (not the fuse box) there is a small module at one at one end, with fuses in the top, simply unplug this open it up and resolder the joints, my problem was a dry joint on a diode, if you are unsure, solder all joints, and that should be it... Simple eh!!
Under the hood there is a black plastic cover where the plugin modules are (not the fuse box) there is a small module at one at one end, with fuses in the top, simply unplug this open it up and resolder the joints, my problem was a dry joint on a diode, if you are unsure, solder all joints, and that should be it... Simple eh!!
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Thanks everyone for your contributions. I had the BAS/ASR issue appear and discovered the BLS issue here in the forums. After replacing my switch the problem did not go away. I went and read more and found in another thread that I had installed the switch incorrectly.
This one important step does not appear in this thread. The BLS switch shaft needs to be fully extended before installing the switch. There is a ratcheting mechanism in the switch that adjusts it to the proper length. Pulling out the shaft fully extends the ratchet mechanism and inserting it into the mounting bracket will cause the excessive length to ratchet to the right length. You will hear and/or feel it when putting the switch in the mounting bracket. After correcting this it seems to have corrected the issue.
I was fully prepared to start looking for cold solder joints, but it looks like I got lucky.
Edit: Well, wasn't lucky. Looking for the solder joint issue now. Not sure if I have the right panel. Davidholman, can you post a picture of the panel you are speaking of?
This one important step does not appear in this thread. The BLS switch shaft needs to be fully extended before installing the switch. There is a ratcheting mechanism in the switch that adjusts it to the proper length. Pulling out the shaft fully extends the ratchet mechanism and inserting it into the mounting bracket will cause the excessive length to ratchet to the right length. You will hear and/or feel it when putting the switch in the mounting bracket. After correcting this it seems to have corrected the issue.
I was fully prepared to start looking for cold solder joints, but it looks like I got lucky.
Edit: Well, wasn't lucky. Looking for the solder joint issue now. Not sure if I have the right panel. Davidholman, can you post a picture of the panel you are speaking of?
Last edited by richyoung; Dec 1, 2012 at 09:33 AM. Reason: additional info
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