tirona

haha. every autoparts store sells the coolant testers, actually i bought mine at wal-mart. i have the prestone one, i think it was around $3 http://www.prestone.com/products/pri...Tester&regTM=1

Musikmann

Many thanks tirona!

tirona

you are very welcome

Red66GT

That tester only tells the boiling point and freezing point for your current "mix". I found some ph level test strips that determine alkalinity and acidity. Is this what you others are talking about? I dont see how the turkey baster type can tell if your coolant is "good" or needs to be replaced.

RichardM98

Red, you are correct that these testers only tell you the approximate ratio of gycol to water. That determines the freezing point and boiling point of the coolant. Whether the necessary corrosion inhibitors are present would require a lot more chemical analysis. Manufacturers predict about how fast those degrade and then recommend a service cycle which replaces them in time. Hence the 3 year change out.

With the W211, MB changed the cycle from 3 years to 15 years using the same antifreeze fluid. Seems like something must have changed in the cooling system. If not, maybe we (W210) can go longer as well.

MBtech1098

In reality you can go as long as you want...as long as you check it and it passes, you are good to go.

Red66GT

Thanks Richard. So I guess the big question now is what did they change in 2011 that made them lengthen the amount of time for replacement?

MBTech....as long as it passes what?

RichardM98

Well, I had a thought last night. The thinnest heat exchange surfaces are the radiator and heater core. If those (or maybe only the radiator) were changed from metal to plastic that would shift any corrosion issues to the engine. A few mils per year in the engine wouldn't be too much of an issue. I know MB and others have been using plastic radiator side tanks for a few years. Just speculating.

MBtech1098

Both the 210 and 211 have plastic tanks on the sides of the radiator.

As far as testing; hydrometer test-tells the freezing point, and the test strips, which can give you a pH reading.

RC46

I bought a 97 that had sat in a garage untouched for 11 years. Anyone have any suggestions as to fluid changes all around?

• Coolant
• Engine Oil
• Trans Fluid.

The vehicle had an oil change just before it was retired (have paperwork)
I had to drain the Window Washer reservoir because there was rubber deteriorated inside. When I picked some out it felt like jello and disintegrated in the fingers. I took the reservoir out of the car, scrubbed it out, and reinstalled it. Needs new washer fluid also now. Is any washer fluid acceptable, or is there a recommendation for that too. Thanks.
Cant wait to start motoring!!

Red66GT

RC: Don't forget to flush your brake fluid as well. Moisture builds up and will corrode seals and metal brake parts. Look for leaks around your caliper pistons.....

RC46

Should I replace all the fluids I mentioned? I am really looking for advice. This MB is a new venture. Every other vehicle I have owned and maintained had no where near the rigid guidelines as this make. So I want to do it right and make it last.

Plutoe

If it were mine, I would change all the fluids and follow the individual mfg's recommendations. That is an unbelievable find.

admiral brows

i had my cooling system flushed and use some beck arnley pink stuff should i get it changed again?

Plutoe

Did it meet the MB spec?? If not and it were mine, I would ask myself--self why did I do that again.